It's been some 30 years since i've witnessed or done the seal change...I vaguely remember bringing each cylinder to where both valves are closed, then pulling the spark plug and putting a pressure connector in the plug hole and putting pressure on the cylinder so the valves don't drop into the cylinder...then changing the seals...
Is my memory warped or am I in the ball park..

 

Thats the kind of thing I used to do. Had an old spark plug and broke it so I could weld on the air line connector. worked like a dream.

 

OK...you used to do that way...is there a 21st century way to do it or is this just the way everyone has always done it.."if it ain't broke don't fix it" kind of thing?

 

That's it, however sometimes you'll get a retainer that really sticks and I've inserted a screw driver into the cylinder to wedge a valve then re-apply air pressure.

Chris

 

Most of the compression tester kits have a fitting/hose just for this. One thing to watch out for, especially if turning the motor over using a breaker bar on the crank, is when you put the air to the cylinder the motor may turn over. In other words the air will force piston to the bottom of the bore. You can also bring the piston to TDC and fill the cylinder with a piece of rope that fits through the spark plug hole. Feed the rope through until the combustion area is filled, the rope will keep the valve from falling into the cylinder. Another little hint (and be careful doing this) is to take a rubber/plastic headed dead blow hammer and tap the edge of the retainer on one side. This will help break the "seal" where the locks fit inside the retainer. The reason to use caution here is you want to hit the reatiner hard enough to help free the lock from the retainer but not hard enough to drive the valve into the piston and possibly bending a valve. After reassembling I also use the same hammer to hit the top of the valve stem squarely to make sure the locks are properly seated in the retainer.

ltlevil

 

OK, guys, thanks for the advise...as I recall there is a tool to remove the retainers...a spring compressor, if you will...but I guess we're talking about sticky retainers...as I said, I've done the job, or at least was involved in the job, so it's not a strange project, just been a long time ago...
Thanks for the input...

 

That's the way it is still done. Tip: put out $5.00 or so for a telescoping magnetic pickup tool for use with the keepers when the springs are compressed. Nothing worse than seeing one disappear down an oil return passage.

 

You still have to use the spring compressor, but the quick whack with the hammer helps "unseat" the retainer to lock fit. This is especially helpful when using the air method to hold the valves in place and the handle type spring compressor. The handle type presses down on the retainer to expose the lock, however with nothing under the valve to offer any resistence (other than air presure), it is very easy to push the whole valve down and not free the locks from the retainer. Hope I'm making sense, if not PM me and I'll see if I can make a skectch to show you what I'm trying to explain. It's really not that bad of a job once you can actually get to the valves.

ltlevil

 

Do a search on this. There's a ton of info waiting to be absorbed....

 

Nope.."I got it now, Robbie"...no need for a sketch, this is not a new experience, just trying to shake the cobwebs out of the ole' grey matter..Thanks all for the input

 

Glad you got it, sometimes when trying to explain something, I have the same problem an old car of mine had. Motor was revving up but the clutch wasn't engaged to make the car move. Same thing with my brain and hands at times Be sure and let us know how everything works out.

ltlevil