When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
have you talked to any of the component manufacturers?
when i first installed my jacobs system, they recommended opening my plugs up to .065 and go up in .005 increments till i got detonation and then back off .005.
.045 is nothing for a high powered ignition. i've been to SEMA a couple times and both jacobs and MSD show their coils jumping a 1/2" (or more) gap. after all, that's the part of the reason you install a high output ignition, right? get more mixture between the electrodes. at least, that was my thinking.
open it up to .070 just for S&G. worst case scenario, it doesn't start.
hell just open up a couple and see if they cross fire. then you might have your answer.
We're IMO. With a tighter gap,tlhere is LESS opportunity for the energy to dissapate in another area besides the spark gap. I think the "Light show" is static electricity. Prove it by touching the wires where you see the tiny spark. I am betting you won't feel a thing. (I hope)...lol. Ever play with one of those static generators in High School science class? It generates a good spark, but you don't get zapped. It's energy is too low. Like I said in an earlier post, I think the missing out is caused by something else. We see "cross-fires" on our shop 'scope, usually on C-4's with bad opti-spark distributors. You can see several extra spikes per engine revolution.
have you talked to any of the component manufacturers?
when i first installed my jacobs system, they recommended opening my plugs up to .065 and go up in .005 increments till i got detonation and then back off .005.
.045 is nothing for a high powered ignition. i've been to SEMA a couple times and both jacobs and MSD show their coils jumping a 1/2" (or more) gap. after all, that's the part of the reason you install a high output ignition, right? get more mixture between the electrodes. at least, that was my thinking.
open it up to .070 just for S&G. worst case scenario, it doesn't start.
hell just open up a couple and see if they cross fire. then you might have your answer.
have you talked to any of the component manufacturers?
when i first installed my jacobs system, they recommended opening my plugs up to .065 and go up in .005 increments till i got detonation and then back off .005.
.045 is nothing for a high powered ignition. i've been to SEMA a couple times and both jacobs and MSD show their coils jumping a 1/2" (or more) gap. after all, that's the part of the reason you install a high output ignition, right? get more mixture between the electrodes. at least, that was my thinking.
open it up to .070 just for S&G. worst case scenario, it doesn't start.
hell just open up a couple and see if they cross fire. then you might have your answer.
REPLY: I opened up the gap to .055" and still the same wire-arching occurs. Im going to take Big G's advise i think, and, look elsewhere ; im going to replace the Distributor module with a new one i have AND put on some hi temp plastic wire seperators when they come in from Jegs. I did touch the wires when it was dark outside, and, i didnt get shocked but i was able to light up the wire right where i pressed down on it. Im going to get to the bottom of this if it kills me (even if its by 40,000 volts of DC power !) . He he.
do you know for sure it's crossfire? or could it be misfire? i would think that true crossfire, especially at high RPMs could result in new forms of crank case ventilation....
do you know for sure it's crossfire? or could it be misfire? i would think that true crossfire, especially at high RPMs could result in new forms of crank case ventilation....
REPLY: Here is what it is : In the dark, i can see some of my wires lighting up at times for about 2" in length as well as spark going to ground (chrome oil dipstick, braided hose, etc..) on a couple of wires. If i lift up the wire(s) so they dont touch anything metal, they dont ground out. The idle seems to be quite smooth, but when i get to 2500 rpms and higher, i get a continual miss that noticeable . So far i have the following which is brand new ; Jabobs Ceramic Wires with hi temp protective socks on which are very close to the Headers, Mallory Distributor Cap, Mallory Rotor, have shined up the motor-frame ground strap and battery to frame neg. wire, removed every bit of anti-seize which i coated the plug threads with, seperated #5 and 7 wires, and returned the plug opening to .035" . When the plastic wire seperators come in , im going to throw them on making sure the wires dont touch any metal objects, and Ill changeout the Distributor Module as well. Will report my findings in a couple more days. Thanks.
Dave,
This may sound crazy, but maybe your arching problem is just a bad set of wires...that 2" section lighting up sounds damned suspicious to me...if you aren't in the poor house by now, I'd buy a set of copper core wires (if they still make them anymore) and substitue just one side of the engine, leaving the ceramic wires on the other side. If the copper wire side stops arching, it's the wires, which I now think is your problem..you may not like your radio reception after, but it shouldn't arch with copper core, all the arch should go straight to the plugs...as far as grabbing the 40k volt wire...it's the amps that'll kill ya, not the volts..you had to have one hand on a frame/engine ground to get a shock...not a fiberglass fender...you've tried just about everything else, gotta be the wires themselves....does this make sense to you?
Dave,
This may sound crazy, but maybe your arching problem is just a bad set of wires...that 2" section lighting up sounds damned suspicious to me...if you aren't in the poor house by now, I'd buy a set of copper core wires (if they still make them anymore) and substitue just one side of the engine, leaving the ceramic wires on the other side. If the copper wire side stops arching, it's the wires, which I now think is your problem..you may not like your radio reception after, but it shouldn't arch with copper core, all the arch should go straight to the plugs...as far as grabbing the 40k volt wire...it's the amps that'll kill ya, not the volts..you had to have one hand on a frame/engine ground to get a shock...not a fiberglass fender...you've tried just about everything else, gotta be the wires themselves....does this make sense to you?
REPLY: Makes darn good sense actually. I ordered a set of MSD Super Conductor copper core wires and will try them out . Dont care much about the radio as i enjoy the exhaust sound . I shall advise. Thanks, Dave
I once had a similar problem with a MSD Coil mounted horizontal, apparently they must be mounted vertically. This drove us crazy as we did a similar thing to you, trying everything. Mounting the coil vertically, it was fine.
REPLY: Makes darn good sense actually. I ordered a set of MSD Super Conductor copper core wires and will try them out . Dont care much about the radio as i enjoy the exhaust sound . I shall advise. Thanks, Dave
REPLY:
PROBLEM SOLVED ! I put on a set of MSD SUper Conductor copper core wires and no arching to ground or to one another . They were half the price of the Jacobs Ceramic wires too. Just for reference : The Jacobs wires will NOT work well with an MSD6 box and MSD-HVC2 high output Coil ; they cant handle the voltage. Thanks to all. Dave.