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My transmission was running way too hot when drag racing. I used a 28000 B&M Supercooler and the tranny would still run way too hot.
Removed the B&M cooler and installed two 18 inch Heat Sink design double pass tranny coolers. Made 3 passes on Friday and the tranny temperature never got above 150 degrees.. The coolers also add 2 quarts of fluid capacity which also helps to keep things cooler...
You put in two? Got a pic of them on the car. What did the car run ?? Ready for some nitrous yet ?
The rebuilt engine had issues.. Only made 3 passes.. Something happened after the 60' mark on my first pass.. Engine hesitated during the rest of the pass after my 2nd best 60' time ever.. Made 2 more passes but the engine ran hot and had no power.. Ran in the 12's except for the first pass which was 11.98 or so... Something major is wrong.. The car is going into the shop of the engine rebuilder on monday so that they'll check out what's wrong...
Great Idea for teh use of the exhaust holes in the crossmember. I mounted my 1 heat sink up front on teh fascia support in front of the rad. I still run it through the rad cooler as well, but then again, I don't have the HP's you have so it works for me.
Great job.
From: Pettis Performance 565 with two stages of Nitrous Supply nitrous 1.082, 4.61 at 155, 7.17 at 192
Originally Posted by GrandSportC3
The rebuilt engine had issues.. Only made 3 passes.. Something happened after the 60' mark on my first pass.. Engine hesitated during the rest of the pass after my 2nd best 60' time ever.. Made 2 more passes but the engine ran hot and had no power.. Ran in the 12's except for the first pass which was 11.98 or so... Something major is wrong.. The car is going into the shop of the engine rebuilder on monday so that they'll check out what's wrong...
Sorry to hear about it not running right. You did the right thing...quit running it 'till you find out what is wrong.
What do you have for a timing pointer/balancer on front of motor? Just a thought..when you install those cool billet ones you have to "degree" them in to make sure TDC is correct. They can be off a LONG ways if just bolted on.
What balancer? Any chance it slipped? Or is it an ATI or something?
We checked the timing and it was set correctly... The builder (who also is the main race sponsor) was there and checked everything. We made a slight adjustment in timing for the last pass, but there was no change.. The engine fires up great and idles good with no noises. However, it falls on it's nose above 5000 RPM where it's supposed to make the power.. Very strange
Sorry to hear about it not running right. You did the right thing...quit running it 'till you find out what is wrong.
What do you have for a timing pointer/balancer on front of motor? Just a thought..when you install those cool billet ones you have to "degree" them in to make sure TDC is correct. They can be off a LONG ways if just bolted on.
What balancer? Any chance it slipped? Or is it an ATI or something?
JIM
I have a Romac balancer. Those are top of the line. Never had any issues with it before.. Anyway, the shop will try to start figuring out what's wrong. The builder wasn't happy with the amount of shavings in the oil after only 3 passes.. No large shavings, just microscopic bronze shavings, but he's still concerned and wants to look the engine over again...
BTW - I urually would use braided hose and better fittings but there was no speed shop in Aiken, so I went with standard rubber hose to hook up the coolers.. No issues with that so far..
Good thing builder was there..so he saw for himself what it was doing and knows you didn't do anything to hurt it. Plus he set timing so that eliminates him saying you did it wrong. I'd still check out the actual timing marks with a degree wheel to be sure. If balancer is degreed, you can install a piston stop through #1 spark plug hole and rotate motor by hand back and forth to each point where it stops. It should read same # of degrees from TDC on both sides. TDC should be exactly halfway between the two stop points.
Be careful with any rubber line on trans lines. Regular gas hose is not rated for pressure like that...it can't handle the heat and the several hundred pounds of pressure a trans will put out.
If one of those lines comes off, I can tell you that the odds of you NOT hitting a wall while racing on slicks is VERY small!
Please get some better stuff on them before you go back. Please?
Good thing builder was there..so he saw for himself what it was doing and knows you didn't do anything to hurt it. Plus he set timing so that eliminates him saying you did it wrong. I'd still check out the actual timing marks with a degree wheel to be sure. If balancer is degreed, you can install a piston stop through #1 spark plug hole and rotate motor by hand back and forth to each point where it stops. It should read same # of degrees from TDC on both sides. TDC should be exactly halfway between the two stop points.
Be careful with any rubber line on trans lines. Regular gas hose is not rated for pressure like that...it can't handle the heat and the several hundred pounds of pressure a trans will put out.
If one of those lines comes off, I can tell you that the odds of you NOT hitting a wall while racing on slicks is VERY small!
Please get some better stuff on them before you go back. Please?
JIM
I'll let the shop figure out what's wrong.. They understand much more about it than I do! I will change the tranny lines as soon as I get a chance... Speed shops are closed today, so I can't pick up braided hoses today..but maybe next Saturday..
From: Pettis Performance 565 with two stages of Nitrous Supply nitrous 1.082, 4.61 at 155, 7.17 at 192
Other than the stuff Jim pointed out I would check the valve springs. Usually when you float the valves you can hear it, but maybe they are worn out. If they are new they could be the wrong springs for the application. I have seen that too. Since it was running hot I would look really hard at the timing issue.
If you want some nice braided hose give the guys at nitrous supply a call. They will make you braided hose to the exact lenght you want. That is if your local speed shop can't.
Other than the stuff Jim pointed out I would check the valve springs. Usually when you float the valves you can hear it, but maybe they are worn out. If they are new they could be the wrong springs for the application. I have seen that too. Since it was running hot I would look really hard at the timing issue.
If you want some nice braided hose give the guys at nitrous supply a call. They will make you braided hose to the exact lenght you want. That is if your local speed shop can't.
714 373 1986
Good luck Oliver
The engine has exactly the same components as before.. Therefore it should run as before or even faster... The valve springs were still in perfect shape... I can get braided hose at the local speed shop.. I could also order it from Summit... Not a big deal.. The regular hoses should be ok for a little while. I'm not worried yet about what the issues is. I'll let the shop figure it out.
The engine has exactly the same components as before.. Therefore it should run as before or even faster... The valve springs were still in perfect shape... I can get braided hose at the local speed shop.. I could also order it from Summit... Not a big deal.. The regular hoses should be ok for a little while. I'm not worried yet about what the issues is. I'll let the shop figure it out.
Oliver I was away the week you ran into problems and just did a search as I was curious that you have not been posting this week.
Are there any updates on what was the problem? Have you ran the car again??
I hope this engine doesn't have to come out.
Oliver I was away the week you ran into problems and just did a search as I was curious that you have not been posting this week.
Are there any updates on what was the problem? Have you ran the car again??
I hope this engine doesn't have to come out.
They dropped the pan and the 2 outter main bearings had way too much wear for 3 passes on them. I ran the first 3 passes on regular 10/30 oil and only drove a few times up and down at the return road before racing.. It probably was lack of break in.. Well, the car isn't street registered anymore and I can't really break it in on the street..
Once they'll fix is (hopefully within a week or 2) they'll immediately use Mobil 1..