Which 383 kit?
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,716
Likes: 4
From: New Baden Illinois
I've been looking through the Summit catalog. You can get it from www.summitracing.com. They have a few to choose from.
I would be interested in hearing what some other people have used.
I would be interested in hearing what some other people have used.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 17,673
Likes: 199
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
You should be able to get a good stroker kit with a cast crank, hyperutectic pistons, rings, bearings etc. for under $1000.
Loolk at either a Scat 9000 or Eagle cast crank, SIR rods are good also, and SpeedPro or Keith Black pistons, good for 550 HP
Loolk at either a Scat 9000 or Eagle cast crank, SIR rods are good also, and SpeedPro or Keith Black pistons, good for 550 HP
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,752
Likes: 4
From: Austin Texas
Originally Posted by dgruenke
Has anyone found a kit that does not need external balancing or block fabrication?
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,716
Likes: 4
From: New Baden Illinois
Thanks big G.
I did notice that some kits require the reduced base-circle cam. What is that, and what manufactures produce it?
kylelm: sorry to ask questions on your thread, but I hope some of these answers help you also.
I did notice that some kits require the reduced base-circle cam. What is that, and what manufactures produce it?
kylelm: sorry to ask questions on your thread, but I hope some of these answers help you also.
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Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: Valley Center Kansas
I can offer you a 383 kit with 5140 steel crank, 5140 steel 6" rods, Keith Black Hyperutectic pistons, Rings and Clevite 77 h-series bearings for $900 plus shipping (around $100) or about $1050 plus shipping with forged pistons. or $700 plus shipping with a nodular iron crank. PM me if interested.
Racer
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 470
Likes: 1
From: Amelia Ohio
You can get a 383 rotating assembly from Speedway Motors delivered to your door ext. balanced and assembled for less than 800.00. Unfortunitely this is the path that I took and am stuck with these people for over a month because of a back order from Keith Black 
. Depends on your budget and how long you want to wait.
Chris
. Depends on your budget and how long you want to wait.Chris
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,716
Likes: 4
From: New Baden Illinois
I really appreciate all the advice and offers. A couple more questions, though.
Is it necessary to go with forged crank and pistons if the engine is not going to be more than 400 h.p.?
Also, I don't understand the difference between the 5.7" rods and the 6.0" rods. If a 383 is really a 383 because of the increase in the stroke, how can you have a 0.3" difference in the stroke and still have the same c.i.?
Thanks again for all the help.
Is it necessary to go with forged crank and pistons if the engine is not going to be more than 400 h.p.?
Also, I don't understand the difference between the 5.7" rods and the 6.0" rods. If a 383 is really a 383 because of the increase in the stroke, how can you have a 0.3" difference in the stroke and still have the same c.i.?
Thanks again for all the help.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,752
Likes: 4
From: Austin Texas
Originally Posted by dgruenke
I really appreciate all the advice and offers. A couple more questions, though.
Is it necessary to go with forged crank and pistons if the engine is not going to be more than 400 h.p.?
Also, I don't understand the difference between the 5.7" rods and the 6.0" rods. If a 383 is really a 383 because of the increase in the stroke, how can you have a 0.3" difference in the stroke and still have the same c.i.?
Thanks again for all the help.
Is it necessary to go with forged crank and pistons if the engine is not going to be more than 400 h.p.?
Also, I don't understand the difference between the 5.7" rods and the 6.0" rods. If a 383 is really a 383 because of the increase in the stroke, how can you have a 0.3" difference in the stroke and still have the same c.i.?
Thanks again for all the help.
The stroke is 3.75 inches. The rod length does not change the stroke, only the piston pin height.
NCM Grand Opening Veteran
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 20,979
Likes: 384
From: South of giving a damn
St. Jude Donor '11, '17
Originally Posted by dgruenke
I really appreciate all the advice and offers. A couple more questions, though.
Is it necessary to go with forged crank and pistons if the engine is not going to be more than 400 h.p.?
Also, I don't understand the difference between the 5.7" rods and the 6.0" rods. If a 383 is really a 383 because of the increase in the stroke, how can you have a 0.3" difference in the stroke and still have the same c.i.?
Thanks again for all the help.
Is it necessary to go with forged crank and pistons if the engine is not going to be more than 400 h.p.?
Also, I don't understand the difference between the 5.7" rods and the 6.0" rods. If a 383 is really a 383 because of the increase in the stroke, how can you have a 0.3" difference in the stroke and still have the same c.i.?
Thanks again for all the help.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,161
Likes: 0
From: pr, frederick md.
you will save money in the long run if you buy a short block assembly already made into a 383. i got a short block ( just block and rotating assembly ) with forged crank, h- beam rods, and forged silvolite coated pistons for 1800, with all the balancing and machining already done. if you can find a machine shop to do all that to your stock block, i say go for it. check out P.A.W., they offer great prices and alot of choices 
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,716
Likes: 4
From: New Baden Illinois
I think that I can pick up a block that needs rebuilt for a couple hundred bucks, and have it bored .030 over. If I can get this, then I can get cast equipment to put in it.
I just hate to pay double price for the forged if I won't need them.
I just hate to pay double price for the forged if I won't need them.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by big_G
Almost all cam manufacturers make "Stroker" cams. The additional clearance is necessary to prevent the connecting rods from hitting the lobes.
Pro
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 669
Likes: 80
From: NE USA
Is "stroker cam" anything like "RV cam"? 
concern your self with cam "selection" with consideration of heads, intake, and exhaust. Yes a stroker has more volume than a 350 and can better use more cam, but not the only factor in selecting a cam.
concern your self with cam "selection" with consideration of heads, intake, and exhaust. Yes a stroker has more volume than a 350 and can better use more cam, but not the only factor in selecting a cam.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,752
Likes: 4
From: Austin Texas
Originally Posted by kylelm
Is it always necessary to buy a "stroker cam" for a 383?
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,570
Likes: 1
From: Algonac Michigan
Originally Posted by big_G
World Products WRL-101099 is an internally balanced rotating assembly. No additional balancing is needed. Almost always, some block and/or oil pan modification will be required, and a reduced base-circle cam may be required.
Later,
Sly
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,752
Likes: 4
From: Austin Texas
Only slight grinding on the bottom of some cylinders and possibly the oil pan gasket flange area. You can buy an oil pan that is designed for rod clearance. Let the machine shop do the block work, they should know what to do. Also, Crower and other rod companies make rods with additional clearance designed in for stroker engines.