Steering Gear removal ?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 433
Likes: 14
From: GA
Steering Gear removal ?
I'm removing the steering 'linkage' from my '71 sb with p/s, mainly because I'd don't want to use pullers from under the car, and to detail.
If I remove the pinch bolt from the steering column side and the flange bolts will this allow the gear to drop after removing the mounting bolts, idler bolts and p/s clylinder bracket ??
Thanks
Jim
If I remove the pinch bolt from the steering column side and the flange bolts will this allow the gear to drop after removing the mounting bolts, idler bolts and p/s clylinder bracket ??
Thanks
Jim
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,154
Likes: 3,959
From: Connecticut, USA
Jim,
The hardest part of the removal is usually carefully removing the pitman arm from the control valve without wrecking the rubber boot. If the pickle fork is use it will work but wreck the boot. A puller is better but you have to work in a spot for it to do the job. You could drop the box and valve I suppose.
Removing the pinch bolt is required when removing the rag joint or unscrewing the valve off the center link. Be very careful you don't apply too much upward pressure on the upper rag flange or you'll cause the column to collapse. If fact mark the column to see if it does move before you start.
With the joint and valve free only the 3 bolts through the frame hold the box on.
Good luck,
Gary
The hardest part of the removal is usually carefully removing the pitman arm from the control valve without wrecking the rubber boot. If the pickle fork is use it will work but wreck the boot. A puller is better but you have to work in a spot for it to do the job. You could drop the box and valve I suppose.
Removing the pinch bolt is required when removing the rag joint or unscrewing the valve off the center link. Be very careful you don't apply too much upward pressure on the upper rag flange or you'll cause the column to collapse. If fact mark the column to see if it does move before you start.
With the joint and valve free only the 3 bolts through the frame hold the box on.
Good luck,
Gary
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 433
Likes: 14
From: GA
Gary
That's where my problem is, removing the control valve from the pittman arm. I'm replacing it all with VBP parts so not concerned with the seals. My concern was, I was putting alot of torque on the puller and cv wouldn't pop off, and the awkward position of the puller. I want to get it all off and out from under the car, then it's just a few minutes with a puller and impact wrench.
I removed the pinch bolt and the bolts from the flange and was able to slide "half" of the rag joint up the shaft to clear the safety pins. I should be able to drop the linkage now.
Thanks
Jim
That's where my problem is, removing the control valve from the pittman arm. I'm replacing it all with VBP parts so not concerned with the seals. My concern was, I was putting alot of torque on the puller and cv wouldn't pop off, and the awkward position of the puller. I want to get it all off and out from under the car, then it's just a few minutes with a puller and impact wrench.
I removed the pinch bolt and the bolts from the flange and was able to slide "half" of the rag joint up the shaft to clear the safety pins. I should be able to drop the linkage now.
Thanks
Jim
