I'm rebuilding my 390HP 427 and would like to acheive 430HP when finished. I will be adding hooker header sidepipes,balance/blueprint, roller cam. I would like to keep the original alluminum intake with a holley dual feed carb that is not original. The engine was already rebuilt once and bored 30 over, im figuring on boring it again to 60 with new pistons. Without getting to carried away does anyone have suggestions to reach my goal of 430HP?

 

Your goal is very low! I would not spend the money on a roller cam for such a mild build up.

You really need to go to book store and get a book on building big block Chevy's. All the advice in the world won't do you any good if you don't understand what they are talking about.

 

Doing the same thing. Can you reccomend one ?

 

Summit racing sells a whole line of books also. The HP series of hot rodding big blocks does a pretty good job of telling you about every component and how they work.

When you talking roller cams your cost is going to be $1500 and up. A settup like mine is @ $2000 just in parts.

 

The only reason for the roller cam is a buddy of mine just had a 70 454 rebuilt for his corvette and did'nt even have 3000mi. before a new none roller cam whent bad he said he wishes he would have installed a roller.
Even though its 1500.00 its cheap insurance.

 

His cam didn't go bad because it wasn't a roller. There is a break-in proceedure to follow with new flat tappet cams. 430hp should be a piece of cake without a roller.

 

With good heads and a decent performance cam you'll have trouble not exceeding your goal. Is there a reason you want to limit the power?

 

BTW Roller cams won't cost you 1500.00 either.. I'm putting together a mild 327 that's going to make close to your number for your rebuild.. The cam that I'm using has the same price whether it's the BB or SB version...
http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/produ...Group2868=4876

Here is a conservative estimate of what can be done with a SB...

 

Ya, the $630 only gets you cam and lifters. How about matching quality timing set, roller timing cover, pushrods, quality roller rockers, springs, stud girdle, nice retainers

 

If you're rebuilding the motor shouldn't you be replacing this stuff any way so where is the extra price? The timing cover for a roller is only needed if you don't already have a reinforced one. The Stewart pump has a bolt that you screw down to prevent timing chain cover flex. The pushrods should be replaced if you are rebuilding the motor, the Pro Magnum roller rockers are only 100 more than the Forged roller rockers and well worth the price. Also if doing a rebuild what is the difference on buying springs are you going to reuse those old springs that were on the heads? I don't see the question really? Doing a quality rebuild on any motor is going to run 4-6k with that including the machine work but not the labor for the actual rebuild. Maybe I just look at it different..

Here is a little list that I've got going with what I've ordered so far for mine. This is what I think a rebuild should look like..
AFR 195 68cc Straight plug heads p/n AFR-1034 w/ 7/16 studs p/n 6411 w/ springs p/n 8032 $1269.00
Comp Cams XR270HR CL kit CL12-422-8 635.00
Pro Magnum 7/16 1.5 rockers p/n 1304-16 $270.00
Eagle ESP H-beam rods p/n CRS5700B3D $335.00
SRP Forged flat top pistons p/n SRP-138082 $451.00
Clevite 77 Small journal std mains bearings p/n 695-MS429P $34.99
Clevite 77 Large journal std rods bearings 695-CB758P30 $47.99
JE Piston rings 1/16, 1/16, 3/16 plasma moly std tension p/n S100S8-4040-5
Centerforce flywheel p/n 183-700100
standard GM 1-1/8 dia x 26 spline input shaft then the number is 183-CFT361675 for the pressure plate and 183-384161 for the disk.
Head Bolt Kit 070-134-3601 49.99
Motor Mount Bolts 070-130-3102 8.99
Oil Pump Stud 070-230-7001 4.99
Fuel Pump Pushrod 070-134-8701 14.99
Motor Mounts (2) 355-3-1114G 59.98
Timing Cover 555-50306 29.99
Balancer 388-670100 159.99
Pointer 555-51263 24.99
Dura Bond Cam Bearings DUR-CHP-8 19.88
Oil Pan Stock Milodon MIL-3700 75.88
Oil Pump Baffle Moroso MOR-23000 4.95
Oil Pump Melling Standard MEL-M55 16.88
Oil Pump Drive Shaft ARP-134-7901 13.88
Balancer Bolt ARP-134-2501 18.88
Flywheel Bolts ARP-134-2802 9.88
Pressure Plate Bolts ARP-134-2201 9.95
220-9-3100A Adjustable Timing Set 99.99
249-4605 Comp Cams Lock Plate 5.99
249-200 Comp Cams Roller Cam Button 9.99
312-P4286829 Plastigauge 7.99
070-134-5501 ARP Main Studs 49.99
249-152 Comp Cams Assembly Lube 6.99

 

Before I would spend money on a roller cam, I'd spend it on some real good heads and use a solid flat tappet. You can be well over 500 hp without much issue with good heads.

Roller cams don't have trouble breaking in, they have trouble living a long life. You have to pay close attention to them.

I'm talking solid roller here...not hyd rollers. Hyd rollers typically aren't going to rev to where a 427 will wont to go.

But a nice set of heads and a solid street roller will make LOTS of streetable HP....550-575 is possible without much effort.

JIM

 

 

what kind of 430 hp are you talking about? Your engine was rated 390 gross hp from the factory. Headers, carb and timing could possibly get you up to 430 hp gross rated the same way. 430 net would be a bigger number. 430 hp at the rear wheels would be a worthwhile goal.

 

Two points to make, 1) There have been noted failures for non-roller cams since certain elements have been taken out of gas to make it burn cleaner (because of fuel injection). Talk with Comp or Crane Cams to get the info on this. Roller cams wear less once they are broken in if done correctly. In fact, most new cars have some form of roller cam. 2) It does cost more but I have seen a big difference. I have a 355 ci with a roller cam. Revs so fast it scares me. I had to put a 6000 rpm plug into my MSD box to keep from red lining. I think it was worth the extra time and money. The retro-fit kit from Comp Cams installed without a problem. I bought a reinforced cam cover for only a few more dollars. A cam button is needed to keep the Cam from "moving out". Lots of articles on the web about this (Chevy HP, Super Chevy, etc). If you have the extra $300 then it is worth it. One other suggestion, I kept my intake and that was a mistake. I am in the process of replacing my intake now and expect another 15 to 25 hp.

 

Tim,
I think there are some small details missing from the comparison between aftermarket roller cams and OEM roller cams. The biggest one is that OEM engines are designed for a roller cam. What's the big deal? As far as wear, it's the alignment between the roller lifter and the camshaft lobe. If the roller on the lifter is not parallel with the cam lobe, you are going to cause some wear. The OEM engines are designed with lifter retainers that have extremely tight tolerances for keeping the lifters inline with the cam. If the aftermarket conversions don't do the same thing, the end result will be people having wear issues and blaming it on the fact that they had a roller lifter.

As for the HP claims from the 60's, they aren't even close. I rebuilt my 390HP BB to basically factory specs (I have an HEI, roller rockers, and a few more degrees of duration). My engine makes right around 260HP breathing through the stock intake and 2" exhaust. I have confirmed this number with a chassis dyno (Mustang, not Dynojet), 1/4 mile time, and Desktop Dyno. The Desktop Dyno says I can gain 100HP with headers and mild port work.

I hear everyone saying the BB should be good for an easy 500HP, but I would also like to see some more detailed specs. This is the only engine I have built, so I would like to see some cam numbers and dyno sheets if possible. I wouldn't mind adding some HP to my car.

Ken

 

So the 260 hp is at the rear wheels? What is your 1/4 mile time.. trap speed actually, and race weight? Sounds like headers and exhaust would be your first and most cost effective step. I trap at 106 mph, and car is around 3550 lbs with me in it. I think that is just over 300 rwhp.

 

I agrre with gkull a roller setup will cost a heil of alot more than a flat tappet setup

Flat tappet swap, sometimes you can use the same springs but I am going to count that anyway. Pushrods are almost always re-used. Timing cover is re- used. Rocker arms are ususally re-used SO:

Comp Cam : $100
Comp Cam lifters :$65
Comp Cam single springs : $60

Total : $225

Roller Setup, you need to go to full roller rockers, 0.80" wall pushrods is a good thing to be using, a timing cover that you can properly adjust endplay like the Cloyes 2 pc. adjustable is a wise thing to purchase.:

Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller cam and lifters $635
Pro Magnum Roller Rockers : $260
CC 0.80" wall pushrods : $110
Comp Cams double springs : $125
Cloyes timing set : $!00

Total $1230

There are many little things like valve stem caps, lighter retainers, 10 deg locks etc. that can easily put you into $1500 just like gkull says

 

No, that's at the crank. My best 1/4 mile time is 14.0 at 99. I'm not positive on my cars weight, I used a weight I found here. I am going to have to do the exhaust. Then I can find out for sure what the gains will be.

Ken