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Old Dec 18, 2005 | 04:36 PM
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Default 76 power window

Window, when going down make some weird movements. I figured something was loose in the window lifting lowering mechanism. Window stopped going down. Decided to see if I could get inner door panel off to have look see. Window went down, just like new. Took inner panel off. Found the three bolts holding the raising lowering mechanism loose. Tightened the three bolts. Tried to lower window, didn't go. Any ideas as to what is wrong?
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Old Dec 18, 2005 | 11:46 PM
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There is a bolt that goes through the window that may have popped off and jammed it. If youv'e gone that far, I'd pull the whole window out and grease the tracks. Its not that bad a job. Pull the track bolts at the top. Remove the cover in the middle of the door and you can get your hand to undo any bolts on the inside. Its not that bad a job, maybe an hour or two.
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Old Dec 19, 2005 | 11:56 PM
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sorry, don't know what could be your problem. but I plan on regreasing my 76 power window tracks this winter after Christmas festivities have ended.
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Old Dec 20, 2005 | 09:09 AM
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Do you hear it trying? You may have hit the electrical connecter to the motor. Its not the best connection. Take the panel off again and push the connector in better while trying to power the window down. If this is your problem you may have to tape the connecter real tight to avoid rattling it loose when driving.

While you have the panel off lube everything. Make sure your spring is on the regulator. These springs break. If it has it will be sitting at the bottom of your door. I doubt this is your problem...the spring assist is raising the glass not lowering.

Check the teeth on the regulator. Make sure they are all there. Depending on how worn your mechanism is you may have pulled the gear of the motor when tightening.

Jim

Last edited by jdp6000; Dec 20, 2005 at 09:12 AM.
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Old Dec 20, 2005 | 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by jdp6000
Do you hear it trying? You may have hit the electrical connecter to the motor. Its not the best connection. Take the panel off again and push the connector in better while trying to power the window down. If this is your problem you may have to tape the connecter real tight to avoid rattling it loose when driving.

While you have the panel off lube everything. Make sure your spring is on the regulator. These springs break. If it has it will be sitting at the bottom of your door. I doubt this is your problem...the spring assist is raising the glass not lowering.

Check the teeth on the regulator. Make sure they are all there. Depending on how worn your mechanism is you may have pulled the gear of the motor when tightening.

Jim
I would make sure I had power before I started tearing the mechinisim apart. Good luck
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Old Dec 20, 2005 | 02:04 PM
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Good point, and good to mention the electrical connections too. I was ready to replace the motor in my wife's car, had a new one in hand, took off the door panel to find the connection was loose. reconnected it, took the motor back and saved $100.
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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 10:31 AM
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Thanks for the input. Feedback, I have greased the tracks, but need to do it again and while all is apart it's a good time. Spring was replaced sometime ago, but aftermarket not as good as original. Connector to motor is connected and tight.

Question, when measuring dc voltage at the motor connector (the one that connects to the motor) should I read 12v dc when activating the up/down switch? I don't! If I should read voltage, this has me confused as the window went up with no problem and went down that one time when I took the inner panel off. I ruled out a fuse as the passenger side window works.

Any thoughts are encouraged.
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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 11:53 AM
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I believe you should get 12 volts. Or at the very least get something.

Sounds like it could be the switch. Pull the side panel off the consol and see if the switch has power. There should be constant power to one side...find that side. Then put the meter on the other side push the switch and see if power continues through it. If you do and it does continue it could be a broken wire between the switch and the motor. Or a bad ground.

If your feeling energetic swap the switches and see if that makes a difference.

Frankly you don't even need a meter use a light type tester.

Jim
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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 04:38 PM
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Yeah, it could be the switch
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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 07:17 PM
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Problem solved! This is an original owner '76 that is driven daily. Drivers door has been opened and closed multiple times. Bet you can't guess where the wire to the motor was broken!
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 04:19 PM
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Did you completely remove the tracks when cleaning and regreasing them? If so, what order to you replace them - since you've done this already.
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by ruby76
Did you completely remove the tracks when cleaning and regreasing them? If so, what order to you replace them - since you've done this already.

When I did this job, I completely removed the tracks and pulled them out from the top. It wasn't that bad and scraping off 30 years of hardened grease was much easier with them out.

It was a while back, but I think I took the front one out last and put it in first. I don't think it was critical as you have to unbolt pretty much all of it the internal tracks to get the window out.

Check the condition of the felt bumpers at the top before you start. They push the window out against the seal. I repaired mine with some silicone, but I would have preffered to put in new ones.
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