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Ed, I had/have the same problem w/my 79 & 66. Drain the new battery dead after a week. The 66 can do the job in two days. Tried pulling fuses, rewired the front of the car no luck. Installed the green battery kill switchs from Napa or you local auto supply. No more dead batterys. Clock is never right but doesn't work on the 79 & who looks at a clock anyway.
G/L Jim
I had a short inside my starter (not the solenoid). New starter, drain gone. A kill switch is a great band-aid while you're searching for the problem, but isn't much as a long-term solution, as you still have a problem somewhere.
"Rodstoration &am p;quot; In Progres
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,397
Likes: 1
From: Frisco TX
Thanks Guys... I have the green battery disconnect attached but then added (dumb move) a fused bypass to keep the clock going. Now...dead batteries... Will start pulling fuses this morning and report back.
I am using the kill switch on my 72 until I solve the problem. One thing that I have found...every time I connect the kill switch I get a clicking sound from my horn relay...clicks when I connect and clicks when I disconnect. When I try to hook up the wire to the horn...it goes off. I am prettry sure that I have a poor ground somewhere, but cn't seem to find it.
Not to hijack the thread, but I recently had a battery drain caused by courtesy lights coming on. Do you guys have "spacers" that are glued to your doors to properly kill the door switches for the courtesy lights? I knocked it off while I was stripping glue while replacing the weatherstripping.
On the upside, my '77 went a full month and I was still able to fire it up.
Hi,I have the same problem with my 1980 battery drain in about 2 wks. My electric door locks do not work along with courtesy light door switches but lights go on with headlight dimmer **** . Other have mentioned a bad ground. How & where could you check for one. where does neg cable go? My car has not been on a lift as yet. I have a kill switch but am reluctant to just change the starter. Any Ideas
I am using the kill switch on my 72 until I solve the problem. One thing that I have found...every time I connect the kill switch I get a clicking sound from my horn relay...clicks when I connect and clicks when I disconnect. When I try to hook up the wire to the horn...it goes off. I am prettry sure that I have a poor ground somewhere, but cn't seem to find it.
rt
My 66 had the same clicking went I disc/reconn the battery. I switched the (+ and - ) on the relay (Green & Black wires) no more clicking & horn works fine. Battery stills dies, so I pushed the problem off until spring time. (no heat in the garage)
My 66 had the same clicking went I disc/reconn the battery. I switched the (+ and - ) on the relay (Green & Black wires) no more clicking & horn works fine. Battery stills dies, so I pushed the problem off until spring time. (no heat in the garage)
I will try switching the wires. The previous owner rebuilt the engine, but his wiring skills were a 2 on a scale of 1-10. In the long run I will probably be replacing all the harness wiring.
My 81 does the same thing although it takes a little longer than a week. I finally broke down and bought a battery tender for it. I'm going to bet that mine is coming from the alarm.
I am having the same problem with my 79. I have owned it for 4 years now and this year is the first time experiencing the problem. The battery is about 2 years old. I did notice recently though that after closing the doors the inside dome and foot board lights stay on for about 30 seconds then dim out -- I never really noticed this b-4 so maybe I will start there. I know this is a standard operation but it was not there when the battery drain was not. Why it is working now I don't know. It is possible that this circuit is maintaining a drain. I will let you know what I find out.
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