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71 stalling on freeway

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Old Jan 11, 2006 | 06:04 PM
  #1  
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From: round rock tx
Default 71 stalling on freeway

I am stalling (bogging down) today. I rest it for a while and I go two more miles and stall again. At the end of thre trip I can not keep it going. I replaced the fuel pump a little while ago and now I will put a heat riser under the carb (Edlerbrock 1405 D 300)

It sounds like a vacumn leak and it sound like I run out of gass.

Help
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Old Jan 11, 2006 | 07:07 PM
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Did you replace the fuel filter along with the pump? Sounds like something restricting your fuel flow to me.
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Old Jan 11, 2006 | 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Red 69
Did you replace the fuel filter along with the pump? Sounds like something restricting your fuel flow to me.
Did you use a section of neoprene line to connect the steel fuel line to the fuel pump? Perhaps it's kinking? New fuel pump is no good? Float level problem (Holley carb)? Plugged fuel filter? Picking up sediment off the bottom of the fuel tank?

Just a couple of thoughts...
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Old Jan 12, 2006 | 09:46 AM
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with everyone else. Probably some sediment or gunk in the fuel line. I had a 66 Mustang that would do the same thing. I replaced the fuel filter and then I cranked the engine a time or two with the inline filter off and put an empty bottle over the fuel line. You should have seen the gunk come out! Seems like it would travel through the line, get to the filter, plug it up, cause the engine to stall and then travel back into the fuel line. So I suggest you replace the filter AND clean out the fuel line. Hope that will fix it.

Ken
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Old Jan 12, 2006 | 10:49 AM
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Don't forget the sock in the fuel tank. You can see it by opening the cap and shining a light into the tank. My bet is that you have some gunk in the tank and its inhibiting the flow of fuel.
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Old Jan 12, 2006 | 11:47 AM
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I have a 71 350/270 that did the same thing. It turned out to be water in the gas tank. I bought 2 or 3 of bottles of that tank treatment stuff and put it in my tank. That took care of it for me. Try it...it won't cost but $3 or $4 and I bet it will help.
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Old Jan 12, 2006 | 12:16 PM
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Also check to make sure your gas tank is venting properly. Next time itstalls, remove the gas cap right away. If you hear air rush in, your vent line is clogged. As a band aid, you could use a vented cap from a '68 or '69 until you find the reason for the clog.

The other suggestions regarding water in the gas are also very good ones.
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Old Jan 12, 2006 | 12:54 PM
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Just went through this again for the 3rd time... might be your problem, might not.

Been using my C3 as a daily driver... rain or shine.

Stalled on me in rush hour traffic 2 days ago when I came to a sudden stop. Next to impossible to restart.

After you have replaced the filter(s), use a flashlight to look down into the fuel tank near the sock.

Shake the car... look for water sitting in there under the fuel. If it's there, you will see the boundary line between the gas and the water.. it will move around.

I removed 2 cups of water using a brake bleeder cup and a 3 foot piece of brake line. You can't get all of it out because of limited sight distance and the tank ribs, but you can get a lot of it out. I figure there are 2 more cups of water in mine beyond the ribs.

This is getting old real fast.

The water gets past the gas filler cap when it rains hard. The boot drain is clear, but it can't keep up with a hard rain. The cap is not supposed to leak, but it does since it's a "vented" cap.

After I removed the water from the tank, I had to also remove the primary fuel bowl because the car would still stall when I accelerated or hit the brakes hard- water was in the carb & sloshing around.

When I took the bowl off, there was rust sediment from the corroded fuel bowl bolts (besides the water).

Replaced the filters as well (sintered bronze & in line F2111)
My "new" tank now has rust in it, which can get past most fuel filters, including the infamous sintered-bronze one.

Next tank will be stainless.

PS- "Gas Dryer" is good to use, but it is only good for an occasional teaspoon of water (condensation). When there is 1 quart of water in your tank, gas dryer is ineffective. I poured 3 bottles of it into my 1/4 full tank, and the water was still there. NFG. It wasn't designed to be used for a major flood.

Last edited by Tom454; Jan 12, 2006 at 12:59 PM.
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Old Jan 12, 2006 | 01:19 PM
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The dry gas thatyou want to look for (use) is the one that mixs the water and fuel and burns out thru the exhaust, there are two types, one is isopropyl and the other is ?????? one seperates the water (contaminate) and the other mixs it & sends it out the tail pipe,,, someone with a better memory will hopefully chime in to set you (and me) straight as to which is which,,,,Peace,, Moosie
as an aside,,, there usta be a prank where you'd put a condom, new and unwrapped into a foes gas tank, the motion created by the fuel sloshing around would eventually un-roll it and sooner or later it would wrap itself around the pick up sock and the car would stall,,,,,nasty and not very nice,,, but I am told, effective.

Last edited by moosie982; Jan 12, 2006 at 01:24 PM.
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Old Jan 12, 2006 | 07:49 PM
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From: round rock tx
Default 71 Stalling

Hi all, thanks for your replys.
I now have removed the carb top and cleaned it. I do not know how to measure floats but I cleaned the pins.
I added a gasket, plate, gasket, 1/2" heat riser, gasket, carb. I took out the filter and ran a straight line and tested the fuel pressure. must not know how to use the gauge as it registered 1.
I drained the fuel tank and cleaned the inside with rags, blew out the fuel line and the line into the tank and all is clear. I added dry gas and four gallons of gas.
I took it out for a run in the dark (round rock, tx) and it started to boug again but ran smooth back to home.
I will run it in the daylight and see if I fixed the problem, if it fails I will replace the new fuel pump tomorow.
Any more ideas?
larry
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Old Jan 12, 2006 | 07:51 PM
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Next time it stalls, check for gas at the carb and spark at the plugs. In addition to the many fuel checks mentioned above, you may have a coil that is going open/short with underhood temperature.
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Old Jan 13, 2006 | 12:55 PM
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From: round rock tx
Default 71 stalling, fixed it, thanks

Thanks for the advice and I tried all of your suggestion's except the coil, which I didnm't get to.

When I went under to the fuel pump I found a kinked rubber gas line. I fixed the line by shorting it and I am back in business.
I hope I did not screw up the carb (edlebrock 1405) by taking it apart becuase I am having a hard time getting it to idle perfectly.
thanks, Larry
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Old Jan 13, 2006 | 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Vicious_Cycle
Did you use a section of neoprene line to connect the steel fuel line to the fuel pump? Perhaps it's kinking?
Ooh- Ooh! What do I win?!
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Old Jan 13, 2006 | 02:31 PM
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I had the same problem last year and did all the cleaning stuff you did with no joy. As it turned out, the problem was the bronze filter in the carb inlet. I had it in backwards and it would clog with the smallest bit of dirt.
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