Very very nice work.

 

looking at that and thinking about all you have left to do just makes me feel tired. Its all i can do just to keep my POS running.

Guys like you must have overactive Thyroid glands.

 

Thanks for sharing Monty, I had two of those holes in mine that I fixed a couple of months ago. I cut out the rusted metal and welded in new now you make me feel like I did a half assed job-Thanks Buddy . One thing is for sure, like you said, after all your work it's damn sure better than when it left the factory. Keep up the good work.

ltlevil

 

I finally got to work on my windshield frame replacement yesterday. I had previously tack welded the corner pieces to each side frame because that's how the AIM showed it was originally constructed, but when I went to fit the top frame piece in place it became appearant that the corner pieces did not have the same contour or a sharp enough inside corner to mate well with the top and side pieces without creating a large gap. So I ground off the tack welds and removed the corner pieces. After studying the original frame and comparing it against the new pieces, it was appearant that the new corner pieces were not stamped with as sharp of a corner as the originals. So I decided to start by tack welding the top frame piece to each of the side frame pieces using my measurements and comparison against the original frame as a guide.



After the top was welded to the sides, test fitting of the corner pieces proved again that they were not stamped with a sharp enough corner and the same contour as the top piece. The only option I could figure out was to partially cut the inside of the corner piece so that I could bend it into a sharper angle that more closely matched the original angle and provided a better fitiment with the side and top pieces.



Even with the cut, the corner piece is not a perfect fit to the top and side pieces, but it's as close as I was able to get. Again, studying the original frame and AIM showed that the original pieces didn't fit together perfectly and the gaps were filled with sealant. I'm going to fill the gaps with weld to create a stronger, solid joint that will not allow water to get inbetween the individual pieces and create rust as the originals did.

 

With the corner pieces clamped in place, I began by tacking them to the top and sides. After it was tacked in place, I confirmed my measurements against the original frame one last time and proceeded to fully weld the sides frame to the rest of the birdcage, and the corner piece to the side and top frame pieces. To ensure that the welds achieved full penetration, I made a 2 pass weld distibuting the weld across more area. Afterwards, I used a 4 1/2" grinder and die grinder to smooth the welded area and blend in the area.



I did the same at the top corners. I decided to fully weld all the seams so that they would not be an entry point for water, unlike the original frame. Now there are no gaps or seams between the pieces that will allow water to get inside the frame.



Here you can see where I filled in the gap between the corner piece and the top and side pieces. There is no way for water to get inside the frame now, and it's not dependant on silicone or sealer. Ity should also be stronger.




All that's left is to treat and paint the frame with POR15 and then weld the lower corner pieces back in place.

 

That's some impressive work...I hope I never have to attempt anything like that but if I did, you've set the benchmark.

 

I'm not suprised the new pieces you received didn't fit to the T. It's rare for aftermarket pieces to fit well. Looks like you did a great job. You might want to test-fit a windshield in there, and maybe your T tops if you haven't already, before you totally button it up. Also, I wanted to share, that with urethane windshield sealant/adhesive, it'll help make up some gaps.

I'm working on my 1981 birdcage. I just sandblasted it today, in fact. Like others on the board have noted in other threads, you often can't see how bad the rust really is until you tear into it. In my case, I couldn't see any rust, other than some bubbling of the seamsealer around the upper door hinge. I scrapped the seam sealer away and it was worse than I thought. Once I pulled the trim and windshield you could see where leaks were occuring by the rust streaks along the top of the windshield frame. Fortunately, I cought mine early. There was hardly any rust at all, a few minor rust pits, nothing close to being holes. But it points to the fact that if you can "see" evidence of rust, particularly before teardown, the birdcage is likely many times worse.

Your thread shows how much work (or expensive it would be) to repair the damage and why it is so important to make sure C3 owners identify and resolve water leaks asap.

Keep us posted with more pictures as you go along.

Mark G

 

Thanks for the comments Mark G. I have already test fit my windshield to the new frame and it seems to fit pretty well, but as you mentioned the sealant/adhesive makes up for alot. On my original windshield frame, there were areas where it was almost a 1/4 thick, maybe a little more. My car is a convertible, so I don't have t-tops to worry about, and the convertible top gives me a little more play room although all my measurements compared to the original frame lead me to believe that I've got it in place accurately.

Thankfully, all evidence points to this being the extent of the damage to my birdcage. I have looked for further damage and luckily the rest is solid. After I paint the windshield frame this week, I'm pulling the body off and should know for sure, but based upon all the other indications the rest is rust free.

 

Could someone forward this to BUBBA and inform him that urethane windshield sealer is NOT the same as blue RTV/silicone? Must have been 3 tubes of that stuff around my windshield when I pulled the old one out.

ltlevil

 

If someone knew where Bubba was, I'm sure he wouldn't live too much longer.

 

really appreciate the pics. I know when doing a project, it slows a person down to stop and take the pics.

 

Just wish I had the ability that you do,when I bought my 81 Iwas ignorant about all these problems with the bird cage.Im taking my car to a shop that does all types of Corvette repair,Im just holding my breath

 

no it gives you a chance to sit back, drink a beer and admire your work.

Monty, that was the exact condition of my widshield frame, I replaced the top piece and the upper corners. my corners did not fit perfect either. once I finished welding I closed and latched the top and it seems to fit right. your welding looks much nicer than mine. nice work

 

Thanks for the comments and compliments. I was pretty apprehensive about doing this project but now that I'm done I'm glad I did. Now I know I have a solid foundation for my overall project. I'm going to start building my body dolly this afternoon and hopefully have the body off this weekend. Then the real fun can begin.

 

to me pulling the body off mine was a piece of cake compared to repairing the windshield frame. there are no measurment or fitting concerns, just taking stuff apart

 

Monty,the high level of your documentation is a great donation for all corvette hobbyist. I have found any body and birdgage related stuff extremely hard and difficult work. By following your steps it will be next time much easier. Please store all pics and details in your pages for future source of info.

 

hehe, and upon buying my '72 vert, some 11+ years ago, I noticed when peeling the interior, the windshiled header/post area was painted same as rest of car, custom burgundy color urethane....well I also noticed in a heavy rain storm the car would get some water inside...

not much, but I removed the outside chrome, and wrapped the header stainless with vinyl, and burried any open metal in silicone RTV black, and also sealed hell outta the fender area up top near the WSW door....

guess what?? freaking shark could go swimming, and not one damn leak even today, 11 years later.....done right, it's a sure cure against water/rust, and dirt....

GENE