Rebuilt Trailing Arm - no end play now
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 220
Likes: 0
From: Flushing MI
Rebuilt Trailing Arm - no end play now
Before pressing bearings on the spindal I used a setup tool and set endplay to .0018. I had light oil on bearings at that time. I greased the bearings and packed hub ,then reassembled . I do not feel any binding but when I go to check endplay I have none. 
Should the grease cause me problems rechecking endplay? I did hook up a drill and spin it a little but that did not help.
Carl
Should the grease cause me problems rechecking endplay? I did hook up a drill and spin it a little but that did not help. Carl
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 758
Likes: 14
From: Ville de la Baie Quebec. A winner is just a loser who tried again.
Interesting,,,, I'm in the process of doing the same thing,, just made a set up tool at work today,, I do remember reading something about loosing or gaining on end play after packing the bearings,, serched for it without luck,, maybe somebody will explain this.....I'll be keeping an eye on your thread....... 
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 220
Likes: 0
From: Flushing MI
Originally Posted by Michel B
,, I do remember reading something about loosing or gaining on end play after packing the bearings,, serched for it without luck,, maybe somebody will explain this.....I'll be keeping an eye on your thread.......
I thought I heard that too. The only difference is I used a press to press on the bearings. I don't think I had applied excessive force on the bearings. Anyhow I would think the spacer would limit it.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,187
Likes: 4,008
From: Connecticut, USA
The grease will stop the movement unless you really jump on it. If you correctly set the endplay to .0018" with spindle oil and the nut was torqued to 100 ft/lbs you should be ok. No need to use a drill, spin by hand it should be smooth,no binding.
I did one today too, the first shim I setup was .001" but I like to get a little more so i fit a new shim to .0015-.002" max. I spent more time dialing in the rotor on this one. Sometimes it's a 15 minute job to dial in others a lot longer. Final TRO was set at .002" with the flat head holding it so it should stay there regardless of the lug nuts.
Good job, have a beer and start the other one!!
I did one today too, the first shim I setup was .001" but I like to get a little more so i fit a new shim to .0015-.002" max. I spent more time dialing in the rotor on this one. Sometimes it's a 15 minute job to dial in others a lot longer. Final TRO was set at .002" with the flat head holding it so it should stay there regardless of the lug nuts.
Good job, have a beer and start the other one!!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 220
Likes: 0
From: Flushing MI
Originally Posted by gtr1999
The grease will stop the movement unless you really jump on it. If you correctly set the endplay to .0018" with spindle oil and the nut was torqued to 100 ft/lbs you should be ok. No need to use a drill, spin by hand it should be smooth,no binding.
I did one today too, the first shim I setup was .001" but I like to get a little more so i fit a new shim to .0015-.002" max. I spent more time dialing in the rotor on this one. Sometimes it's a 15 minute job to dial in others a lot longer. Final TRO was set at .002" with the flat head holding it so it should stay there regardless of the lug nuts.
Good job, have a beer and start the other one!!
I did one today too, the first shim I setup was .001" but I like to get a little more so i fit a new shim to .0015-.002" max. I spent more time dialing in the rotor on this one. Sometimes it's a 15 minute job to dial in others a lot longer. Final TRO was set at .002" with the flat head holding it so it should stay there regardless of the lug nuts.
Good job, have a beer and start the other one!!
Now on to the other side
Carl
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 220
Likes: 0
From: Flushing MI
Originally Posted by gtr1999
The grease will stop the movement unless you really jump on it. If you correctly set the endplay to .0018" with spindle oil and the nut was torqued to 100 ft/lbs you should be ok. No need to use a drill, spin by hand it should be smooth,no binding.
I did one today too, the first shim I setup was .001" but I like to get a little more so i fit a new shim to .0015-.002" max. I spent more time dialing in the rotor on this one. Sometimes it's a 15 minute job to dial in others a lot longer. Final TRO was set at .002" with the flat head holding it so it should stay there regardless of the lug nuts.
Good job, have a beer and start the other one!!
I did one today too, the first shim I setup was .001" but I like to get a little more so i fit a new shim to .0015-.002" max. I spent more time dialing in the rotor on this one. Sometimes it's a 15 minute job to dial in others a lot longer. Final TRO was set at .002" with the flat head holding it so it should stay there regardless of the lug nuts.
Good job, have a beer and start the other one!!
Now on to the other side
Carl
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 6,134
Likes: 46
From: Raleigh North Carolina
One more thought to consider...
I started doing these bearings about 30 years ago with a 12 ton press.
A few years back, I purchased a 20 ton press.
I developed a "feel" for the 12 ton press such that I could tell when the bearings, spacer & shim stacked up. The first time I used the 20 ton press, I lost .0005 to .001 in bearing end play. Starting at .0015, it was now down to about .0005.. almost not measurable.
It was a lot easier for the 20 ton press to stack up the parts, and I over-did it, losing some endplay. That set of bearings is on my own C3... one at -0- endplay.
The 100 ft lbs of the nut is no competition for a 20 ton press.
You have to develop a "feel" for a press & know when to stop.
Even using the bearing setup tool has its quirks. After torqueing the nut to 100 ft lbs, the amount of pressure you exert on the end of the tool to get a dial indicator reading can cause a variance.
If you allow the spindle or tool to rotate even slightly while taking your dial indicator reading, you can get bogus numbers due to the unevenness of the tool and/or spindle. The assembly must remain perfectly stable when you take the reading.
You'd think it was a science, not an art.
If you approach a wall, and each step is one-half the previous step, will you ever reach the wall?
I started doing these bearings about 30 years ago with a 12 ton press.
A few years back, I purchased a 20 ton press.
I developed a "feel" for the 12 ton press such that I could tell when the bearings, spacer & shim stacked up. The first time I used the 20 ton press, I lost .0005 to .001 in bearing end play. Starting at .0015, it was now down to about .0005.. almost not measurable.
It was a lot easier for the 20 ton press to stack up the parts, and I over-did it, losing some endplay. That set of bearings is on my own C3... one at -0- endplay.
The 100 ft lbs of the nut is no competition for a 20 ton press.
You have to develop a "feel" for a press & know when to stop.
Even using the bearing setup tool has its quirks. After torqueing the nut to 100 ft lbs, the amount of pressure you exert on the end of the tool to get a dial indicator reading can cause a variance.
If you allow the spindle or tool to rotate even slightly while taking your dial indicator reading, you can get bogus numbers due to the unevenness of the tool and/or spindle. The assembly must remain perfectly stable when you take the reading.
You'd think it was a science, not an art.
If you approach a wall, and each step is one-half the previous step, will you ever reach the wall?
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Every 2027 Corvette Engine Explained
Joe Kucinski
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Verdad Gallardo
10 Ugly Corvettes That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 220
Likes: 0
From: Flushing MI
Originally Posted by Tom454
One more thought to consider...
I started doing these bearings about 30 years ago with a 12 ton press.
A few years back, I purchased a 20 ton press.
I developed a "feel" for the 12 ton press such that I could tell when the bearings, spacer & shim stacked up. The first time I used the 20 ton press, I lost .0005 to .001 in bearing end play. Starting at .0015, it was now down to about .0005.. almost not measurable.
It was a lot easier for the 20 ton press to stack up the parts, and I over-did it, losing some endplay. That set of bearings is on my own C3... one at -0- endplay.
The 100 ft lbs of the nut is no competition for a 20 ton press.
You have to develop a "feel" for a press & know when to stop.
Even using the bearing setup tool has its quirks. After torqueing the nut to 100 ft lbs, the amount of pressure you exert on the end of the tool to get a dial indicator reading can cause a variance.
If you allow the spindle or tool to rotate even slightly while taking your dial indicator reading, you can get bogus numbers due to the unevenness of the tool and/or spindle. The assembly must remain perfectly stable when you take the reading.
You'd think it was a science, not an art.
If you approach a wall, and each step is one-half the previous step, will you ever reach the wall?
I started doing these bearings about 30 years ago with a 12 ton press.
A few years back, I purchased a 20 ton press.
I developed a "feel" for the 12 ton press such that I could tell when the bearings, spacer & shim stacked up. The first time I used the 20 ton press, I lost .0005 to .001 in bearing end play. Starting at .0015, it was now down to about .0005.. almost not measurable.
It was a lot easier for the 20 ton press to stack up the parts, and I over-did it, losing some endplay. That set of bearings is on my own C3... one at -0- endplay.
The 100 ft lbs of the nut is no competition for a 20 ton press.
You have to develop a "feel" for a press & know when to stop.
Even using the bearing setup tool has its quirks. After torqueing the nut to 100 ft lbs, the amount of pressure you exert on the end of the tool to get a dial indicator reading can cause a variance.
If you allow the spindle or tool to rotate even slightly while taking your dial indicator reading, you can get bogus numbers due to the unevenness of the tool and/or spindle. The assembly must remain perfectly stable when you take the reading.
You'd think it was a science, not an art.
If you approach a wall, and each step is one-half the previous step, will you ever reach the wall?
When pressing on the inner bearing, it did not go as smooth as the outer. It was jerkier. I used a wooden block under the hub. Next time I will use a metal block and take baby steps. What I get from you and Gary, it looks like I can still use the one I completed.
Thanks for the input.
Carl
