U-joint replacement question
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 78
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From: Austin TX
U-joint replacement question
1982 Corvette
350 CID
I am needing to replace the u-joint on this vette, and I can get it off of the transmission, but I am having trouble getting it off of the drive shaft. Every book I have looked at is not very helpful at all. Any advice on this is appreciated.
TIA,
CDM
350 CID
I am needing to replace the u-joint on this vette, and I can get it off of the transmission, but I am having trouble getting it off of the drive shaft. Every book I have looked at is not very helpful at all. Any advice on this is appreciated.
TIA,
CDM
Instructor
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 187
Likes: 0
From: Fort Drum New York
If this is the first time the joints have been replaced on the car, they will want to stay put. When we did our 81' half shafts it took a 12-ton press 
to get them out. The drive shaft joints looked good so we didnt replace them. *MOST* joints will come out with C-clamp encouragment, but some requre " ANOTHER NOTCH!" you could always try liquid wrench of some similar oil, but brute force has always worked best for me.
Robert
to get them out. The drive shaft joints looked good so we didnt replace them. *MOST* joints will come out with C-clamp encouragment, but some requre " ANOTHER NOTCH!" you could always try liquid wrench of some similar oil, but brute force has always worked best for me.Robert
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,161
Likes: 0
From: pr, frederick md.
c-clamp, penetrating oil, a big socket, maybe even some heat ( torch ) you can beat on them some, but make sure its supported real good or youll bend it. i noticed the flanges that hold the u-joints are real flimsy on a vette. i remember doing this on a gto and they were massive. i could beat on em' all day 
p.s. some cars have the u-joints kinda welded in with plastic. not sure if any vettes ever had this. you gotta melt it out most of the time
p.s. some cars have the u-joints kinda welded in with plastic. not sure if any vettes ever had this. you gotta melt it out most of the time
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Brute force is a sure way to bend something. The outer 1/2 shaft joints need a special support of the flanges or you will bend them.
I really hate pressing joints out. If you distort the yoke you have a problem.
I use a cutting torch and just cut the X out of the center of the joint. While hot I then use a air chissel and walk the old universal cut out. remember the x is gone.
Then I use a flapper wheel in a drill and polish the bores. debur the flange, clean out the groove and oil the bore.
I then hold the shaft in a vise and with a small brass hammer walk the universal cup into the yoke.
A universal cup is not that strong and forcing them into a bore distorts them. While they need a decent fit they so NOT need a press fit. Light pressure in a clean, oiled yoke is all that is needed. The clips hold the universal in, not the press fit.
For long life a universal should slide without much more then finger pressure into the yoke.
I really hate pressing joints out. If you distort the yoke you have a problem.
I use a cutting torch and just cut the X out of the center of the joint. While hot I then use a air chissel and walk the old universal cut out. remember the x is gone.
Then I use a flapper wheel in a drill and polish the bores. debur the flange, clean out the groove and oil the bore.
I then hold the shaft in a vise and with a small brass hammer walk the universal cup into the yoke.
A universal cup is not that strong and forcing them into a bore distorts them. While they need a decent fit they so NOT need a press fit. Light pressure in a clean, oiled yoke is all that is needed. The clips hold the universal in, not the press fit.
For long life a universal should slide without much more then finger pressure into the yoke.
but ive done this on so many cars and ive NEVER had one go in with finger pressure. fords , dodges, gm........never
Racer
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 453
Likes: 1
From: Austin TX
Austin Drivetrain off of Research does a pretty good job. They charge $7.50 labor per ujoint and carry greaseable spicers. Just had the cheapos removed from my half shafts and new spicers installed.
I've done them similar to the way norval described. If you end up doing them yourself make sure you don't get them too stiff when it all goes back together. I've had to grind the clips down a bit to get them in. So did the shop that just did mine.
GL
I've done them similar to the way norval described. If you end up doing them yourself make sure you don't get them too stiff when it all goes back together. I've had to grind the clips down a bit to get them in. So did the shop that just did mine.
GL
