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Please help with Hooker side mount header install on a BB.

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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 08:14 PM
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Default Please help with Hooker side mount header install on a BB.

I started putting the driver side header on tonight and I cannot get the bolts started. Did any of you have to clearence the flanges at all to clear the lower head bolts? it also seems that the manufactured dent for clearing the steering gear box might not be dented enough. I have only been able to get the front bolt mounted.

Thanks
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 08:18 PM
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Do they hit your rockers? You have to clearnce these some.
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 08:24 PM
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I didn't have any problems but I'm running GM heads. I know some people had to have the heads modified because they had problems w/ raised exhaust ports. I see you have Edlebrocks, aren't they std/oem sized ports?
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 08:32 PM
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I just did this Sunday,do you have help or by yourself?If you can get some one under the car and jigglle the header it'll go.
mine has no clearane to box with out dent
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 08:43 PM
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Thanks guys.
I removed the rockers to do the test fit so that is not a problem. The Edelbrocks are an OEM style casting without raised exhaust ports. I will try an get the wife to help me out a bit Saturday on the driver side. I will go ahead and try the passenger side on my own again.

Silly me!! And hear I was thinking that this was going to be an easy job.....

Thanks
Wade
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 08:49 PM
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you may have to elongate the bolt holes in the flange...check the holes with the exhaust gasket. You might consider dropping the steering box if you have trouble lining up the bolt holes
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 08:50 PM
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pass side is easy,just put a stud in the frt and back holes in head and bring header up and hook over,
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 10:13 PM
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Yep I had to clearance the flange at each head bolt.
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 10:40 PM
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Mine were fine with head bolts but when I changed to studs I had to clearance the flange at each of the bottom head studs.
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 10:44 PM
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On my 69 BB I had to hog out the flange holes. No problem missing the steering box. Did have to remove the clutch linkage to get in, then replace.
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 08:07 AM
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I put mine in by myself. No dings to clear anything. On GM/Edel heads that come with ZZ502 engines the bottom headbolts can be replaced with a 12 point ARP bolt that are short enough not to interfear with the header flanges so youdont have to grind on that pretty Jethot Coating. Studs would have a similar clearance requirement I would think but griding would be your option there...

This was all revealed to me by the Oracle that is the Corvette Forum Search command
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by 84rzv500r
I put mine in by myself. No dings to clear anything. On GM/Edel heads that come with ZZ502 engines the bottom headbolts can be replaced with a 12 point ARP bolt that are short enough not to interfear with the header flanges so youdont have to grind on that pretty Jethot Coating. Studs would have a similar clearance requirement I would think but griding would be your option there...

This was all revealed to me by the Oracle that is the Corvette Forum Search command

I had to get the "low head" ARP bolts for the stock exhaust manifolds.
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Jughead
I had to get the "low head" ARP bolts for the stock exhaust manifolds.

Hmmmm.. I have ARP head bolts but can't remember which ones. I will have to check again this evening and see.


Thanks
Wade
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 09:25 AM
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I had no problem with the lower studs hitting the flange, but I did have to hog out the bolt holes...guess that raised the header enough to clear the lower studs.
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 10:10 AM
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Factory heads, bolts, and steering in my case. The holes were bitch to get lined up by myself, but I did it w/o having to clearance anything.

I would recommend someone lending a hand to support the bottom and/or wiggle while you start the bolts.
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