Hello all, I am new to the forum but have had the vette since fall of 91. My question is: HAs anyone ever tried to remove a trailing arm with a frozen bolt? it is the right rear and I cant get a good whack at it with a hammer because of the curve of the wheel well. I am beginning to think Saws-all or torch but before I go to those extremes I thought Id get some opinions.

 

Welcome! I wouldn't try a torch, it's to close to the fiberglass. Most people remove the shims (if they'll come out) then use a sawzall to cut the bolt on either side of the T/A.

 

There have been numerous threads on this and they all involve a sawzall! You can do a search but it comes down to this you have to get the shims out, then cut through the bolt. Also see the threads on removing the shock mount, also a great source of frustration for many of the folks who tried it

good luck


tim

 

No torch! Sawzall or cutoff wheel yes.

 

Get more than one high quality blade and be patient. You'll need the longer blades (don't know length), but standard length won't reach.

 

Remove the shims, use a chiesel or screwdriver and get them out on both sides of the bolt. Use a sawsall with good metal cutting blades and cut the bolt on both sides of the arm. As for the shock mount; it too will freeze to the trailing arm. I even tried using a tool which screws over the threads on the mount and hit it with a sledge and it would not budge. To keep from damaging anything, remove the trailing arm with the strut attached to the shock mount, then put it on a vise and hit it with the sledge. The shock mount has a flat on one side of it and if you try to rotate it, you will damage the arm, the mount or both. good luck
Bernie

 

Sawzall all the way!!! I just went through this about 2 weeks ago. Its not really that bad. Just make sure you have the trailing arm supported when that bolt finally gives way. Its got a bit of weight to it. Ask my left knee how I know. (ouch!)

Good luck

~Rich

 

Despite what everyone else has said, I would recommend using a sawzall. Replace with a stainless steel bolt and SS shims.

 

Welcome to the forum, I'm just a dumb flyer and have NEVER done any mechanic work before in my life - but with the help of the forum threads I've removed my entire rear end (STS)

I was extremely gun shy about the TA's but all the advice on-line encouraged me to just go for it.

I got a cheap reciprocating saw from harbor freight on sale for $20 (which was the daily rental cost for a good one), bought 10 dollars worth of Lennox blades and thought I was good to go. NOT, I got the 10T blade vs 18T blade. After 2 hrs and no progress, I looked to the forum for answers.

Yep - 18T is much more gooder than 10T, I used the Lennox "Fire and Rescue" blades, 18 teeth per inch (got them at Lowes). I each trailing arm out within 30 minutes per side.

ALso another big key for me was to get the shims out on both sides.
I used a cold chisel to get the shims hammered up above the lip of the trailing arm housing, then I used a tie rod separator/pickle fork and wedged it against the outside of the trailing arm housing and hammered the shims out by wedging it into that rear hole on the shim.

Once the shims were out on both sides, the saw with 18T worked like a champ.

I think I goofed though. I took the T/As out with the camber rod attached, and then I didn't have any leverage to remove the camber rods. If I were to do it over, I'd remove the camber rods and lower shock mount BEFORE I removed the TA's.

BTW: Just in case, you might want to keep the kids inside while you do this. There is a strong tendency to start "talking with the Lord" when you're working on the shims

Good Luck

Swede

 

definitely the sawzall will get that bolt removed. just had to do it a few days ago. the forum posts helped give me assurance that was the way to go.

 

Check out the pics on this thread. It is piece of cake IF you can get the shims out.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...916&forum_id=3

Have fun!

 

Before you break out the big guns described above...
have you tried placing a @12" length of solid bar against the bolt and giving the bar a couple of whacks with a big hammer?
This worked on my 71; both sides. Just be careful not to let the bar slide off the bolt against the paint/wheel well. Helps if your bar end is slightly cupped. I used an old rocker shaft from an overhead 6 motor.

 

I uaed a torch on mine, but the trailing arms were junk to start with and I was going to have to replace them anyway. Be very carefull if you do this. I cut through the end of the tailing arm and cut the bolt in the center, when I finaily got the t/a out I had to use a hammer and chisel to get the shims out. The rubber bushing will burn up so keek lots of water handy to put it out and then try again. It can be done if you are carefull, but I would not do this if the t/a is not to be replaced.

 

WOW, Thanks to everyone for all the responses I think I am ready to tackle this now I had never been able to find anyone who had gone through the process. I hope to be communicating some good results in the near future.