1979 Power Steering Pump Question
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,662
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From: Knoxville Tennessee
1979 Power Steering Pump Question
While working under my car I loosened the bolt on the back of the power steering pump that attaches the bracket to the pump and it started leaking. I tightened it back but it kept leaking. This is one component I haven't worked on and was wondering what would be causing this. Does the bolt actually go thru the pump into the resevior? Was it over full to begin with? Any help would be appreciated!
Bernie
Bernie
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Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Azusa California
Me too
Originally Posted by BerniesVette
While working under my car I loosened the bolt on the back of the power steering pump that attaches the bracket to the pump and it started leaking. I tightened it back but it kept leaking. This is one component I haven't worked on and was wondering what would be causing this. Does the bolt actually go thru the pump into the resevior? Was it over full to begin with? Any help would be appreciated!
Bernie
Bernie
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Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
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From: Saginaw Michigan
The back side of the corvette power steering pump has two studs that are threaded through the reservoir into the pump housing. There are o-rings sandwiched between the sheet metal reservoir and the pump housing. Torquing the studs to 25 foot-lbs causes the studs to press the sheet metal against the housing trapping the o-ring seal.
The following link takes you to a picture of the pump and various leak points.
http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/P-PumpLeakPoints.doc
The following link takes you to a picture of the pump and various leak points.
http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/P-PumpLeakPoints.doc
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,662
Likes: 8
From: Knoxville Tennessee
Jim,Thanks for the information. I was hoping I wouldn't have to replace my pump. My biggest question was why was there a bolt there instead of a stud. Evidently someone replaced it with a bolt. Thanks again!
Bernie
Bernie
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Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
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From: Saginaw Michigan
Bernie,
One of my problems is that a lot of people would probably call a stud a bolt without knowing the difference.
The production stud that should have been in the back of the pump would have had a flange that would have provided a large area to press the reservoir against the o-ring behind it. Since there is no pressure inside the reservoir, I would think that just replacing the bolt with the proper stud would reseal the area.
I don't remember what year Vette that you own. So just in case, just remember that the studs on the back of the Saginaw pumps changed from conventional threads (3/8-16 UNC) to metric (M16x1.5) in 1980.
Jim
One of my problems is that a lot of people would probably call a stud a bolt without knowing the difference.
The production stud that should have been in the back of the pump would have had a flange that would have provided a large area to press the reservoir against the o-ring behind it. Since there is no pressure inside the reservoir, I would think that just replacing the bolt with the proper stud would reseal the area.
I don't remember what year Vette that you own. So just in case, just remember that the studs on the back of the Saginaw pumps changed from conventional threads (3/8-16 UNC) to metric (M16x1.5) in 1980.
Jim
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From: ♫ ♪ ♫♫ ♪ ♫ ♪♪ ♫
Originally Posted by Jim Shea
The back side of the corvette power steering pump has two studs that are threaded through the reservoir into the pump housing. There are o-rings sandwiched between the sheet metal reservoir and the pump housing. Torquing the studs to 25 foot-lbs causes the studs to press the sheet metal against the housing trapping the o-ring seal.
The following link takes you to a picture of the pump and various leak points.
http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/P-PumpLeakPoints.doc
The following link takes you to a picture of the pump and various leak points.
http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/P-PumpLeakPoints.doc
To add;
A PS pump seal kit is only 15 bucks...only special tools needed are a pulley remover and installer (most can be "borrowed" from a parts store) if just re-sealing.
My 79 has teeth-marks on the pulley removal nose that obviously Bubba used a pipe-wrench to remove the pulley at some point.
Lots-0-Bubba's use the housing as a leverage point to tighten the belt.
That will distort the housing and can cause the large 0-ring to leak...usually aggitating drips.
The PS seal kit also has flat 0-rings, pay attention to location of flat vs. round 0-rings.
All "no-pressure oil retaining" seals can easily be replaced without a lot of experience...pretty straight forward.
If overhauling the Saginaw--it gets a lil trickier lining up the vanes in the housing correctly but still isnt very hard, actually; the hardest part is getting the pump to the bench to re-seal it.
From what you described; you inadvertly backed the stud threads out a lil bit from the actual pump itself (the studs hold the housing to the actual pump to make the seal) when removing the nuts.
Probably; you can just take things apart again and tighten the studs while under the hood and all will seal again, and then re-assemble with no leaks.
But; for 15 bucks---take it down...remove pump from housing, clean inside of housing, re-seal and re-assemble... then re-install.
You can even cheat--if you dont want to replace the pump shaft seal...no reason to even remove the pulley off the shaft at all...remove pump from under hood...remove hardware from back of pump housing (watch out for spring-loaded fitting)...take housing off of pump with pulley still on pump...rinse housing out and wipe grey/black gunk off of pump...r/r all seals (remember flat 0-rings? ..keep in mind; some ROUND 0-rings have gone flat...and some are actually FLAT...pay attention to the 0-ring fitting locations that have the actual FLAT 0-ring) and re-assemble...re-install.
A good cleaner to use is char-coal starter (its basically Varsol without dye added)...its cheap, squirts, self-contained and wont eat plastic or rubber if any is left...it also dries pretty quickly.
or add pump/pulley shaft seal r/r:
remove pulley with PROPER PS pump pulley remover...remove pump shaft seal and WASHER...install washer and press in new pump shaft seal with a seal driver or press
NOTE:
if done carefuly...a deep 3/4 inch,-half inch drive- impact socket will "press" the new seal in with light taps of a hammer (do it with housing OFF, back of pump on a piece of wood)...but, do it carefull paying attention to not installing at an angle....its also good to pass fine emery cloth over the pump shaft to clean up any nicks or debris BEFORE installing new pump shaft seal and washer...rinse shaft of debris...lube shaft and seal before installing.
Re-install pulley with PROPER pulley installer, it will install the pulley at the CORRECT depth (basically; flush or a lil more with pump shaft)
Hope this helps...its really a very simple fix.
Jim
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,507
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From: St. Louis Mo
Originally Posted by Strats-N-Vettes
To add;
A PS pump seal kit is only 15 bucks...only special tools needed are a pulley remover and installer (most can be "borrowed" from a parts store) if just re-sealing.
My 79 has teeth-marks on the pulley removal nose that obviously Bubba used a pipe-wrench to remove the pulley at some point.
Lots-0-Bubba's use the housing as a leverage point to tighten the belt.
That will distort the housing and can cause the large 0-ring to leak...usually aggitating drips.
The PS seal kit also has flat 0-rings, pay attention to location of flat vs. round 0-rings.
I bought a new power steering pump from Auto Zone for around $40.00, and if you will take your old one with you, they will take the pulley off and put it on the new one for free and only takes a couple of minutes...........LT
All "no-pressure oil retaining" seals can easily be replaced without a lot of experience...pretty straight forward.
If overhauling the Saginaw--it gets a lil trickier lining up the vanes in the housing correctly but still isnt very hard, actually; the hardest part is getting the pump to the bench to re-seal it.
From what you described; you inadvertly backed the stud threads out a lil bit from the actual pump itself (the studs hold the housing to the actual pump to make the seal) when removing the nuts.
Probably; you can just take things apart again and tighten the studs while under the hood and all will seal again, and then re-assemble with no leaks.
But; for 15 bucks---take it down...remove pump from housing, clean inside of housing, re-seal and re-assemble... then re-install.
You can even cheat--if you dont want to replace the pump shaft seal...no reason to even remove the pulley off the shaft at all...remove pump from under hood...remove hardware from back of pump housing (watch out for spring-loaded fitting)...take housing off of pump with pulley still on pump...rinse housing out and wipe grey/black gunk off of pump...r/r all seals (remember flat 0-rings? ..keep in mind; some ROUND 0-rings have gone flat...and some are actually FLAT...pay attention to the 0-ring fitting locations that have the actual FLAT 0-ring) and re-assemble...re-install.
A good cleaner to use is char-coal starter (its basically Varsol without dye added)...its cheap, squirts, self-contained and wont eat plastic or rubber if any is left...it also dries pretty quickly.
or add pump/pulley shaft seal r/r:
remove pulley with PROPER PS pump pulley remover...remove pump shaft seal and WASHER...install washer and press in new pump shaft seal with a seal driver or press
NOTE:
if done carefuly...a deep 3/4 inch,-half inch drive- impact socket will "press" the new seal in with light taps of a hammer (do it with housing OFF, back of pump on a piece of wood)...but, do it carefull paying attention to not installing at an angle....its also good to pass fine emery cloth over the pump shaft to clean up any nicks or debris BEFORE installing new pump shaft seal and washer...rinse shaft of debris...lube shaft and seal before installing.
Re-install pulley with PROPER pulley installer, it will install the pulley at the CORRECT depth (basically; flush or a lil more with pump shaft)
Hope this helps...its really a very simple fix.
Jim
A PS pump seal kit is only 15 bucks...only special tools needed are a pulley remover and installer (most can be "borrowed" from a parts store) if just re-sealing.
My 79 has teeth-marks on the pulley removal nose that obviously Bubba used a pipe-wrench to remove the pulley at some point.
Lots-0-Bubba's use the housing as a leverage point to tighten the belt.
That will distort the housing and can cause the large 0-ring to leak...usually aggitating drips.
The PS seal kit also has flat 0-rings, pay attention to location of flat vs. round 0-rings.
I bought a new power steering pump from Auto Zone for around $40.00, and if you will take your old one with you, they will take the pulley off and put it on the new one for free and only takes a couple of minutes...........LT
All "no-pressure oil retaining" seals can easily be replaced without a lot of experience...pretty straight forward.
If overhauling the Saginaw--it gets a lil trickier lining up the vanes in the housing correctly but still isnt very hard, actually; the hardest part is getting the pump to the bench to re-seal it.
From what you described; you inadvertly backed the stud threads out a lil bit from the actual pump itself (the studs hold the housing to the actual pump to make the seal) when removing the nuts.
Probably; you can just take things apart again and tighten the studs while under the hood and all will seal again, and then re-assemble with no leaks.
But; for 15 bucks---take it down...remove pump from housing, clean inside of housing, re-seal and re-assemble... then re-install.
You can even cheat--if you dont want to replace the pump shaft seal...no reason to even remove the pulley off the shaft at all...remove pump from under hood...remove hardware from back of pump housing (watch out for spring-loaded fitting)...take housing off of pump with pulley still on pump...rinse housing out and wipe grey/black gunk off of pump...r/r all seals (remember flat 0-rings? ..keep in mind; some ROUND 0-rings have gone flat...and some are actually FLAT...pay attention to the 0-ring fitting locations that have the actual FLAT 0-ring) and re-assemble...re-install.
A good cleaner to use is char-coal starter (its basically Varsol without dye added)...its cheap, squirts, self-contained and wont eat plastic or rubber if any is left...it also dries pretty quickly.
or add pump/pulley shaft seal r/r:
remove pulley with PROPER PS pump pulley remover...remove pump shaft seal and WASHER...install washer and press in new pump shaft seal with a seal driver or press
NOTE:
if done carefuly...a deep 3/4 inch,-half inch drive- impact socket will "press" the new seal in with light taps of a hammer (do it with housing OFF, back of pump on a piece of wood)...but, do it carefull paying attention to not installing at an angle....its also good to pass fine emery cloth over the pump shaft to clean up any nicks or debris BEFORE installing new pump shaft seal and washer...rinse shaft of debris...lube shaft and seal before installing.
Re-install pulley with PROPER pulley installer, it will install the pulley at the CORRECT depth (basically; flush or a lil more with pump shaft)
Hope this helps...its really a very simple fix.
Jim
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From: ♫ ♪ ♫♫ ♪ ♫ ♪♪ ♫
Originally Posted by ltinnell
I bought my power steering pump at Auto Zone for about $40.00, and if you will take your old one with you, they will remove the pulley and install it on the new one for free and only takes a couple of minuyes..........LT
Really?????
I did not know they did r/r's....hmmm.... I havent ever borrowed tools from them since I have my own, but they always offer; thats how I knew.
Some parts I just wont buy, far be it from me to prevent others though (like when I gotta do their repairs. Now I know they will swap stuff for them too...hehehe..lol)...but; I rarely buy from "Not-For-Auto's-Zone" anyway...its gotta be a flashlight or something like that....or a "quality gift" for my BIL at Christmas time...lol
I just know how to do all the repairs and keep them up is all.
Back to the original thread: was advised to just tighten up the studs and have him investigate his own part.
Probably; you can just take things apart again and tighten the studs while under the hood and all will seal again, and then re-assemble with no leaks.
And I admit the coffee gave me energy to type more for others to read...you know...like...household tips...for Vettes.
Jim
