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Price ain't that bad...but I'd rather have 2 pc sets w/ aluminium hubs for less weight and better heat dissipation. Coleman can supply you with anything you want, custom hub offssets, rotor sizes & thickness, bolt circles..I'm probably going that route although I may use wilwood hats if they are available in the correct offset (I love the dark purple anodizing and they will match my calipers) after I have everything setup w/ the stock rotors so it's an easy swap. I wouldn't install those cheap rotor that are available ...they will most likely warp pretty soon, if i wanted drilled rotors I'd probably drill my stockers which are in perfect condition (I have a drill template underway so i can drill them myself)
Go for it and let us know the results
Last edited by Twin_Turbo; Dec 23, 2005 at 09:57 AM.
holes and slots ar purely cosmetic, modern street pads don't outgas much at all so they really aren't needed, if you wanted to get into the details of it the holes and even the slots can be viewed as detrimental, the holes may make the rotor prone to cracking if they are drilled (the expensive rotors like brembos have cast holes) and holes and slots reduce the rotor weight (a plus when it comes to unsprung weight) but reduction in rotor mass means that they have less mass as a heat buffer and overall running temp will be hotter. When you brake the rotor heats up, the vehicles kinetic energy is converted into heat by the friction of the pads, this heats up the rotor and when the brakes are let off the rotor dissipates this heat to the air (reason why our rotors have vanes, they pump air from the center of the rotor to the outside..basically a vane pump...also a reason why closed wheels like centerline autodrags can raise rotor temperatures under hard conditions), the more mass the rotor has the lower the temperature because the energy put into it is spread over more mass (kind of simplistic but that's how it is)
Do the holes provide much added benefit over just having slots with good performance pads like Hawk?
From what I have read not really. For the kind of driving that 95% of us do you will probably not see much of a difference over the standard rotor. Looks though. My rotors are about shot and a decent set of replacements is going to be around 400 so for a few more $$$ why not get something that looks good and performs good. With 17 and 18 inch wheels the rotors are quite visible so a good looking rotor is a benefit.
TT beat me to it. After reading Tire racks article on brake rotors they do not suggest you run slotted or drilled rotors on the track. Mine will never be a track car so I'm not to worried. TT good explination of the brakes and how the cooling works.
$229 a pair isn't bad at all. I like them so much, I bookmarked the page. Twin Turbo is right. The holes are cosmetic, but half of what we do is for good looks, cause good looks count. OK, so I'm vane. Gordo, if you get them, let us know how you like them. Can you take a moment to weigh them. I hope they are an ounce or two lighter than stock.
Bee Jay
holes and slots ar purely cosmetic, modern street pads don't outgas much at all so they really aren't needed
i agree completely. some people also claim that just slotted rotors help dissapate water buildup on the rotor for initial braking, but for everyday conditions, i doubt any street driver would notice a difference. i have a lot of buddies who ran drilled (not cast) rotors and like twin turbo said, more than a few produced cracks after a couple laps on the track, not to mention they chew up pads very quickly...
i agree completely. some people also claim that just slotted rotors help dissapate water buildup on the rotor for initial braking, but for everyday conditions, i doubt any street driver would notice a difference. i have a lot of buddies who ran drilled (not cast) rotors and like twin turbo said, more than a few produced cracks after a couple laps on the track, not to mention they chew up pads very quickly...
The water thing is part of the reason why some calipers have springs behind the pistons, this keeps the pads dragging the rotor a bit so it should wipe off any water, if you have a lot of water on the rotors and the pads are not touching then it could give a little bit of brake fade during the initial depressing of the pedal but the difference would be minimal.
On na side note, Mercedes developed some kind of smart radar system that detects an oncoming collisioon and it pushes the pads against the rotors to win a couple of milliseconds when rbaking (and in the german press it got out it wasn't working very well at all..a long story but when a MB suit was discussing the problems w/ a tech during the testing session for the media they were discussing it not knowing the mic and camera were still on )
All of motorcylces have had drilled rotors, and my Porsche has drilled rotors. I've driven the heck out of some of them, and I've never had a rotor crack. I had a BMW 635 once, warped the rotors regularly, and I warped the rotors on my Camaro once. Never had drilled rotors warp. Not scientific data, but like I said earlier, I like the looks of drilled rotors. Does VP make drilled rotors?
Bee Jay
Like I said, brembos are manufactured with cast in holes and porsches use brembos. The motorcycle isn't a good enough comparison, the amount of heat produced is much less and the rotor is widely exposed, cooling is much more efficient.
So I'm confused. What's better abut them than a normal set of drilled / slotted rotors from the likes of Vette Brakes??
Vette brakes has slotted rotors and they are a little cheaper but not much. Probably not much difference between the two.
If I do get them I will weigh them compared to the stock ones and let you know. As soon as the wheels come in I will probably be getting the rotors also. Hopefully in a week or two.
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