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If you beat on the shock mount too hard you'll either damage the threads on the mount or break the arms that the mounts attach to.... these are really expensive to replace
this is the first time I'm quoting myself.... look at reply #6 again.....
I guess your cheapest solution is to get something used on Ebay, the other side (the one that is not damaged) is also used - so who cares....
IF you have the money to do it right: two new bearing assemblies with two rebuilt arms are on VBP's or vanSteel's website.... maybe they feel sorry for you and see if they can find something used in their spare parts corner .... PM them.....
FWIW, you can make a DIY version of the tool (for this or any other application) by finding a short bolt (same thread) and nut. Screw the nut partway onto the piece you're trying to loosen then screw the new bolt onto it - making sure that the ends of the two bolt are securely touching one another. When you hit the new bolt the force is transmitted through the end of the metal and not the threads. You have to keep an eye on things to make sure they stay tight but I've used a few times and it seems to work OK.
this is a bad bad idea...the bearing is not being used properly when machined like that...it spins on the race instead of using the bearing as designed....i know you didnt say to do this Tom454
That's right... I won't slip fit a customers car either... liability issues.
I slip fit my C2 spindles around 1975... 30 years ago.
Turned the spindles down so that only moderate force is required to disassemble it (instead of a press or special tool). They are still an interference fit, but less than OEM.
Have had no problems with it.
But, I don't race that car anymore either.
When I built the offset pair for my C3, I kept them OEM.
Adding to an old and vexing thread and body of knowledge. I don't doubt that many have had a relatively easy time with this repair, especially from very dry areas, but it also amazes me that some folks insist their way will work for others. I thought I might be OK when the castle nuts came off pretty well with a electric impact gun. Not so much. I can flat out say, there was no way it was getting knocked, or hammered through. Maybe an Oxy torch, but MAP gas, every rust penetrant known, gear puling, gear pushing and hammering yielded exactly nothing.
I finally just cut through the mount on 2 sides and pushed the remnants through with the tie rod puller.
I then tried just the tie rod puller on the remaining side and with the load it placed on the mount, well in excess of a 5 pound hammer smack, nothing moved. I then cut it out in 2 pieces and was done. A really PITA job made more so on ramps and not in the air!
this is a bad bad idea...the bearing is not being used properly when machined like that...it spins on the race instead of using the bearing as designed....i know you didnt say to do this Tom454
