Sure it sounds dumb...but...remember hearing the clocks go "tick-tick-tick-tick-clack!-tick-tick-tick ect.."

Well...these type clocks have points in them. When the contacts touch: "clack!", it reloads the winder.
I filed my clock points and it works now.

I used a 9v battery to test it to see if it would continue to keep time...all is good.

The pics show the clock mechanism removed, the points closed, then opened and the battery connection that does it, and the clock back in the housing and tested again.








Jim

 

 

did that with mine,
works a treat,
glad you remembered to tell everyone cos i forgot,
natt

 

My clock works but I will file that away for day it doesnt.

Chris B

 

so that's what's wrong with my clock on my 79?? I don't think in the 7 yrs that i've been on this forum,( I know my sig says 2000, but I've been here since 98, got lost in one of the forum upgrades 5 yrs ago), that I have ever seen how to fix a clock, just replace it. cool!!!!

 

Thanks for the tip. I will get around to redoing my interior this summer, and plan on fixing my clock at that time.

kdf

 

I am new to the forum...and the 79 L-82 I got was free(sorta).
I continued to write how EZ it is to work on this era of cars.
Many people stated it would not be EZ, and take a lot of $$$.
Well, it has been habit forming I agree.
I have spent $1,100.00 --- replacement parts (mostly rubber items).
Probably spent a total of $1500.00 if you want to count cleaning supplies too...yes, it was that grungy and neglected.

And; parts of this car has been Bub'rized by "Bubba's Tires-N-Bra's"
This has to be the hardest part so far; undoing Bubba BS


But, these era of cars are so EZ to work on...everything (just about) can be repaired by the regular dude at home.
Now; I turned wrenches back in the days of these cars, so, that moves me along a little kwicker, knowing the tips and tricks.

I use the CF for memory help (I am getting up there in age...lol)
I also use the CF for correct repair protocols and inside tips on Vettes.
I cant say I repaired lots of Vettes "back in the day"...but, for the most part; its a 70's era GM.


As far as the clock goes...

I fixed mine, but I have done many.
Keep in mind that; clock face and housing are removed, and just the mechanism/movements remains.
The clocks can be repaired as long as the little "mini-solenoid coil"(last pic-w/red wiring wound under plastic) and its wiring is good.
or
nothing rusted-over/siezed...it will work with just a regular ole filing of the points.

I did something I usually would NOT of done; spray WD-40 on it.

I did it because I wanted to "flush" debris from the mechanism (being careful not to soak "mini-solenoid coil").
I also had a problem with the "time adjust mechanism" being siezed.
This also removes the filing debris.
I then had to clear out as much WD40 as possible; as it keeps the mechanism from operating, and will actually collect dust and debris.
Do not oil.

--NOTE--
These old clocks do not have powerful movements, oil and/or WD40 will cause the movements to stop...all lubricants should be removed to restore function.


Checked the clock this morning....all is good...still.




Jim

 

After you file it away; stay in contact with me because if you forget I can point you all the right movements so you dont waste your time.





Jim

 

definitely gotta file this one away to fix mine...

 

Jim -- thanks for the tip! I actually have my center consol out right now (replacing the heater core) so I just might give this a try. I'm afraid mine might be a little rusted over though.

 

After its out of the bezel:

Gently remove hands--my seconds-hand was the hardest to pull out, the other two are pretty EZ. (I used my fingers and not pliers)

Carefully remove the clock face by *GENTLY* bending the little tangs out of the way.

To remove the actual housing is the same thing...bend the tangs, and the upper lip of the housing will be bent over a little...needle nose pliers here...gently bend away and the movement comes out...inspect it first for corrosion or broken parts.

Seperate the points and gently file them...touch battery as the pics show.
If it reloads the the winder...yer in buisness.
You can then choose to flush the debris out or not...if you do; dont be *alarmed* if it quits working....lol

Just continue to wipe and blow out your cleaning solution...(I dont recomend soapNwater)...just any silicone spray...hold the solenoid *UP* when spraying as to avoid getting any spray in it (as best as you can).
You may even have to give the little pedulum a spin to jump start it a couple of time to help remove some of the cleaning solution...I didnt try contactor cleaner, as I didnt want to completely remove all lubricating properties.

Let dry, blow out with aerosol can of air, whatever...hit the battery on it again making sure it still re-loads the winder...re-assemble in housing...check with battery again.

Finally; re-install in bezel and check with battery again.
You can even get two small wires with a clip on each end and clip it to the 9v battery to let it run for a while.

Something I havent mention is; You need to check for power on the circuit board where the clock contact is after re-installing the consol's wire clip on the back of the bezel...then check for ground.

If all is good...free clock repair!!!



Jim

 

I used TV tuner contact cleaner on my clock workings about 5 years ago. I understand that the contact cleaner actually contains some sort of lube. Sprayed it down, filled the points, and it's been running ever since.

 

Good idea.

I hope ecerybody knows NOT to wipe the numerals on the clock face.

They might even wash off with a moist towel...a dry Q-tip over the painted numerals.

 

Well, I got the clock apart. The contacts seem OK and the selonoid is working with a 9V battery but no clock movement. If I spin the pendulum, I get about 6 seconds out of it and if I put pressure on the contact that moves (the one on the wheel) it'll keep going but it seems to take quite a bit of pressure. Maybe tomorrow I'll hit it with some wd-40 and see if that helps. I also wonder if a spring might be worn out in there.

 

Yukon,
Check out this site for a more detailed description of operation and repair:
http://members.aol.com/jjneyjr/clock/grepair1.htm

I had the same problem as you. It would move for 5-10 seconds then nothing. I used compressed air at 10 PSI to blow out the dirt VERY GENTLY. Then I used STP Wire Dryer to spray out the dirt. It is used to clean caps, rotors, etc. and is safe on plastic (I tested it on a PP plastic fork for 20 min). I kept the spray away from the solenoid, and on the second shot it took off. I used more compressed air and let it run for 5 min. I used 3 in 1 Dry Lube with PTFE on the gears. I sprayed a little out of the straw onto a paper towel and then let it drip onto the gears instead of spraying it all over. So far, so good. Now I am working on getting the timing spring set correctly.

 

Thanks for the link. I was able to get my clock to run continuously with the 9v battery. When I put it back in the car it wound a few times and stopped (so it worked for about 5 minutes). If I touch a 9v battery to it, it winds again but for some reason its not getting enough power in the car. I checked the voltage on the wire that goes to it and I'm getting 12v on it so I'm not sure what's going on there. I might have to trace that wire back and make sure it has good connections everywhere and also make sure I have a good enough ground. The wiring on my car is not in the best of shape.

The good news is that my heater is all back together. Now if we could just get some cold weather here so I could try it out....

 

Thanks for the tip. I don't have the clock in the car(but it's somewhere around here). When I find it, I'll make sure to do it.

 

I was just about to purchase a new clock. When I say just about I had it in cart and ready to purchase @ elckers when I thought why not check the forum first. Long story short I too nine apart and it has been working for a week now. Thanks again I owe you about 114.00

 

Easy way to fix the clock. Use the digital one in a modern radio, and put an oil temp gauge where the clock used to be.

 

My clock works