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I was checking bearing clearances on my new Scat 383 crank and rods last night, and am coming up with .002 on the mains, .003 on the rods, using Plastigage. According to my chiltons manual, these are about the loosest clearances I should run. I will sign out a 2"-3" mic today(in the .0001 range if it is available), and try it again, but before I go and buy a set of .001 under bearings, I'd like some input on what clearances you forum members use, and if my readings are ok to use without damaging something
I was checking bearing clearances on my new Scat 383 crank and rods last night, and am coming up with .002 on the mains, .003 on the rods, using Plastigage. According to my chiltons manual, these are about the loosest clearances I should run. I will sign out a 2"-3" mic today(in the .0001 range if it is available), and try it again, but before I go and buy a set of .001 under bearings, I'd like some input on what clearances you forum members use, and if my readings are ok to use without damaging something
Do not increase your bearing clearance. Bearings are designed for .0025 At that clearance they carry the maximum load, use 1 gallon of oil per minute and it is the best compromise in operating temperature.
If you increase the clearance .001 the oil consumption per bearing goes to 2 1/2 gallons, the bearing runs only slightly cooler, the crank gets washed by all that oil and the bearing carrying capacity goes way down.
I try to keep my mains at .002 to .0025 and my rods at .0015-.002
I do break the motors in slowly to let the clearance work itself in.
Don't run .003 to .0035
Build it tighter, break it in for a few thousand miles before beating on it and you will have a better motor. I even set my forged bigblock pistons at .0045
Who's bearings are you using? Sign out a 0-1" mic w/ball attachment, measure each Rod bearing half. Depending on bearings you'll see up to .001" difference between halves (typically .0006"). This is because of the variance in the final "coating" of each half.
Lay them out on a sheet of paper and mark the results (measured at center), when all 16 halves are done you'll see what I mean. If their .030" normally, and two are .0306", you would be .0012" over and end up with tight tolerence. Same if their both .0294", would be .0008" too loose. These values are for discussion only, not actual thicknesses.
This is why FM Race Bearings don't have the final tinning, they are within .0001" of each other. Use to sit and measure before these bearings came out, would grab extras just to get the correct clearances. But that was when we were looking for all the hp we could get.
Double check everything, once it's installed your done. No warranty or exchange after it's in. Your main bearing clearances are fine, check the rods as discribed and see where your at.
I am using Clevite 77 CB-663 P rod bearings from Summit. They are still mounted in the rods, so I'm going to re-check with the 2"-3" mic and snap gauge, and back it up by measuring the bearing thickness with the ball-end mic. In fact, I'm going to go grab a Bud Light and head out to the garage right NOW! Thanks for the tip
Done measuring, and found the rod bearings to be .062 in the center and .061 at the ends. This doesn't sound right at all, and it's compounded by the fact that the rod journals on the crank were ground to the smaller end of the tolerance scale(2.099). So to sum things up, it seems to be a matter of tolerance stacking adding up not in my favor, so I will have to spring for a set of .001 over rod bearings.
Thanks to those that responded, you guys were a big help, if anyone has any suggestions for a different make of bearing, I'm open
I've found plasti gage usually is about 0.0005 too big when checked against a mic. I had to buy .001 U/S rod bearings (663P1) and just use one half with the regular 663P on my Scatt rods.