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LS1 is in BUT ?????

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Old Dec 29, 2005 | 10:07 AM
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Default LS1 is in BUT ?????

I got it in but found some problems,ls1's are shorter,so my 700r4 is 2 or so inchs away,so no big deal,i loosened the mount and slid it forward.Ill reweld up a crossmember bracket ,since i already have a different crossmember in it anyway itll be easy.BUT i need alonger driveshaft again after i cut it shorter to fit the 700r4 now its just barely in there.1 more thing to add to the list of parts needed.Oil pan looks like i can fit the truck pan in it,which is good cause there very cheap compared to the c5's and f bodys.Its 8 inchs deep and itll give me about 3-4 inchs of clearance to the ground plus the ls1 is lighter so car should raise some.Im heading to hardware store for bellhousing bolts,since i forgot there metric so need to go get 5 of them then ill start fabbing the sidepipes to fit.Oh and the motor mount adapters from VETTEDAN are awesome,now if they were 2 inchs longer then i wouldnt have to move the tranny,but oh well.Anybody else put als1 in there vettes with a turbo 350/400 or 700r4 let me know if you had to move the trans . forward.Also need to pull itback out and redetail everything,lot of overspray hidden areas.


Last edited by patsnitrovette; Dec 29, 2005 at 10:20 AM.
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Old Dec 29, 2005 | 10:17 AM
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Lookin good Pat. One thought though, I had 3.5" of ground clearance on Project RamJet and knocked a hole in the oil pan when rolling it up on a shop lift. I was always creeping over speed bumps with an occasional thump. I wound up opting for a Moroso winged pan which holds 7+ quarts of oil and plenty of clearance. Might be worth it in the long run

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Old Dec 29, 2005 | 10:19 AM
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Really,hmm maybe i should rethink the truck pan,ill get the trans bolted in get the other front tire on back on let it down and remeasure to be 100% correct.
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Old Dec 29, 2005 | 11:05 AM
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ok truck pan wont work,i only 3 inchs of clearance when its on the ground with no hood or accessories on it ,so looks like the fbody pan will have to work.I fit the intake and covers too and took some pics. Oh and ill be painting the intake electronblue before its gets bolted on.

Last edited by patsnitrovette; Dec 29, 2005 at 11:08 AM.
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Old Dec 29, 2005 | 11:20 AM
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Pat, that is awesome! I'd definately consider an LS1 if I needed a new engine. I am old school and haven't quite bridged to gap to new technology. Did you just take an ECM from a wreck to run the LS1 engine? I need to do everything on the cheap, so wondered about the cost and availability from salvage yards. That is a very cool application for a C-3; I'm diggin it!
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Old Dec 29, 2005 | 11:46 AM
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Pat, my guess is a stock C-4 driveshaft will bolt right in. Have someone in the C-4 section measure theirs. Since my T56 is longer the 700R4 driveshaft bolted in, but is out a inch or two. C-4 driveshafts go for about $50. Can you have the Truck pan cut and rewelded? If you want I can go over and check and see if RPM has any used ones. Just PM me.
On oil pans, mine hit the ram, so I had to extend the connection to the frame one inch. It's a no big deal to do with a some welding or spacers.
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Old Dec 29, 2005 | 11:48 AM
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Why not mount the engine further back? Would give better weight distribution, more room up front and it would only take 2 new mounts
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Old Dec 29, 2005 | 11:52 AM
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This whole ls1 into a c3 thing is awesome, I'm very much looking into it for my next project.
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Old Dec 29, 2005 | 11:55 AM
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From: absecon nj
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I wouldve but i just bought the mounts,buddy the truck pan is 8.5 deep and the front is 3 inchs deep,i could cut the sump and lower it for more clearance and also lower the steering rod like you did.Ill let you know,got to get back out there and get one sidepipe working.Ill go uot and measure how long the driveshaft has to be now and get back to you.
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Old Dec 29, 2005 | 11:56 AM
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Then modify the mounts...how hard can that be? Do you have a pic of the mounts?
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Old Dec 29, 2005 | 12:23 PM
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Looks awesome!
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Old Dec 29, 2005 | 12:28 PM
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Pat, looks good. You should have no problems with the F-body pan. Mine looks like it sits even farther forward than yours and the pan fit just fine.
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Old Dec 29, 2005 | 12:43 PM
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TT, I am assuming the mounts are something like this.

1/4" thick plate of steel. The 4 holes that are lined up in a rectangle bolt to the block. The 3 holes that are in a triangle shape bolt to the original corvette motor mounts. One hole is shared by both the bock and the mount.
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Old Dec 29, 2005 | 12:44 PM
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well..that surely won't be too hard to modify.
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Old Dec 29, 2005 | 01:05 PM
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Old Dec 29, 2005 | 01:17 PM
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From: absecon nj
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well,another thing to take into consideration would be if i was using regular exhaust yeah i would but with the sidepipes,id have to modify the side tubes too,i got one sidepipe cut fitted and tacked in place,ill take it to work and use my good welder the finish welding it,ill do the passenger side tommorrow,have to out for now



Last edited by patsnitrovette; Dec 30, 2005 at 07:19 PM.
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Old Dec 29, 2005 | 03:48 PM
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Looks like the project is moving along smoothly! Good luck with the remainder of the work...

PS: Making the sidepipes work on the LS1 is very Good Job man!
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To LS1 is in BUT ?????

Old Dec 29, 2005 | 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Budman78
Pat, my guess is a stock C-4 driveshaft will bolt right in. Have someone in the C-4 section measure theirs. Since my T56 is longer the 700R4 driveshaft bolted in, but is out a inch or two. C-4 driveshafts go for about $50. Can you have the Truck pan cut and rewelded? If you want I can go over and check and see if RPM has any used ones. Just PM me.
On oil pans, mine hit the ram, so I had to extend the connection to the frame one inch. It's a no big deal to do with a some welding or spacers.
Buddy which driveshaft do you have in yours then?And whats the length?
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Old Dec 30, 2005 | 08:36 AM
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This is the C-4 driveshaft that I used on my 700R4 swap. It just happened to fit in the T-56. With the 700R4 I had 29 1/4" from tailhouse end to diff flange surface. I believe the C-4 driveshafts are around 32 - 34".
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Old Dec 30, 2005 | 08:38 AM
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Driveshaft link
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