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Running Braided Fuel Line

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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 01:39 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Monty
I filled it with water, letting it run over for quite a while. After draining the water, I backpurged the tank with argon prior to welding on it.
All this is unnecessary. I son worked for a summer at a rad repair shop and they did gas tanks all the time. They never perged a tank longer then 5 minutes , and never did anything but a shop vac on blow.
Some of the times guys got in a hurry and gave it no more then a few minutes and never did one blow up.
I have done quit a few and never had the slightest problem with using the blow through method.
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 01:44 PM
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the argon purge is not to clear out the fumes, it's to make sure that the back of the weld area is purged with shielding gas also.
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
the argon purge is not to clear out the fumes, it's to make sure that the back of the weld area is purged with shielding gas also.
For puging you need to have a steady supply of shielding gas. Monty did this when welding up his exhuast for the turbos. If he was burging the tank you need to seal off the openings and have a steady supply of argon going to the tank..
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
Some of the times guys got in a hurry and gave it no more then a few minutes and never did one blow up.
I have done quit a few and never had the slightest problem with using the blow through method.

It only takes once


Sorry couldn't resist.
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackRat
SmoakedTires, If you didn't weld it how is the fitting sealed?

Thanks
Wade
I did the same thing as Smoked. The fittings come with a gasket that seals perfectly. You need to locate the fitting on a flat area.

Actually, all the lines are meant to be assembled without any sealant, so a gasket is just another dry joint just like the fittings.
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 09:18 AM
  #26  
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I back purged the tank for 2 reasons: 1. Safety - it might be unnecessary but it made me feel more comfortable with welding on a fuel tank. It's my life and limbs and I'd do anything I can to minimize the risks. 2. To backpurge the welds to ensure a quality weld on the inside without sugaring, same thing I did with the headers. All the holes are blocked off - in this case with AN caps on the sump fittings and tape around the filler hole where I had a tube from a second argon tank inserted, sealing it off as effectively as possible.
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 10:09 AM
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I thought you had the headers built by Fast Times...shows how much I know
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 11:16 AM
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You know alot . Fast Times is just a machine shop. All they do is custom engine building/machine work. They don't work on cars.
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 11:28 AM
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I thought back purging was only necessary on stainless steel.
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 11:43 AM
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It's most common with stainless and titanium, but you can backpurge when welding any material where it's practical. In this case, I probably wouldn't have backpurged since it's mildsteel if not for the fact that it's a fuel tank and the backpurging has the potential to displace any vapor with an inert gas. It was mostly a safety precaution in this situation, but also provided the opportunity for a better weld, which is not a bad thing on a fuel tank.
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 07:22 PM
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Your methods sound bulletproof, did you fill the entire tank with shielding gas, or did you fill it with mostly water and purge the remaining space, or? Just curious mostly, when I was troubleshooting some EFI problems I was thinking that I might have to add a sump.
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 07:50 PM
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It's not worth adding the water. Trust me a half hour of purging with normal air from a shop vac is more then enough. Remember shops use 5 minutes and then put a flame on a tank.
The first one will bother you but after a few you gain confidence in simple burging.
Argon gas is expensive and most people don't have access to it. Carbon dioxide works the same for purging and cost alot less.
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 07:57 PM
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even cheaper....hook it to a compessed air source and let it vent for a couple of minutes, the gas conc. will have dropped way below the level required for a flame (and certainly an explosion)
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 08:06 PM
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I washed mine out and used sealer. I also had to epoxy a few holes also. This should last long enough untill i get a fuel cell.
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 08:37 PM
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I'm liking the idea of that welded-on sump for my EFI conversion.
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 09:01 PM
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Default I just filled mine up with water....

when I was grinding on it....fairly painless and then I wiped it clean and blew it dry.

Batman, you might want to consider one of those self contained reservoir type fuel pumps for your efi conversion. There are quite a few stock vehicles that use them nowadays...and no need to make a sump. Take a peek at my corvette pics for just one sample of such.
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 09:10 PM
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carriljc, did you manage to get the stock sending unit and the Bronco pump to work together? What's the flow rate and fuel pressure with it? How much fuel is held in the reservoir? It looks like a slick install.
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 09:19 PM
  #38  
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Default Stock sending unit is still there...

...and works fine; doesn't get in the way. I just sealed the outlet tubing to the mechanical fuel pump.

The info below is from the Napa website:
Attributes:
Fuel Pump Tank Seal #:Included
Gallons Per Hour:33
Pressure Rating:45
http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=NFP&P artNumber=P74107&Description=Fuel+Pump+( OE+Electric+In-Tank+Type)

This was almost exactly the requirements per the RamJet manual...and I already own a Bronco so I knew what it was like.
There are other examples self-contained reservoir type pumps....I discovered that when I was doing research....don't remember anymore....
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by carriljc
when I was grinding on it....fairly painless and then I wiped it clean and blew it dry.

Batman, you might want to consider one of those self contained reservoir type fuel pumps for your efi conversion. There are quite a few stock vehicles that use them nowadays...and no need to make a sump. Take a peek at my corvette pics for just one sample of such.
Now that's an elegant solution, even if it is a F**D (no offense). How well does it function, will it pump the tank as low as the stock setup?

Last edited by shafrs3; Jan 25, 2006 at 09:33 PM.
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 09:45 PM
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Default works fine, lasts a long time, don't rust...

bust, or collect dust.....it has actually worked out just great. I've run the Tunerpro program on my laptop to monitor my engine and it satisifes everything I can see. I've run the car until I was out of gas (luckily in my driveway) and it sucked the dang tank dry before it quit!

I used the Bronco fuel pump because I had a spare for my Bronco and I knew what size it was. I just had to grind a bit around the edge of the big inlet hole...and it dropped right in. I knew I needed something other than just suction on tank; I learned that when I had a Holley Projection unit and it would lose suction if I was less than 1/4 tank and took a sharp turn.

I just went and took a peek at the napa site; here's 94 LT1 5.7L pump that has a reservoir and more capacity and higher pressure capability.

Attributes:
Fuel Pump Tank Seal #:Included
Gallons Per Hour:55
Pressure Rating:90-95
Strainer Part Number:STS-7

and here's the website:

http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=NFP&P artNumber=P74131&Description=Fuel+Pump+( OE+Electric+In-Tank+Type)
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