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With all the talk about cam lobe failure should I buy a roller or flat tappet? The engine is a 454 10.5 com. pistons,torkerII, with a comp xe274s solid flat tappet cam. I have the engine apart, so now would be the time to make a change. I checked the lobes they are worn down .001 to .002, the engine has 1500 miles on it and I used valvoline 20w50 racing oil from the start. Is this wear normal for the miles? Thanks Gary
First off how are you measuring the lobe wear. You should be using a dial indicator with the cam being rotated on the bearing surfaces. You need to make sure there is no movement when you are spinning the cam. I just pulled a 294S solid flat tappet out of my 5K mile motor. It had less than .001 wear to almost no wear at all.
Would I go roller? If I had a spare 1K dollars around. I went to a larger solid flat tappet on my new 383 motor. The roller will give you a few more HP than the flat tappet but a solid roller will need attention and replacement of the rollers way more often than a solid flat tappet. Also you need less valve spring with a flat tappet. There are pros and cons of each you need to weigh them both and make your decision.
I have broken in many flat tappet cams and never had a lobe go bad. I remove the inner spring on my solid flat tappets for break in then go to the dual spring setup. Little easier on the cam breaking it in.
I read an article once that claimed a 30hp improvement. Don't know if that's legit. I have a roller cam and I like it. But one thing to think about, you might need stiffer valve springs if you want to spin your engine to high rpm. The roller lifters are much heavier than the flat tappet ones.
There is a much cheaper way to go roller than the retrofit parts. Look up a thread (that I started) from a few weeks ago that led to a discussion of using stock GM parts that are less likely to fail, anyway.
I would say that your cam has some wear on it. Like I said mine was less than .001 on all lobes.
It is real tough to compare a flat tappet to a roller. They are two completly diffent cams. Even if they advertise the same duration they will be quite different. The rollers get the valve off the seat much faster and stay at a higher lift longer due to the roller design.
There is a much cheaper way to go roller than the retrofit parts. Look up a thread (that I started) from a few weeks ago that led to a discussion of using stock GM parts that are less likely to fail, anyway.
how did your install go, are you happy with the results?
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-‘19-'20-'21
I've had them all and if you got a lot of green....then go roller. Don't tell your wife how much your spending, or your be buying a new bedroom suite, too.(ha) I have a Crane roller and I love it, but I think I dished out about 800 not counting labor. But, I never have to wonder how it would be with a roller, tho. Larry
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
INHO if you want to go to a roller cam, then a solid roller is the only way to go.
This because a hydraulic roller will give you minimal if any gains at all over the same duratation solid lifter flat tappet cam and you will pay 3-4 times as much for it.
As a matter of fact if you put 1.6 roller rockers on the mechanical flat tappet cam if would out perform a similar duration hydralic roller cam
Now if you don't want to put a mechanical cam in for what ever reason then a hydraulic roller is a step up from a hydraulic flat tappet cam
Read that article twice - nothing 'bout 30hp more.
No flames torqvette, but u need to be careful making claims without using references to back it up. Hearsay kind'a feeds on itself as we all have the craving for more pwr. :o
But even with 30hp a $900 cam upgrade is close to $30 per pony - not cheap. And if u really only get 10hp it becomes an expensive dissapointment.