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Do I need a new intake?

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Old Jan 11, 2006 | 09:58 PM
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Default Do I need a new intake?

I posted a thread about the cylinder heads that I was thinking about getting. Here's the link to the thread: Cylinder Heads
I'm am pretty much sure that these will be the ones I go with. Do I need a new intake for these heads? I've heard good things about Weiand and Edelbrock. I am keeping the stock hood, so I would need something to fit under that, or I can get a drop base air cleaner as long as it fits over the Edelbrock carb. Stock is not an issue with the air cleaner as a lot of the engine bay has been redone. Just looking for some suggestions. Thanks again guys!
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Old Jan 11, 2006 | 10:53 PM
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Default Intakes are cheap.

Kind'a have to try a few to prove what works for u. Hey, with ur setup u may want to try a single plane like Edel's Torquer II or a Wieand. Hey Holley makes good dual and single planes too. It really is only a full days job to swap intakes. So barter at the local swap meets and thumb through the local penny trader/flyers for good used pieces and try a few. Take notes at the strip for results.
Here's a good book by D. Vizard called Carb's and Intakes - more than enough good ideas to pay for itself.

BTW i love my polished Performer Air-Gap and it fits under my '74's stock hood and aircleaner just fine.
cardo0
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Old Jan 12, 2006 | 10:39 AM
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ttt
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Old Jan 12, 2006 | 02:16 PM
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Okay, do I need a new intake? Will my Edelbrock Performer be fine? Will it hold it back? If it will be okay, then that's all I need to know. If I do need a new one, what will be the best choice? Dual Plane or Single Plane? Weiand, Holley, Edelbrock, or other?
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Old Jan 12, 2006 | 05:10 PM
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
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how is the rest of your set up.....i would make sure that i had the best HEI setup i could before i spent money on a new intake...and you do have headers, duals and an x pipe? the intake would be the last $$ i spent .... i would even get roller rockers first....
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Old Jan 12, 2006 | 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by bobs77vet
how is the rest of your set up.....i would make sure that i had the best HEI setup i could before i spent money on a new intake...and you do have headers, duals and an x pipe? the intake would be the last $$ i spent .... i would even get roller rockers first....
The link at the top of the thread in my first post goes to the thread about the cylinder heads where I've listed everything about the motor.
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Old Jan 12, 2006 | 11:40 PM
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
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ok if it was my money heres my observations...the carb is too small to warrant an intake upgrade...and your best next dollar investment will be to refresh your distributor with an upgrade, next an x or h pipe and then a bigger carb , i think you intake is fine.
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Old Jan 12, 2006 | 11:50 PM
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What size carb would you recommend? I just had the distributor replaced with a recurved stock points unit which should be fine. The motor won't be revving extremely high much of the time. I guess I will go ahead with the heads, do the roller rockers and pushrods while we're at it. Then, later down the road, I can replace the intake and carb with something more suitable for my application. I am in college, so I can't fork out a ridiculous amount of money at one time. I can do it all within a few months though once my bank account recovers from the book purchases I just made. Thanks for the help thus far. The heads should be on in a couple of weeks.
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Old Jan 13, 2006 | 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Fubba
Okay, do I need a new intake? Will my Edelbrock Performer be fine? Will it hold it back? If it will be okay, then that's all I need to know. If I do need a new one, what will be the best choice? Dual Plane or Single Plane? Weiand, Holley, Edelbrock, or other?

... I am in college, so I can't fork out a ridiculous amount of money at one time. ...
Your carb (600) & intake (dual plane) are fine for your setup. You have limited hood clearance on the 68-72 hoods.
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Old Jan 13, 2006 | 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Fubba
The link at the top of the thread in my first post goes to the thread about the cylinder heads where I've listed everything about the motor.
In my opinion, the Performer intake is ideal for your configuration. Unless you intend to make 400hp+, the Performer is an excellent intake. I run it on my warmed over 350 with DART Iron Eagle Heads. I've done very similar to my engine ('80) as yours and it is VERY responsive. It runs like a scalded dog.
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Old Jan 13, 2006 | 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by TedH
In my opinion, the Performer intake is ideal for your configuration. Unless you intend to make 400hp+, the Performer is an excellent intake. I run it on my warmed over 350 with DART Iron Eagle Heads. I've done very similar to my engine ('80) as yours and it is VERY responsive. It runs like a scalded dog.
That's what I needed to know. Thanks for all of your responses guys!
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Old Jan 13, 2006 | 09:10 AM
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
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Originally Posted by Ganey
Your carb (600) & intake (dual plane) are fine for your setup. You have limited hood clearance on the 68-72 hoods.


and if you are in college you will not like the gas bills with a bigger carburetor.....i would be focusing on reducing rolling resistance...like the roller rockers .....improving air flow with an x pipe...these things will make a difference and make what you have more efficient. my buddy has an edlebrock 600 and it works great and runs very well his only issue is over a sustained 4500 rpm it starts to fall short....but who drives like that all the time???? and his MPG is much better then my 750 speed demon
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Old Jan 13, 2006 | 11:19 AM
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Roller rocker arms are something I'd like to do now that I know the intake is fine. Do I need some type of kit? Or do I just get the roller rockers and pushrods? I've heard a lot about Comp Cams Roller Rockers but they seem kinda steep? Are there other brands that are just as good? I'm guessing 1.6 ratio? As you can tell, I don't know much about these. Can someone point me in the right direction?
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Old Jan 13, 2006 | 12:38 PM
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What are you going to use this car for?

BigBlockk

Later.....
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Old Jan 13, 2006 | 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by BigBlockk
What are you going to use this car for?

BigBlockk

Later.....
It is mainly a driver that is hammered on sometimes. The reason for the heads is that the original heads on the car need a lot of work. Valves keep needing readjustment, etc. I figured since I would need to do a good bit of work to them, I might as well upgrade to something that will help open this motor on up. Now, I'm just looking at a couple of minor things that will help me get this motor where I would like it to be such as the roller rocker arms.
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Old Jan 13, 2006 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Fubba
It is mainly a driver that is hammered on sometimes. The reason for the heads is that the original heads on the car need a lot of work. Valves keep needing readjustment, etc. I figured since I would need to do a good bit of work to them, I might as well upgrade to something that will help open this motor on up. Now, I'm just looking at a couple of minor things that will help me get this motor where I would like it to be such as the roller rocker arms.
If the valves constantly require adjustment, you may just need to replace the rocker locking nuts as they tend to loosen if reused more than once. If it isn't burning/leaking oil, the existing heads should be good for a mild performance engine that just gets hammered on occasion.

If you go with 1.6 rockers, remember that not only do you increase lift but you add duration which may negatively affect idle performance and low end torque.

In my experience with my '80 L48, the most significant, greatest performance gains to be realized short of installing better heads, cam, intake, carb and freer flowing exhaust with crossover are carb calibration and distributor advance adjustment favoring performance over emissions (oh, and include a good K&N filter). Second, after doing the first two, another step to immediate improvement in my opinion is a better cam paired with a higher stall converter (if automatic) and better (lower) gearing. I matched my Energizer Cam torque curve to my higher 1800rpm stall converter and 3.55 gearing. Then, if you still aren't satisfied, go for the cylinder heads and headers/dual exhaust with crossover.

Last edited by TedH; Jan 13, 2006 at 03:59 PM.
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Old Jan 13, 2006 | 03:19 PM
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
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and going with 1.5 ratios will just eliminate frictional losses....do you have screw in rocker arm studs or pressed in studs?
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Old Jan 13, 2006 | 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by TedH
If the valves constantly require adjustment, you may just need to replace the rocker locking nuts as they tend to loosen if reused more than once. If it isn't burning/leaking oil, the existing heads should be good for a mild performance engine that just gets hammered on occasion.

If you go with 1.6 rockers, remember that not only do you increase lift but you add duration which may negatively affect idle performance and low end torque.

In my experience with my '80 L48, the most significant, greatest performance gains to be realized short of installing better heads, cam, intake, carb and freer flowing exhaust with crossover are carb calibration and distributor advance adjustment favoring performance over emissions (oh, and include a good K&N filter). Second, after doing the first two, another step to immediate improvement in my opinion is a better cam paired with a higher stall converter (if automatic) and better (lower) gearing. I matched my Energizer Cam torque curve to my higher 1800rpm stall converter and 3.55 gearing. Then, if you still aren't satisfied, go for the cylinder heads and headers/dual exhaust with crossover.
It does in fact burn oil. White smoke when cranked and when you get on it. So the heads do need a reworking anyway. I'm actually waiting on a local Corvette shop to build me a 3.55 rear end. Torque converter will also go on at this time.

Bob,
As far as the screw-in or pressed-in studs, it's whatever was stock so I'm assuming pressed?
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Old Jan 13, 2006 | 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Fubba
It is mainly a driver that is hammered on sometimes. The reason for the heads is that the original heads on the car need a lot of work. Valves keep needing readjustment, etc. I figured since I would need to do a good bit of work to them, I might as well upgrade to something that will help open this motor on up. Now, I'm just looking at a couple of minor things that will help me get this motor where I would like it to be such as the roller rocker arms.
I would go to GM Parts Direct and get the heads then use the manifold I already had. Better yet, go to eBay and get a reconditioned set. Anything with the word "trick" in the name just sounds too flaky. The AFR 180's are a better head. Even with a little lower compression ratio I'll bet they would make just as much HP and you could run cheaper gasoline. The AFR 180 has the widest range of application of any Small Block Chevy head.

BigBlockk

Later.....
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Old Jan 13, 2006 | 09:24 PM
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
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Originally Posted by Fubba
Bob,
As far as the screw-in or pressed-in studs, it's whatever was stock so I'm assuming pressed?
don't some of the roller rockers require screw in studs????
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