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I have the differential out, and cleaned the outside case, drained it, and removed the back cover. I have a leak on the drivers side yoke seal and the passengers side yoke has no retainer clip. The rear cover did not have a gasket, just some orange rtv type sealer. So I think it has already been rebuilt. Everything seems tight, so I'm hoping I can just replace the side seals and put in the c-clips. Pulling on the side yoke that has no clip, just stops when the end hits the gear. Should I use a slide hammer to pull it or is there something else that's holding it?
It's mushroomed. Use a brass drift and drive out the yoke. Look at it first if there is a big burr then you'll have to remove it. The problem is you don't want to drop filing into the bearings. Look at the housing where the seal is-if the yoke was left in long enough it will hit the housing and grind off the 1/8 boss that's supposed to be there.
Let me add 2 things...The clip is missing, you must find it before re-assembly. Also, the clip may be off the end because the yoke has worn down into the clip groove. Perhaps it is time to replace the yoke(s) while your in there.
Well the slide hammer worked, I had to make a plate to attach to the yokes, as the gear puller adapter wouldn't grip well enough. Yes, the yoke ends had a burr on them. I found some peices of metal and a bunch of metal flakes in the oil. The posi has the two springs near the smaller opening, but both spings are missing from the larger opening. It looks as if half the sping plate is missing as well. I think this rear has been rebuilt before, as there are timken berrings in it. With the filings in the oil I think it'll need a complete overhaul. I think I'll just buy a rebuilt one, and send this in for exchange. I see no other obvious damage, no cracks, and the gears look fine.
I just figured Gary was out of my price range. Sounds to me like he does very high quality, meticulous rebuilds. My car is a driver, I hope I don't need to spend more than $600 to get it back on the road. Sure I want it safe and strong enough not to break, but I don't need better than OEM.
I have done several rebuilds complete including new gears and tuned posi units,(new clutches,springs, plates and cross shafts) It sounds like you will need a rebuild kit which includes bearings, shims, seals and crush sleave plus new springs/plate kit and yokes. The yokes would cost the most but you would probably have to buy new ones anyway even if you opted to buy a rebuilt unit. I could also install a magnetic drain plug for easy oil changes. I could put together a quote for you if you like.