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The drivers side door seems to sag on my 76 when I open it. I have to close the door pretty hard to get it to line up. The door won't line up and close if I don't push hard enough. Any ideas on what to look for? The car's going to paint in January, I'd like to fix this before I have to pay extra. Thanks
The drivers side door seems to sag on my 76 when I open it. I have to close the door pretty hard to get it to line up. The door won't line up and close if I don't push hard enough. Any ideas on what to look for? The car's going to paint in January, I'd like to fix this before I have to pay extra. Thanks
Probably worn out hinge pins and/or bushings - grab the door at the end and lift - if it moves up and down, you found it. There are many references as to how to do this without removing the doors.
trick to replacing the bushings/pins...... cut the old pin of you can't get it to pass the fender....then the new pin, grind part of the flat top off so you can clear the fender when install....... don't take the hinges off...it just makes for a headacne later...... you can shim later but it's a pain to try to hang a door and bolt the hinges on at the same time.....
Yeh, if I pick up the back of the door near the handle, the front end jiggles up and down. Guess I'll have to order some bushings and pins. Anyone have a link to some instructions? Thanks
To add to what others have said, you can pick up standard bushings at any GM dealer. I am pretty sure that Chevy, Buick, Olds, etc all use the same bushing.
most Gm dealerships carry the pins and bushings. the pins may be a little longer than what you need, but a hacksaw/cutoff blade will remedy that, then bevel the edges slightly to help the pins slide thru. I also found it helpful to put a couple layers of tape on the fender edge, above the upper hinge for protection. then you can shim the door hinges for better door/body alignment. be sure and do the passenger door also, it may not need it, but it doesn't take much effort to do the pass. door, and then you can shim it for alignment.
I got mine from the "Help!" section at the parts store - my old pins were fine, but the top hinge was egged from opening and closing the door with bad bushings. The "Help!" kit came with oversize bushings and regular bushings (and a horrifyingly over-long pin) - the oversize went in the top hinge, the regulars went in the bottom, and the old pins were tapped back in. Everything is fine now.
If you have a noticable droop in the door, you'll probably need the oversize bushings for one of the hinges. Fix it now before you need to buy a new door latch...don't ask me how I know.
Guys,
I bought a kit from MAM, not very expensive, but I took the hinge off the car. I made up a "cup" out of MDF and a layer of carpet to fit under the bottom of the door, then put the jack under it (door open of course!) and lifted until the door moved up. It was a lot easier to put the new bush and pin in when mounted in the vise. I also thoroughly cleaned the hinge when separated and painted it with POR 15 before reinstalling. It looks a lot neater painted! My car will never get to Bloomington (without a tall snorkel, anyway) so I don't care about originality. When that hinge is tight, you can do the other one the same way. It is fiddly, but can be done without upsetting the door alignment. Be patient.