Sure it is part of a 3 link suspension but it has no leverage effect on the job it is doing. It is also a very loose slopy link. The pin takes a beating, the yokes wear badly. It is a poor link.
Try taking a broom handle, hold it is the very center with your fist. Now get a little lid to pull down on one end.
You are not strong enough to hold that small kid?? It is all about leverage and anything that holds in the center doesn't really hold much. It is a falcrum for something else.
1/2 shafts as linkage is a poor attempt. A 6 link is far superior.

 

Kid on the stick= Moment arm...

 

Sorry I missed your post 'till now. I did this on the after market offset arm, used 3/16" plate steel to fabricate the ears and the bracing to tie the top of the arm where the sway bar bolts, to the bottom of the arm where the upper part of the spring bolt and cushion rests. The sway bar is an after market unit I relocated forward slightly; it's been awhile since I did this, can't remember the reasoning for the relocation.

Gordonm, Here is another pic...

Guys, I understand your point of introducing a moment arm into the equation, I feel that installing the spring bolt and have it pull at an angle also causes the top of that trailing arm to twist inwards compressing the hub/axle shaft assembly towards the diff. I’m merely substituting one force for another, and I think it’s probably a wash between the two. For me I like to see that spring bolt verticle or nearly so. If nothing else, the spring cushions function better, the tip of my composite spring isn't subjected to forces it wasn't designed to bear, therefore I feel it's a better solution. Thats my story and I'm sticking to it.

 

shafrs3
You have compensated for bolt inboard relocation...think the question revolves around whether it is necessary....I don't think so.....
Since adding my steel shortened 7 leaf,I have romped on it pretty good....no issues..and I'm not the first to fit a shortened steel spring without messing with mounting brackets....
Rich

 

I'm a little slow on this. What is the pro/con of a shortened spring? I have seen the result of 8"-10" bolts to lower the rear end when a tire goes. I don't want a hardened bolt that close to the ground. Would a shoetened spring hold the mounting bolts higher off the ground? I'm hoping to cram 10.5x18 wheels w/stk TAs. I know things will be close. I don't need any extra danger, I'm a teacher! lol

Rick

 

A shorter spring changes angle of bolts inbd of tires at lower end of bolt.......in my case,I gained 3/4" more clearance inbd.....longer bolts just extends bolt lower towards tire at bottom of rim...

 

Is that 3/4" in tire width or gc? I told you I was slow on this stuff.

 

The bolt (at bottom) moved 3/4" inbd away from tire...this of course will vary depending on length of bolt,tire/rim size...I'm talking of a spring 1 1/2" shorter with stock 15" wheels..

 

You can make this argument about wanting the wider tires in the first place.

 

I don't think by shortening the composite spring 1" on both sides and changing the angle of the bolts will really affect the performance or stress any of the parts unless your really driving on some crappy pot holed roads or off road.. just helps you gain some clearance for some larger wheel/tire combos....having your half shafts not parallel would cause more damage.....jmo

 

So, just how big could be run? I like the idea of 17"x9.5" front and 10.5" or even 11"x18" on rear. Now that would be the right stance!

Rick

 

I just read this whole thread and find this stuff to be fascinating even though I don't have the math or science background for it.

Currently I have 295/50-15s on all 4 corners (don't ask me- a prior owner did it). 295s up front is quite rediculous as they rub the inner fender and sway bar depending upon which way the wheels turn. The 295s in the rear don't quite fill out the L88 style fender flares.

Okay: fronts decrease rears increase, check! I came to the conclusion that ZR-1 sized 275/40-17 fronts and 315/35-17 rears would be a great look and fit for my car. Practically everyone uses the A-mold wheels, so I thought the 1990 wheels or sawblades from 1991-1993 would be a different appearance from the norm.

If I have Dave Herlinger build me some offset trailing arms, what else do I need to make the 17" x 11" wheels fit in the rear? I'm eyeing the dual mount rear spring and the front transverse leaf conversion.

Currently I have a 360# single mount rear and 550# front coils installed but I've never gotten to drive the car with them. If I can get sufficient income by summertime, I'll sell my installed but never used springs and buy for the dual mount & transverse front setup. I'm a huge fan of adjustability/variations.

Pictures here: http://gcrall.miller-motorsports.com...oject+Corvette Nevermind the exhaust, the steel rear spring and the Bilstein shocks, they're all gone, as is the engine. Resto-modification is one expensive proposition.

 

I just remembered why I relocated the sway bar forward. The aftermarket sway bar has a horizontally flattened end that was drilled to accommodate the end link. I moved it forward to relocate the eyelets away from the tire sidewall for more clearance.

 

thanks shafrs3 for your info what kind of sway bar are you running?

 

Vette Brakes 3/4"