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What are the benefits of replacing with these instead of going back with original style?
I take my '68 out for general cruising, nothing extreme. Given that, my assumption is that the adjustable ones really aren't needed - would that be a correct assumption?
The theory is that they make the suspension travel in a straight line and not a slight arc. I've wondered too if this makes any noticeable difference. It seems like I've read a lot more threads about the adjustment screws backing off than threads about what an improvement the adjustable rods made.
For a street only cruiser, they're excessive and not needed. However, I like mine a lot because they definitely helped the handling toward the limits of my car.
But a better design for what and what does that really buy you?
That's what I'm trying to figure out. Almost everyone (both on this forum and my home club) said no, for what I do, go back with original style and wish it well.
Guess that is the way to go unless I see a compelling reason otherwise.
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by marks68
But a better design for what and what does that really buy you?
That's what I'm trying to figure out. Almost everyone (both on this forum and my home club) said no, for what I do, go back with original style and wish it well.
Guess that is the way to go unless I see a compelling reason otherwise.
look at the adjusting mechanism of the old strut rods....it use an eccentric to adjust the length.....how is that better then using adjustable strut rods.....the weak link of the old strut rod is the eccentric .....the weak link of the adjustable strut rod is the jamb nuts....just like on the tie rod ends...use lock tite and the problem is fixed.
look at the adjusting mechanism of the old strut rods....it use an eccentric to adjust the length.....how is that better then using adjustable strut rods.....the weak link of the old strut rod is the eccentric .....the weak link of the adjustable strut rod is the jamb nuts....just like on the tie rod ends...use lock tite and the problem is fixed.
I understand the adjustment piece. From a physics perspective I am trying to understand what that adjustment means other than the angle of the tire to the ground. Understanding that the angle will change (as it should) depending on the degree of the turn you are in R or L and degree of the turn wrt car being level.
That said, what does having the ability to change that adjustment buy other than changing the adjustment (and the various angles/contact patches above) if you aren't doing serious racing? Is there something I am missing??
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by marks68
I understand the adjustment piece. From a physics perspective I am trying to understand what that adjustment means other than the angle of the tire to the ground. Understanding that the angle will change (as it should) depending on the degree of the turn you are in R or L and degree of the turn wrt car being level.
That said, what does having the ability to change that adjustment buy other than changing the adjustment (and the various angles/contact patches above) if you aren't doing serious racing? Is there something I am missing??
yes when that eccentric gets rusted in place you are screwed...the eccentrics are the inexpensive way of doing this. i don't think the cost is much different between them.
There are two types of adjustable struts. One type goes back in the stock location (picks up the same bolt locations) the other uses a bracket that lowers the inner pickup point to change camber gain.
For crusing you need neither of these. If you autoX or track the car then being able to change the camber settings easily for the track is a good reason to swap.
On my 80 I use adjustable ones with rod ends. I also modified my bracket so I have two locating points.
There are two types of adjustable struts. One type goes back in the stock location (picks up the same bolt locations) the other uses a bracket that lowers the inner pickup point to change camber gain.
For crusing you need neither of these. If you autoX or track the car then being able to change the camber settings easily for the track is a good reason to swap.
On my 80 I use adjustable ones with rod ends. I also modified my bracket so I have two locating points.
Dave
I have just the adj. strut rods, not the Smart Strut (VB and P sells these) and they appear to be less likely, with the loctite on the jam nut, to loosen, where the originals seem to be able to lose adjustment easier, if the bolt would losen then the eccentric could turn.
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