Adjusting Door glass....HELP
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Kansas City, MO ...I'd like to go fishing and catch a fishstick. That'd be convenient. - Mitch Hedberg
Posts: 11,891
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Adjusting Door glass....HELP
I replaced the t-top and door weatherstripping. I left the ws on the windshield trim and the rear vertical section because neither are torn and both are still soft. I decided that I would adjust the door glass to eliminate the air leaks above 40mph. I used the instructions from the AIM. I went exactly as it directed, twice. Then I went about trying it my own way. Both methods give similar results.
I have a 1/8" gap between the lowest part of the t-top weatherstripping and the top of the door glass in the front corner. The rear top is all the way in the groove. I can tilt the glass rearwards to get the top corner in a better position, but I can't shut the door because the rear edge will hit the body when shutting the door.
I'm at a loss how to get the front top corner any higher. There is no more vertical adjustment left. The top window stop is fully loose or tightened down in it's highest position trying to fix this.
I have a 1/8" gap between the lowest part of the t-top weatherstripping and the top of the door glass in the front corner. The rear top is all the way in the groove. I can tilt the glass rearwards to get the top corner in a better position, but I can't shut the door because the rear edge will hit the body when shutting the door.
I'm at a loss how to get the front top corner any higher. There is no more vertical adjustment left. The top window stop is fully loose or tightened down in it's highest position trying to fix this.
#2
Le Mans Master
You can try getting further lift of the glass from the forward verticle track by loostening it and pushing it up, and tip the short track in the middle of the door upward.
Eddie
Eddie
#3
Race Director
Thread Starter
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Kansas City, MO ...I'd like to go fishing and catch a fishstick. That'd be convenient. - Mitch Hedberg
Posts: 11,891
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
The short track in the middle is held in place by two bolts. Both rest in identical slots that are slanted from the top rear to the lower front of the door. Somewhere around the middle of them I need them to be slanted the other direction. At least that is the way it seems to me.
I'll read over the link posted above and see if that will clear anything up.
I'll read over the link posted above and see if that will clear anything up.
#4
Race Director
Thread Starter
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Kansas City, MO ...I'd like to go fishing and catch a fishstick. That'd be convenient. - Mitch Hedberg
Posts: 11,891
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
I tried again last night with no luck. I can't raise the front top corner without tilting the rear vertical edge backwards at the top corner. The result is the door glass hitting the body before closing.
Also, I replaced the t-top weatherstripping and the passenger top does not seal on the outer front half of the top. Does anyone have any suggestions for correcting either of these problems?
Also, I replaced the t-top weatherstripping and the passenger top does not seal on the outer front half of the top. Does anyone have any suggestions for correcting either of these problems?
#5
Drifting
Smash the glass out and then take it to an automotive glass company and let them pull their hair out until it is right.
Have you tried shimming up the back of the T-top or shimming down the receptacles that catch the bayonets on the front?
There is nothing like opening the Pandora's box that is window adjustments. It makes you want to drive the car off a bridge and just buy another one that is good from the get go.
Have you tried shimming up the back of the T-top or shimming down the receptacles that catch the bayonets on the front?
There is nothing like opening the Pandora's box that is window adjustments. It makes you want to drive the car off a bridge and just buy another one that is good from the get go.
#6
Originally Posted by Crash80
There is nothing like opening the Pandora's box that is window adjustments. It makes you want to drive the car off a bridge and just buy another one that is good from the get go.
I guess this means that there's no hope for mitigating the persistent and annoying window rattles. I think that I recall seeing in Eckler's some type of anti-rattle part and was thinking of trying it out. Anyone have any experience with this?
#7
Drifting
If all else fails, take it to a good body shop. I am a pretty good mechanice, but admit that body work, transmissions and differentials are a mystery to me and therefore seek "professional" help with them.
#8
Race Director
Thread Starter
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Kansas City, MO ...I'd like to go fishing and catch a fishstick. That'd be convenient. - Mitch Hedberg
Posts: 11,891
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Originally Posted by alanbl
I guess this means that there's no hope for mitigating the persistent and annoying window rattles. I think that I recall seeing in Eckler's some type of anti-rattle part and was thinking of trying it out. Anyone have any experience with this?
There should be two anti-rattle cushions per door. Mine were in terrible shape. Plus my outer door seals had rotted away. I replaced both and added new weatherstripping to the door. It sounds like a new car when I shut the door now. No rattles, just a nice soft *thud*. It also shuts easier. With the old weatherstripping being rock hard and torn, I damn near had to slam the door to get the second latch to hold. Imagine the rattle the door glass made without the cushions or seals to hold it in place.
I have two reasons to not take it somewhere and have it done. First, I'm flat *** broke because I authorized a shop to put a new transmission in my truck today. OUCH. Second, because no work has been done on this car by anyone other than myself. This car is my learning experience/curve. I refuse to give up without learning how to fix it myself. I might ask a lot of stupid questions, but I don't have anyone to teach me other than the experience of just diving in.
#9
Originally Posted by Ak. Mal
There should be two anti-rattle cushions per door. Mine were in terrible shape. .
"There's only one thing that money can't buy -----poverty!"
#10
once you tilt the window can you then slide it forward some? There are lots of adjustments that can be done and no doubt new weatherstripping can throw a rinkle into things. Good luck
#11
Amen on the pandoras box! Just finished adjusting mine (81), it had the opposite problem, the front wanted to overlap the windshield. I replaced everything that looked worn out the (front roller). Its like trying to put toothpaste back in the tube! Keep trying and eventually with lots of swearing and loosening and tightning you will get it!
#12
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Jan 2006
Location: Boca Raton Florida
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 0
Received 24 Likes
on
23 Posts
The track in the middle sets the window height. It has diaganal slots to get more adjustment in the narrow tabs. It does not matter which way the slants go. When you slide the short track forward, the window goes down, back brings it up.
#13
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jul 2005
Location: Aurora Ontario
Posts: 2,740
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here is what worked for me. Loosen off every bolt.i.e both tracks...stops...the center cross member botls...etc.
Get in the car...close the door. Star with the window down about 5 inches or more...push it forward so it follows the windshield pillar when powered up. Power the window up. It should set itself . While in the car with the door closed, window up, tighten all the bolts.
FWIW...its a delicate balance. 1/8 off on one end will equal 1/2 off on the tilt on the other end. Your 1/8 doubles every foot so if a window is 3 feet long you are out 3/8 to 1/4 on the other end.
Jim
Get in the car...close the door. Star with the window down about 5 inches or more...push it forward so it follows the windshield pillar when powered up. Power the window up. It should set itself . While in the car with the door closed, window up, tighten all the bolts.
FWIW...its a delicate balance. 1/8 off on one end will equal 1/2 off on the tilt on the other end. Your 1/8 doubles every foot so if a window is 3 feet long you are out 3/8 to 1/4 on the other end.
Jim
Last edited by jdp6000; 02-01-2006 at 10:02 AM.
#14
Instructor
Member Since: Jan 2005
Location: Hobart Ind, near chicago
Posts: 165
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by jdp6000
Here is what worked for me. Loosen off every bolt.i.e both tracks...stops...the center cross member botls...etc.
Get in the car...close the door. Star with the window down about 5 inches or more...push it forward so it follows the windshield pillar when powered up. Power the window up. It should set itself . While in the car with the door closed, window up, tighten all the bolts.
FWIW...its a delicate balance. 1/8 off on one end will equal 1/2 off on the tilt on the other end. Your 1/8 doubles every foot so if a window is 3 feet long you are out 3/8 to 1/4 on the other end.
Jim
Get in the car...close the door. Star with the window down about 5 inches or more...push it forward so it follows the windshield pillar when powered up. Power the window up. It should set itself . While in the car with the door closed, window up, tighten all the bolts.
FWIW...its a delicate balance. 1/8 off on one end will equal 1/2 off on the tilt on the other end. Your 1/8 doubles every foot so if a window is 3 feet long you are out 3/8 to 1/4 on the other end.
Jim