Solid vs Rubber Motor Mounts
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,191
Likes: 1
Before going solid, you might consider poly-urethane, since rubber really doesn't hold up well when performing manuevers like that shown below - especially the driver's side. I took out the upper radiator hose after performing a similar manuever with a brand-spankin' new made-in-Korea rubber mount (OK, maybe a few years and few hundred miles old) installed by a local Chevy dealer's shop.
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: Canton Georgia
Don't go solid. You won't believe the amount of vibration you will feel.
Ask me how I know this...
Stick with rubber, or at most polyurethane engine mounts.
The solid mounts basically just don't break, like the rubber ones can under very high torque loading, or high cyclic torque loading...
If you have a drag car, then by all means use solid mounts.
Ask me how I know this...
Stick with rubber, or at most polyurethane engine mounts.
The solid mounts basically just don't break, like the rubber ones can under very high torque loading, or high cyclic torque loading...
If you have a drag car, then by all means use solid mounts.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
I don't like the feeling of solid mounts when the car is idling. It shakes the whole car.
That said I went solid again this winter because of excess engine torque ripping the poly mounts.
I also found that all three mounts do NOT line up. The normal way is to install the two motor mounts then the tranny mount. You will usually find the trany mount is not aligned so you pry the tailstock over until it aligns and bolt it down.
Try doing the right motor mount first, then the trany mount then the drives mount??
It won't align right so we go back to doing the transmission last.
Think about all the torque you are putting in the mount before you actually start the engine. The torque is also in the frame.
I custom made my drives side solid mount so all stress is off the mount and the mount just drops into place and the bolt holes align. It was off alot.
This was a post I did on customizing motor mounts
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...nts&forum_id=3
That said I went solid again this winter because of excess engine torque ripping the poly mounts.
I also found that all three mounts do NOT line up. The normal way is to install the two motor mounts then the tranny mount. You will usually find the trany mount is not aligned so you pry the tailstock over until it aligns and bolt it down.
Try doing the right motor mount first, then the trany mount then the drives mount??
It won't align right so we go back to doing the transmission last.
Think about all the torque you are putting in the mount before you actually start the engine. The torque is also in the frame.
I custom made my drives side solid mount so all stress is off the mount and the mount just drops into place and the bolt holes align. It was off alot.
This was a post I did on customizing motor mounts
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...nts&forum_id=3
Last edited by norvalwilhelm; Feb 13, 2006 at 11:55 AM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,468
Likes: 18
From: Lake Ozark, MO
I may try the polys.....the rubber real allows the motor to torque a bunch. The motor is flexing so much it keep pulling my TV bracket loose from the carb stud (mount isn't broke).
Last edited by Hvymtlc5; Feb 13, 2006 at 12:28 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2005
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Have poly's on the 502...PO did it at engine install....got 20,000 miles with some romping on it....he first,now me...these engines exhibit vibration...I had to use locktite on all alternator,powering steering bolts about a month ago...some had loosened up...ok now...headers are very close to frame and steering box..so these semi-ridgid poly's are restricting engine movement just enough....
Rich
Rich
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Joined: Jan 2000
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From: Corsicana, Tx
2020 C2 of the Year - Modified Winner
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I ran the stock T-Locking type until just recently. Had no issues with them other than my headers were starting to get beat up some. Something to do with dumping the clutch with slicks and pulling wheelies....for some reason motor must have been moving around a little!
Beats me.....
JIM
Beats me.....
JIM
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 16,100
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Originally Posted by 427Hotrod
I ran the stock T-Locking type until just recently. Had no issues with them other than my headers were starting to get beat up some. Something to do with dumping the clutch with slicks and pulling wheelies....for some reason motor must have been moving around a little!
Beats me.....
JIM
Beats me.....
JIM
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From: Corsicana, Tx
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You're just not hooking up good enough!! Throw some slicks on there and let 'er rip!!
JIM
JIM
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2005
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Originally Posted by 427Hotrod
You're just not hooking up good enough!! Throw some slicks on there and let 'er rip!!
JIM
JIM
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by 427Hotrod
You're just not hooking up good enough!! Throw some slicks on there and let 'er rip!!
JIM
JIM
I also posted earlier about alignment issues with solids. Did you address this or did yours line up ok??
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
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From: Corsicana, Tx
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Yes I put some solid in it the other day. I got them from Mark (ML67) here on the Forum. They are Moroso's and they actually dropped on pretty easily.
When you dump the clutch at about 5000 rpm with 700 ft lbs and a set of slicks at the other end..things do tend to move around a little more than just winging the throttle. But that's pretty extreme.....
Mark went to poly and said he couldn't tell a whole lot of difference between solid and the poly's, but our stuff does have a few more vibrations than stock stuff.
As i said, I had no issue with using stock type other than they allowed motor to move just a little too much at the track. I haven't driven it much with the solids yet, I'm sure there will be a few new "noises". I've had solids in lots of other cars in the past though...no big deal..just hunt them all down and quiet them.
JIM
When you dump the clutch at about 5000 rpm with 700 ft lbs and a set of slicks at the other end..things do tend to move around a little more than just winging the throttle. But that's pretty extreme.....
Mark went to poly and said he couldn't tell a whole lot of difference between solid and the poly's, but our stuff does have a few more vibrations than stock stuff.
As i said, I had no issue with using stock type other than they allowed motor to move just a little too much at the track. I haven't driven it much with the solids yet, I'm sure there will be a few new "noises". I've had solids in lots of other cars in the past though...no big deal..just hunt them all down and quiet them.
JIM
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,752
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From: Austin Texas
Originally Posted by Sleper
I would suggest going to rubber or poly and chaining the driver side of the engine. It does not have to be tight leave about 1/2 inch of movement and you will be fine. My $0.02 
Rubber and a chain, smooth and strong
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 847
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From: Des Allemands LA
Another option is to run a solid mount on the drivers side and a rubber on the pass side. This will keep the motor from ripping itself out, while still having a little cushion while romping on it. Just make sure the heights are the same so the motor sits level. I have run this setup in several different vehicles over the years with no breakage or other issues.
ltlevil
ltlevil
