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Old Mar 9, 2006 | 03:52 PM
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Default rear t- arms

guys, I'm in the process of getting the rear t-arms back in, how tight should it be to slide the shims along side?? should they just slide in or do they need some help ( tapping ).
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Old Mar 9, 2006 | 04:15 PM
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I just removed my T arms recently. They did require some force to remove, so some tapping would not be bad. You don't want them flopping aroud in there.
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Old Mar 9, 2006 | 04:15 PM
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i couldn't exactly tell ya, but i just did this last weekend. i was able to fit in three shims easily, but had to pound the 4th in with a hammer. a few solid whacks and it was in. just make sure you have an equal amount on both sides of the arm.

got it on the road and found a brake caliper was leaking (forgot the o-ring). gonna re-bleed the brakes, re-torque some bolts and she'll be good to go.
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Old Mar 9, 2006 | 05:00 PM
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You want some compression on the bushing. A Chevy dealer (won't mention their name) didn't install all of the shims that came in the kit when I had my car aligned several years ago, and the shims were only a slip fit. Ever time I got on the gas hard, the rear end steered the car around as the trailing arms moved . I drove my car for about a year this way before I decided to align it myself and fix the steering issue, and found out that the front trailing arm pivot was not tight in the frame. Nothing like having your toe-in change while driving.
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Old Mar 10, 2006 | 08:50 PM
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I did buy the tool and from what Gary and I have discussed the bushings should be compressed right, just seems like a big pain trying to get the shims in, I bought new ones and used the same thickness on either side that was already there.
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Old Mar 10, 2006 | 09:30 PM
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When replacing the t-arm bushings, don't expect the same size/number of shims to fit. Each bushing sets up a little different. Just get close enough to get it to an alignment shop. Have them just snug with the thru-bolt loose.
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