greaseable U-Joints or not?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 166
Likes: 23
From: Colorado Springs Colorado
greaseable U-Joints or not?
I'm probably 2 x trailing arms behind Yellow71 in our rear end rebuild. Just took my 3 x shafts in today to be redone/balanced. I asked about replacing with non-greaseable U-Joints and he looked at me like I was nuts. Said the only way to go was with Zerk grease fittings.
I figure he does this for a living, so who am I to argue. Anyone out there have any thoughts on this? Just looking for a second opinion
Swede
BTW: I've read a number of threads regarding cutting the T/A bolts with a sawzall. Even with the Lennox Fire/rescue blades, I'm having a heck of a time. I've got the outboard shims out, but I can't move the bushing/washers even the slightest. As I try to saw the bolt, it seems like it is barely scratching. Is this a 5 minute per bolt thing? or is it a 45 minute per bolt thing? If it's 5-minutes, then I'm apparently doing something wrong.
Again, any thoughts?
I figure he does this for a living, so who am I to argue. Anyone out there have any thoughts on this? Just looking for a second opinion
Swede
BTW: I've read a number of threads regarding cutting the T/A bolts with a sawzall. Even with the Lennox Fire/rescue blades, I'm having a heck of a time. I've got the outboard shims out, but I can't move the bushing/washers even the slightest. As I try to saw the bolt, it seems like it is barely scratching. Is this a 5 minute per bolt thing? or is it a 45 minute per bolt thing? If it's 5-minutes, then I'm apparently doing something wrong.
Again, any thoughts?
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,486
Likes: 10
From: Big Pine Key FL
I went with non greasable joints in my half shafts and drive shaft. Stronger? Maybe. Less Messy? Absolutely. Less filling and tastes great 
My Truck has 163,000 miles on non gresable spicers with 30,000 miles of towing a 14,000 lb GTW (usually ways between 10000 and 12000) trailer behind it and they're still going.
I'll be lucky to put 3000 miles a year on the vette... And as long as I dont put some real sticky tires on it I'll likely not break'em even with 567 ft lbs of torque
My Truck has 163,000 miles on non gresable spicers with 30,000 miles of towing a 14,000 lb GTW (usually ways between 10000 and 12000) trailer behind it and they're still going.
I'll be lucky to put 3000 miles a year on the vette... And as long as I dont put some real sticky tires on it I'll likely not break'em even with 567 ft lbs of torque
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,043
Likes: 4
From: Va
Definitely go with the Spice Life Non-greasable
They are stronger and avoid the hassle of having to grease, they are used on high performance cars and 4X4. I just swapped a set out on my 4x4 Explorer which had 125k and they probably would have gone another 25k. If you go with greasble units they can't take the punishment and you must keep up with lubricating them which all to often is overlooked. The tolerances and seals are not as tight as the Spicer Lifes so they wear more quickly.
Good Luck
Good Luck
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
I use non greaseable solid ujoints on mine for the strength of them. As far as the cutting the bolt. Use a little cutting fluid on it. You should be able to cut them in under 5 minutes on the bolts. Which tooth blade are you using. Try to get one in the 14 to 18 tooth range.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 18,478
Likes: 3
From: Quincy IL
On the recommendation of the machine shop and a mechanic friend, I went with greaseable, they both said they were fine for daily drivers and would handle plenty of power and last longer than non greaseable. They also said if I was going to go to some serious horsepower i would have to change the rear end out anyway, not just the u-joints. I drive my vette less than 5000 miles a year, so it gets a full lube with the oil change in the spring. Btw, my original u joints were greaseable on my 79.
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Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,725
Likes: 5
From: Minnesota
Originally Posted by 84rzv500r
My Truck has 163,000 miles on non gresable spicers with 30,000 miles of towing a 14,000 lb GTW (usually ways between 10000 and 12000) trailer behind it and they're still going.
I'll be lucky to put 3000 miles a year on the vette..
I'll be lucky to put 3000 miles a year on the vette..
I had a Suburban with over 230K on the original non-greasable u-joints. Pulled a camper too. Why add another maintenance you don't need?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2,008
Likes: 38
From: Space Coast Gator Territory
Originally Posted by jdmick
I had a Suburban with over 230K on the original non-greasable u-joints. Pulled a camper too. Why add another maintenance you don't need?
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,175
Likes: 3,990
From: Connecticut, USA
I had a zerk joint crack in 1/2 with normal driving @18k miles. Switched over to Spicer non-grease type. I do have a set of TRW's on my mild 350hp automatic 308 car though. Since they are new I'll use them but Spicers will be what I use from here on out.
I may have some left if you can't find them locally. Some areas they're all over, others you can't find them?
I may have some left if you can't find them locally. Some areas they're all over, others you can't find them?
Last edited by gtr1999; Feb 7, 2006 at 05:20 PM.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 455
Likes: 0
From: Buffalo New York
I just got my shafts back and went with greasable joints...
Your bigger issue may be the trailing arm bolts
Anyone who says, "five minutes per side" should have just taken the nut off the end and pulled the bolt out by hand...
Mine were rusted in something terrible. Even after I cut through on both sides of both trailing arms (2 hours total cutting time and 6 lennox "destruction" blades) It still took me another hour and a can of pb blaster to get the shims and the remaining parts of the bolts out of the hole. Worst job ever...At least I won't have to go through this again for a while...
Your bigger issue may be the trailing arm bolts
Anyone who says, "five minutes per side" should have just taken the nut off the end and pulled the bolt out by hand...Mine were rusted in something terrible. Even after I cut through on both sides of both trailing arms (2 hours total cutting time and 6 lennox "destruction" blades) It still took me another hour and a can of pb blaster to get the shims and the remaining parts of the bolts out of the hole. Worst job ever...At least I won't have to go through this again for a while...
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 166
Likes: 23
From: Colorado Springs Colorado
Thanks GordonM for the 14T-18T advice! and thanks to all with the advice on the T/A removal.
I got a cheap recipricating saw from harbor freight on sale for $20 (which was a daily rental cost for a good one), bought 10 dollars worth of Lennox blades and thought I was good to go. NOT, I got the 10T blade vs 18T blade. After 2 hrs and no progress, I looked to the forum for answers.
Yep - 18T is much more gooder than 10T, Got them each out within 30 minutes per side. ALso another big key for me was to get the shims out on both sides.
I used a cold chisel to get the shims hammered up above the lip of the trailing arm, then I used a tie rod separator/pickle fork and wedged it against the outside of the trailing arm and hammered the shims out by wedging it into that rear hole on the shim.
Once the shims were out on both sides, the saw with 18T worked like a champ.
I think I goofed though. I took the T/As out with the camber rod attached. Now I find I don't have the leverage to remove them. At this point, I think I'll just take them to a local machine shop and pay to have them removed unless anyone has any ideas.
Thanks again to all for your helpful advice.
I got a cheap recipricating saw from harbor freight on sale for $20 (which was a daily rental cost for a good one), bought 10 dollars worth of Lennox blades and thought I was good to go. NOT, I got the 10T blade vs 18T blade. After 2 hrs and no progress, I looked to the forum for answers.
Yep - 18T is much more gooder than 10T, Got them each out within 30 minutes per side. ALso another big key for me was to get the shims out on both sides.
I used a cold chisel to get the shims hammered up above the lip of the trailing arm, then I used a tie rod separator/pickle fork and wedged it against the outside of the trailing arm and hammered the shims out by wedging it into that rear hole on the shim.
Once the shims were out on both sides, the saw with 18T worked like a champ.
I think I goofed though. I took the T/As out with the camber rod attached. Now I find I don't have the leverage to remove them. At this point, I think I'll just take them to a local machine shop and pay to have them removed unless anyone has any ideas.
Thanks again to all for your helpful advice.
Instructor
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
I pulled my TA's out with the strut rod. I had to torch out the strut bushing then was able to hammer out the mount. i attempted to hammer with the nut protecting the threaded portion. The threads just became damaged, I was worried about mushrooming the threaded shaft. It did get mushroomed and once the shaft/mount began to move, I cut the mushroomed part off and hammered out the rest of the mount.
I'm still in the middle of the rebuild. I bought U-joints without grease fittings.
I'm still in the middle of the rebuild. I bought U-joints without grease fittings.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 455
Likes: 0
From: Buffalo New York
Glad to hear that you got them out...I did the same thing as you and didn't remove the strut rods from the trailing arms...I took the whole thing to a shop and let them worry about it. They got them off and remounted them on the new trailing arms for me.
