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Crate vs Rebuild, 383 Stroker

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Old Dec 24, 2005 | 07:56 PM
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Default Crate vs Rebuild, 383 Stroker

Does anyone have any advice/comments of pros/cons on a new crate engine (383 stroker) versus rebuilding an original engine to be a 383 stroker? Engine is an L-81, 49K original miles. I've heard rebuilds to mimick a 383 stroker is possible, but wondering if it is worth it.

Thanks
Scott
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Old Dec 24, 2005 | 08:53 PM
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unless you own a machine shop, you will always save money by buying the crate. and most crates come with warrenties.
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Old Dec 24, 2005 | 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by redc3
unless you own a machine shop, you will always save money by buying the crate. and most crates come with warrenties.
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Old Dec 25, 2005 | 12:33 AM
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This begs the question of whom do you buy from? I see people on E-Bay & the net selling 383's for $2700 - $7000. Maybe I can't build one for $2700, but I bet I can beat $7k. Now I will grant that most of the more expensive engines are new w/alum heads, but that still leaves about $4500 for the block, which I think is high. Where is everyone getting their reasonable 383's from & exactly what is a reasonable price?

BTW warranty-smorarranty, I've never blown an engine I've built yet & shipping a crate half way across the US for warranty work doesn't strike me as such a good deal either. However, a professionally designed & implemented engine build does have it's merits.

I could be wrong.
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Old Dec 25, 2005 | 08:56 AM
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why don't you price the pieces out? You need a crank and rods from a 400 sb, then new pistons, rings, bearings, etc, etc, etc...cam of your choice, new heads or keep your own, cost of machine work....030 bore, balance, recon the rods, turn the crank.

If the cost is within reason of some ebay price, build your own, you know exactly what you're getting.

Or, why not pick up a complete 400 c.i. small block? Build that, plus more cubes.
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Old Dec 25, 2005 | 11:42 AM
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If your block is good you may want to re-use it. Honing, decking and align boring should be around $600 (a local shop here quoted me $700 but that's probably not the best deal out there), cleaning and inspecting is included, too

the rotating assembly with nodular cast crank and forged pistons is about $1000 ($900 - $1200, depending on what brand aso), add $400-$500 for a forged crank

Good heads are about $1000, cam and lifters are $250

All together you're looking at $3500 for machine work and parts (including all the small stuff)

Add another $1000 for a new GM 4-bolt block...

For $4500 you get everything brand new and you know what's in the engine
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Old Dec 25, 2005 | 12:09 PM
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Another option, and one I'm considering, is purchasing a rebuilt 383 short block. I've seen them for around $1,900 or so. In my case, I've already invested in rebuilt vortec heads and intake. This means I can be in a 383 for around $2,500 if you factor in shipping, new cam and lifters. Not a bad price in my opinion.
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Old Dec 25, 2005 | 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Frankenvette
Another option, and one I'm considering, is purchasing a rebuilt 383 short block. I've seen them for around $1,900 or so. In my case, I've already invested in rebuilt vortec heads and intake. This means I can be in a 383 for around $2,500 if you factor in shipping, new cam and lifters. Not a bad price in my opinion.
You can get a (assembled) 383 short block for less than $1400 - not sure what parts they're using
It's just like these machined blocks that they offer on the net for $349 - I don't see how they can cover the labor cost with that price...
An assembled 383 short block from a builder with a good reputation should be around $2500 - anything cheaper than that makes me suspicious
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Old Dec 25, 2005 | 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by RedBad1979
You can get a (assembled) 383 short block for less than $1400 - not sure what parts they're using
It's just like these machined blocks that they offer on the net for $349 - I don't see how they can cover the labor cost with that price...
An assembled 383 short block from a builder with a good reputation should be around $2500 - anything cheaper than that makes me suspicious
You can gp cheap but you usually get what you pay for. If you are going to run it hard I would get oe with good components built correctly. I would not trust some of these motors that I have seen for cheap at anything more than 5000 rpm. If you want something good tha twill last that you can run hard it is going to cost you around 2500 for a complete 383.
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Old Dec 25, 2005 | 03:07 PM
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i just did mine. only i paid to have the motor removed and reinstalled.liminited space here. there was only 15,000 on the previous build(383) i bought new heads(64cc)and a new intake,head bolts,push rods roller tip rockers,,spent 1500 on those parts,,and brought the stuff to the builder he charged me 4500,we reused the pistons and rods and cam and lifters he supplied the rings and gaskets bolts ect he also installed a new crank, so the total with engine removal,and installation was 6,000,he also dynoed it for me came in at 431 hp 523 ' lbs torque all this stuff adds up, would have been cheaper if i used old crank but it had to be ground .30 and i didnt want it anymore,,i took it to a reliable engine shop,dont mind paying if its done right

Last edited by carl a; Dec 25, 2005 at 03:10 PM.
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Old Dec 25, 2005 | 09:01 PM
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Got my 383 short block from theenginestore.com. 0 decked, Eagle cast crank, SIR 5.7 rods, SpeedPro 12cc dish pistons, internal balance, CC XE274 cam + lifters, Speed Pro roller timming set, Speed Pro Moly rings, Clevite bearings, clearanced 4 bolt block. Delivered to a terminal near me, $2250.91.

Excellent workmanship and support from Kent.
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Old Dec 25, 2005 | 09:21 PM
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Default Get a turnkey package!

I had my engine rebuildt and rad recored w/4 core. New front end poly, dual spals installed. Had the engine bay painted and under carriage cleaned and recoated. 1 shop was responsible for everything. It cost a little more I'm sure, but I got what I wanted and if there is a problem I know who to go to.
I bought most of the Vette specialty parts and had the shop do the work. I saved a little.

Rick
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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 12:39 AM
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you definitely get what you pay for. I'm on my second 383 right now, and it keeps getting more and more expensive. I recommend, do it once, do it right, and don't cheap out. Go for the goods..its worth it in the long run.
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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Redshark6974
you definitely get what you pay for. I'm on my second 383 right now, and it keeps getting more and more expensive. I recommend, do it once, do it right, and don't cheap out. Go for the goods..its worth it in the long run.
I'm on my second 383 also, went for a "cheap" crate motor first, and regret it now.
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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 10:24 PM
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What do you guys refer to as 'cheap'? And do you consider a new block as any better? Most of the more expensive engines I have looked at come in at around $6k+ and have a new block, whereas the $4k unit have a seasoned block. Every engine builder I've ever talked to always said seasoned blocks are far and above better for hot rod use. Speed-O-Motive has a 425hp 383 for around $4k & I am asssuming this is the type and price of a 'good' build.
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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by ratflinger
What do you guys refer to as 'cheap'? And do you consider a new block as any better? Most of the more expensive engines I have looked at come in at around $6k+ and have a new block, whereas the $4k unit have a seasoned block. Every engine builder I've ever talked to always said seasoned blocks are far and above better for hot rod use. Speed-O-Motive has a 425hp 383 for around $4k & I am asssuming this is the type and price of a 'good' build.
IMO, i say cheap by using flat tappet cams and KB hyper pistons. Going roller cam has so much more benefits, in the long run, its always worth the extra money. Forged pistons in any HIGH hp motor is always a plus, of course this is just from my experience and i've gone from cheap to expensive...but not all out exotic.
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