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Just took the valve covers off my '75 L48. WOW, it was really hard. Ended up taking apart alot of other things just to get it out. I'm trying to change the gasket on it, well not right now, but after I repaint the covers. Any advice on anything I'm doing? Like, "Whatever you do don't cut the red wire." I still have to pry off the old gasket and clean up the engine.
Put a straight edge on both surfaces of each valve cover BEFORE you paint them, to make certain they are straight/level, if not you need to correct before you paint. This can be a problem on the steel valve covers especially if someone has over tightened the valve cover bolts. You also may want to purchase some aftermarket extra large(long) brackets which go on top of the vavle cover, to help spread out the pressure on the cover when you re-install and tighten the cover bolts. I use loctite on the cover bolts to keep them from coming loose, if you decide to do the same, make sure both the bolts and the bolt holes are clean and dry before using. Secure gasket to valve cover with gasket sealant, when you install new gaskets.
Don't let any gasket crud fall down into the engine past the pushrod holes or the oil drainback holes... it will eventually find its way to the oil pan and plug up the oil pump intake screen.
Thanks guys. Looks like I already have the extra brackets on there so I just need to clean those up too. I've already plugged the oil drain holes until I'm ready to put the covers back on. I can't find how much torque to put on the bolts, so is it just until I can't turn them anymore? And the stuff that's mounted on the covers, how do I take those off? There's a nozzle that hooks up to a hose connected to the carb and a hose that connects to the air filter.
From: Exiled to Richmond, VA - Finally sold my house in Murfreesboro, TN ?? Corner of "Bumf*&k and 'You've got a purdy mouth'."
CI 6-7-8 Veteran
CI-VIII Burnout Champ
St. Jude Donor '06-'10, '13
Re: Take that, valve cover! (Buffalo Dude)
Thanks guys. Looks like I already have the extra brackets on there so I just need to clean those up too. I've already plugged the oil drain holes until I'm ready to put the covers back on. I can't find how much torque to put on the bolts, so is it just until I can't turn them anymore? And the stuff that's mounted on the covers, how do I take those off? There's a nozzle that hooks up to a hose connected to the carb and a hose that connects to the air filter.
The "nozzle" that hooks up to a hose connected to the carb. is most likely a PCV valve. Replace the valve and the gasket when you are done painting and before installing on the car.
The other hose that goes to the air filter is a "clean air" intake into the engine. The PCV valve allows engine vacuum to pull out the nasty air in the engine and burn it. The other one has a filter in the air cleaner that allows clean air into the engine. If you plug the breather hose then the PCV won't work correctly. If the breather filter is full of dirt, replace it. If it is full of oil, then the PCV is not working correctly.
And only tighten the bolts to "snug". Use a small nut driver or small socket and extension with NO RATCHET. Do not over tighten as it will ruin the gasket.
If you're not into the NCRS bag, it'll make your life a lot simpler if you replace the capscrews for the valve covers with a stud kit. Holds the gasket nicely in place while you work the valve cover into position. I think it also does a better job of sealing.