I am trying to take off the wheel on my '79. I have the wheel off, but can't get off the hub. how do i do this. I have used a puller, but can't get it......AAAGGGHHH...pics would be appreciated

Andy

 

Lock-plate-ring depresser has been used already correct??

If not...borrow one from your local auto-parts store.
It screws on the steering shaft threads, depresses the plate so the lock-ring can be removed...then the hub slides up and out.



Jim
Steering Wheel Lock Plate Depressor/Remover

 

Jim..thanks, i was trying to use a bolt to screw into the middle of the opening. I have tried 2 pullers and both don't seem to work. here's a link to 3 pics on photobucket.... Any added coments will be appreciated. I did see your link , tried one of those pullers yesterday and it didn't work as their was NOT enough room in the center of the hub for the 2 legs...

Andy

http://photobucket.com/albums/c312/greenwood79/?sc=1

 

Andy;
your link is the "log-in" link..since I dont have the password.......I cant view the pics...lol


Jim

 

Sorry..Password is 'harvey"..

I am really stumped on this one and I greatly appreciate your help. Chevey dealer in my town is closed today, as I called to see if the parts dept. could help.

Andy

 

I seen(barely) the lock-clip/ring still in place at the very base of the threads on the steering shaft...the shaft is grooved below the threads, and that clip goes in that groove preventing the hub from sliding off the splines...be careful; it is spring-loaded

From what I can see;
You will have to fabricate some kind of plate to go over the hub leaving enough room in the center the get the lock-ring out (I dont remember ever seeing a hub to small for the legs...but, not the issue).

Maybe use two pieces of strong flat metal--one above the shaft and one below the shaft...both sitting on the hub, and located where both the legs of the tool can make contact with both flat bars. thread tool over shaft...then place legs on, and compress enough to reach little lock ring and remove it...it is tight sliding up the steering shaft, but a little pick-tool or small screw driver should slide it up.

Try not to damage the splines or threads when working on that.
Also; DO NOT bang on the shaft...I know most cars have a plastic "rivet" that is easily broken...that rivet holds the two piece shaft together...its there so if you have a wreck and you smash you head.chest into the steering wheel, the rivet is made to break and llow the shaft to "collasp" and not crush you on head on impacts.

I will try my hand at drawing something and then scanning it so you can get an idea of what I am trying to describe to fabricate to do this.

I am still kinda amazed the legs dont fit a vette hub...how much is it "too wide"?...can you bend the legs in a little and then bend them back to normal?


Jim

 

I did my 81 by pushing down and prying the lock up. it came out easy but putting it back was another story. I had push the plate down with two hands and have someone start the lock ,once the lock is started in you can pry it down all the way.. I have the tilt wheel and couldn't figure out how to use the installer because of the two piece shaft

 

I hope you get the idea of putting something in place for the legs of the tool to create pressure on the hub...the terrible drawing would be using something like 1/8" flat plate...the plates dont have to be as dramatically long as in the drawing...just long enough for the legs to fit on.

Leave enough room for you to get a pick-tool in the groove to remove the clip/lock-ring.

yeah...terrible drawing...hopefully it conveys the idea.

Anything larger than your hub and strong enough to withstand the pressure of the depressor will work...it dont have to be flate plate...it could be a large flat washer or old stove burner...anything that will get the legs over the hub, have room for clip/ring removal and hold pressure.


go ahead...yuk it up...lol


Jim

 

There is no locking ring holding the hub in place. It is just a press fit to the steering column steering shaft. You need to obtain a puller that has a span that is small enough to allow you to thread two bolts into the tapped holes located at approximately 7:30 o'clock and 1:30 o'clock in the hub. Use some kind of metal washer to cover the center of the steering column shaft so that the center post of the puller doesn't mess up the threads that the star screw threads into.

Jim

 

Jim..thanks...Here's the question.. I have done that so far....BUT the center shaft..Am i screwing directly INTO it or outside of it around the threads?

Thanks,

Andy

 

Most of the pullers that I am familiar with had a threaded center post with a pointed end. The pointed end tended to smear the very end thread where the star screw went in. That is why I placed a piece of metal just over the end of the steering shaft. There is no need to thread into or thread onto the inner or outer threads on the steering shaft.

It is important to thread the two puller bolts into the hub so that they are straight. It does take a lot of force to get the hub off. You can actually break the puller bolts if they are not straight into the hub.

Jim

 

Thats intresting.

It would mean that either:
A.Chevy used two types of columns in 1979.
B.Greenwood has had his 1979 column swapped before.
or
C.Somewhere down the line my 1979 column was swapped before.

Why do I say this?...
because Friday night I was lubing my turn signal indicator from squeaking and I was also showing my son how to work the tool (he is 17).
I quickly snatched the ring out using the tool, then the hub, and lubed the copper "track contacts".
This is one of the few things I havent taken a pic of (Jim, as you know I have pretty much taken pics of all repairs I have done).

When I repair the telescopic portion I will take pics.



If Andy's 79 does NOT have a lock-ring...that would mean the tool linked above did nothing more than "press" the splined hub further onto the shaft, making it more dificult to remove...for that I apologize.
It wasnt bad advice, just the wrong advice for the column he has...and after viewing his pics, his looked like mine, and looked like the lock-ring was there.

I am starting to find out these cars are like early model Fender Strats...parts from the previous years were used if *somewhat* applicable, visually the same, still stocked, and inventory needed depleting.

I am gonna go in my corner and kwit giving advice.



Jim

 

I am still confused about your problem. Nearly all steering columns are constructed the same way. The steering column has a shaft with splines and a tapered portion that engages a hub. The steering shaft has threads on the very end for a nut to insure that the hub cannot come off. (Later GM steering columns had a clip on top of the nut to insure that the nut could never come off on its own.)

The hub can be a seperate part (like the Corvette) or the hub can be molded right into the steering wheel itself.

Once the nut is removed, they all require that you use a puller to get the hub off the tapered steering shaft.

Here is a picture from the Chevrolet Shop Manual of a puller.


As you can see, there is a threaded center post that pushes directly against the steering shaft. The bridge bar spans across and the two smaller bolts are threaded into the tapped holes in the hub. Turning the center post clockwise causes the bridge to climb up the threads and the two smaller bolts pull the hub off. It usually does take a lot of force.

Sorry about the size of the picture.

Jim

 

Hopefully, i'll have a chance today to get outinto my carport with the pouring rain and try some of this. Remember, my wheel is ALREADY OFF, I am past that point....

Andy

 

As i mentioned in a previous post. Some steering wheels have the hub molded directly into the wheel. That is what is pictured in the shop manual.

The C3 Corvette steering wheel has a separate hub. The steering wheel part is held to the hub with 6 screws. The hubs act the same. They have a tapered section that essentially "locks" itself to the steering shaft and requires a puller to remove it. Don't be tempted to hammer on the hub to get it off, you will run a major risk of damaging the steering column bearings.

Jim

 

OK...the threaded center post that comes with the universal pullers is TOOO big ( diameter). It simply doesn't fit inside the steering shaft. I can thread the other bolts at 7:30 and 1:00 just fine..no issue.

Hammering? How about explosives?? (lol)

I just spent 40 hours replacing my seats, interior, door panels, speakers and this wheel has me baffled...

I'll keep at it.....

andy

 

The puller doesn't have to thread into the steering shaft it simply pushes against the center of the steering shaft and pulls the hub up by the outer bolts. Mine has a slight point to stay centered.

 

OK, sorry to be so dense....but I have a few pullers at this point and a lock wheel puller as well. I have 2 round pieces, about 3"long, hollow inside with threads at one end...I also have the bolt which is toooo big for the shaft....From what is being posted, which one am i to use in the center position, flanked by the 2 bolts at 7:30 and 1:00....The bolt or one of the 2 long hollow pieces provided.

Andy

 

Just the oversized bolt as log as ti will thread enought to pull the hub off. the hollow tubes are spacers if I recall correctly. Mark