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I have an Edelbrock 600 CFM carb on my 71 350 right now. The motor has had a lot of work done to it. In the process of putting some Trick Flow heads on it now. I also have a Performer intake on it as well that I may change, but for now it's staying. I'm looking to change out the carb in the future, maybe end of the summer, because of the fact that this carb isn't good for sustained use above 4000 RPM. The bottom end of the motor can handle 6200 RPM. What carb would you recommend? Should I go a step up with an Edelbrock 750 CFM carb? Or should I change to a Holley or BG? I'm looking for reliability and drivability. I don't want to adjust my carb everytime I go out. I do want around 750 CFM though. I think that would be perfect for my set-up. This won't be done right away. Just looking for some ideas.
Street only - Quadrajet. A Q-Jet is a 750cfm carb with mechanical secondaries. The secondary air door basically makes it a variable cfm carb that will feed what your motor needs.
For street/strip, I would probably go with a 750 cfm Demon with mechanical secondaries.
BTW. Performer manifold tops out at about 5500 rpm. For higher, I recommend a Performer RPM or Weiand Stealth.
BTW. Performer manifold tops out at about 5500 rpm. For higher, I recommend a Performer RPM or Weiand Stealth.
Yeah, I know this as well. Figured this will get replaced later on. I've looked at the Weiand Stealth and also at the RPM. I'm thinking about an RPM Air Gap. I believe they'll fit under the hood with a drop base.
... I also have a Performer intake on it as well ...
68-72 standard hoods have limited clearance. One should consider the entire flow path. Performer 2101 is good for over 400 HP & you are under that.
600 is the right size for your setup or 750 Q-J.
Holley 600 would work.
There needs to be about 3/4" CLEARANCE OVER THE FLOAT BOWL VENT TUBES.
Why do you say the 600 Edelbrock is not good over 4000 rpm? One thing I've done (as recommended by others) is hook up a vacuum gauge to read it inside the cockpit. If you punch it to WOT and the gauge drops to 1+1/2 or less you have enough carb. One trick on Edelbrocks is to file a bit of the secondary vacuum blade counter weight off so it opens sooner and/or further.
Why do you say the 600 Edelbrock is not good over 4000 rpm? One thing I've done (as recommended by others) is hook up a vacuum gauge to read it inside the cockpit. If you punch it to WOT and the gauge drops to 1+1/2 or less you have enough carb. One trick on Edelbrocks is to file a bit of the secondary vacuum blade counter weight off so it opens sooner and/or further.
Interesting do you have pic of the carb after & have you tried shifting in the 4500 rpm range after the fix? I have an edel 600 and it dies or stalls out at 4500...
Interesting do you have pic of the carb after & have you tried shifting in the 4500 rpm range after the fix? I have an edel 600 and it dies or stalls out at 4500...
Sorry, no pic. It's a PIA to do because you have to take things apart and clean up after each file job. Key is to take conservative amounts off. Too much off and it will bog like a mechanical secondary. You just have to go as far as you think will be OK. I have a needle width under 1+1/2 vacuum now at WOT. It pulls fine past 5000 rpm, but that's with a stock type cam that has a low power curve.