68 owners...Need some help here
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 365
Likes: 1
From: Glenview IL
Need some help with rear alignment
I'm getting ready to put the rear susp back together in my '68 after a total rebuild. I bought the '2-hole' T/A shims, not the '70 and up slotted ones. The alignment shops that I called said that they wont touch it because its too much of a pain to do. They said that they would have to drop the spring everytime an adjustment had to be made.(makes sense I guess)
Anyone out there still use the 2-hole shims, or did you guys drill holes in the pocket to accomodate the slotted ones? I prefer not to start drilling, and am looking for a solution.
Anyone in the chicago area have an alignment done on a 68-69? If so, where and how much??
Thanks
~Rich
Anyone out there still use the 2-hole shims, or did you guys drill holes in the pocket to accomodate the slotted ones? I prefer not to start drilling, and am looking for a solution.
Anyone in the chicago area have an alignment done on a 68-69? If so, where and how much??
Thanks
~Rich
Last edited by 68sbShark; Mar 3, 2006 at 07:55 PM.
Pro
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 607
Likes: 0
From: North Alabama
Rich,
The slotted ones are the way to go. You can push them up far enough and then down so they rest nicely in the pocket. When you say drill...are you talking about drilling for the cotter pin?
Bottom line my opinion, unless those shims are the last thing on your vette to make it TOTALLY stock NCRS class, I would go with the slotted shims.
The slotted ones are the way to go. You can push them up far enough and then down so they rest nicely in the pocket. When you say drill...are you talking about drilling for the cotter pin?
Bottom line my opinion, unless those shims are the last thing on your vette to make it TOTALLY stock NCRS class, I would go with the slotted shims.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,175
Likes: 3,989
From: Connecticut, USA
Rich,
That sound about right for 63-69 IRS alignment. It's not new and that how so many vettes ended up with bent strut rods. Shops don't know, don't care or both.
Since you have all new part it would be easier to do the job or should I say it's possible to do the job the "old way" which does require unloading the spring pulling the front bolt and replacing the shims. Maybe only a local vette shop would do it but be prepared to pay. I drilled the frame in my 69 and used the slotted shims and cotter pin. No regrets but that area of the frame is weld hardened so it's a PITA too but once you do it then you're good for life on it.
Around here the good shops get $125 per end for alignment and that's just the new style, if I trusted the morons to attempt an old style they would charge $80 per hour and who knows what they would wreck in the process.
Good luck, I'd drill the frame.
That sound about right for 63-69 IRS alignment. It's not new and that how so many vettes ended up with bent strut rods. Shops don't know, don't care or both.
Since you have all new part it would be easier to do the job or should I say it's possible to do the job the "old way" which does require unloading the spring pulling the front bolt and replacing the shims. Maybe only a local vette shop would do it but be prepared to pay. I drilled the frame in my 69 and used the slotted shims and cotter pin. No regrets but that area of the frame is weld hardened so it's a PITA too but once you do it then you're good for life on it.
Around here the good shops get $125 per end for alignment and that's just the new style, if I trusted the morons to attempt an old style they would charge $80 per hour and who knows what they would wreck in the process.
Good luck, I'd drill the frame.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 16,978
Likes: 7
From: In Dreams There Is Truth Ohio
It cost me $240.00 to do the front and real alignment...yes, I have the shims with the holes, not the slots. The alignment guy pulled the bolts out WITHOUT dropping the spring, both sides. Installed the shims and put the bolts through. The shop? Neighboorhood Good Year dealer.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 16,978
Likes: 7
From: In Dreams There Is Truth Ohio
only problem with the cotter key hole....another way for water to get in the trailing arm and rot for the inside out....that was my concern choosing not to use the sloted shims
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 365
Likes: 1
From: Glenview IL
If I decide to to the cotter pins, how long of a bit is needed?? I assume you drill from the outside in, and the bit has to be long enough to drill the inside of the pocket as well. Also, anyone have any dimensions/measurements on where the hole should be located?
I'll call my local Goodyear shops tomorrow and see what they say. The local Vette shop (which is a resto shop as well) is who I called today and they said they wouldn't touch it.
Thanks for the info guys. Keep it coming.
~Rich
I'll call my local Goodyear shops tomorrow and see what they say. The local Vette shop (which is a resto shop as well) is who I called today and they said they wouldn't touch it.
Thanks for the info guys. Keep it coming.
~Rich
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,752
Likes: 4
From: Austin Texas
I have a right-angle drill with a short drill bit for doing the cotter pin holes. The hole is located just below the frame doubler (reinforcement), and about 1/2 inch from the rolled edge. Check out a later C-3 to see the exact placement. 
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 365
Likes: 1
From: Glenview IL
Reviving an old post here, but I'm in the process of removing the 2-hole shims and putting in the slotted. Anyone have a picture of a later C3 to show the hole location for the cotter pin for the shims???? I know that dimensions were posted above, but I dont want to drill more than one hole! 
Thanks guys!
~Rich
Thanks guys!
~Rich
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,363
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From: Lansdale 19446 PA
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Unmodified
St. Jude Donor '10-'11, '15, '19
Originally Posted by GDaina
It cost me $240.00 to do the front and real alignment...yes, I have the shims with the holes, not the slots. The alignment guy pulled the bolts out WITHOUT dropping the spring, both sides. Installed the shims and put the bolts through. The shop? Neighboorhood Good Year dealer.
I used the slotted shims on my 69 and drilled holes for the cotter keys. Was a PITA to drill but makes it easier to re-align.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,926
Likes: 739
From: Youngstown Ohio
Originally Posted by GDaina
It cost me $240.00 to do the front and real alignment...yes, I have the shims with the holes, not the slots. The alignment guy pulled the bolts out WITHOUT dropping the spring, both sides. Installed the shims and put the bolts through. The shop? Neighboorhood Good Year dealer.
Had mine done at the local Goodyear also. The secret is finding a good alignment shop with an "old school" Corvette mechanic.