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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 09:21 AM
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Default Comp Cams Disclaimer

Got my new Comp Cams HE274 for the BB yesterday.. Opened the cam kit and there is a huge letter that IMO amounted to a disclaimer for cam failure. Comp goes on and on about potential failure because of modern oils....after reading I didn't want to install the cam because they were basically told me it won't last or don't expect it to last too long.

I guess I can by their recommended "magic" lifters (they didn't feel necessary to include the "good ones" in the kit (cam and lifters) to make the the whole deal less likely to "wipe", Or I can by their additive....again they didn't include it...but recommend it. I'm assuming if I don't buy all the stuff recommended they won't warrant the cam.

Just venting cause I can see how they're not going to cover the cam if it fails
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 09:38 AM
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AFAIK ... NO company has ever offered a written warranty for wiped lobe. The company is giving you a heads-up to dot your I's & cross your T's.

If the valve train is correct, cam installed correctly with new lifters & proper lube (as suggested in prior thread), properly broken-in, has scheduled oil changes w/ proper wear additives ... the cam will nearly always be OK. If you do ALL that CORRECTLY but have a failure ... sometimes the company will offer another cam (no labor).
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 10:02 AM
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Understand...for some on this forum, removing and replacing a cam is no big deal and the expense is no big deal either....but it's a serious consideration for me and to be steered in the direction by the company (as I read it) to expect failure....doesn't leave me with a good feeling that this install will be sucessful or even reliable. I sure hope that by following their instructions that everything will work well in the end.
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 10:37 AM
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Do a search, the topic has been discussed quite a bit. Seems like a lot of modern oils lack the additives necessary for a lot of these cams, especially hydraulic flat-tappets. The lack of zinc seems to be a big one. All this results from tighter EPA restrictions on emissions and all that...

From what I've heard, using Rotella 15w-40 diesel oil is an excellent choice, since it has plenty of these additives that the cams require and is readily available from places like NAPA. Other guys are using various racing oils with success. Good luck
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 10:44 AM
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Return it to them gor a refund and tell them why and then buy one from a co. that will stand behind their product. no biggie
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by 73 red vette
Return it to them gor a refund and tell them why and then buy one from a co. that will stand behind their product. no biggie



Any flat tappet cam from any manufacturer will require proper oils or additives. This is a lawyer label. No one stands behind their cams, if you don't use the proper lubes. As stated before, search on oils. There are several additives, racing oils, & diesel oils that will provide the proper lube for flat tappets. My understanding is that diesel oils will be reformulated in the coming years & the zincs will be drasticly lowered. The obvious solution is to move to rollers, but for many people that's a large chunk to bite off.
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 11:38 AM
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All this talk of oil reformulation and added cost of the motor oils involved makes me want to consider a roller cam conversion in my two Gen 1 blocks...
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 11:38 AM
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Return it.
Take your car to a local shop. Have them innstall a cam, break it in and warranty it.
Gary
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Hvymtlc5
Understand...for some on this forum, removing and replacing a cam is no big deal and the expense is no big deal either....but it's a serious consideration for me and to be steered in the direction by the company (as I read it) to expect failure....doesn't leave me with a good feeling that this install will be sucessful or even reliable. I sure hope that by following their instructions that everything will work well in the end.
Are you sure you are not a bit gun shy over the XE268 failures that a few folks reported? That in turn, became all Competiton Cams suck. I don't think any company in their right mind would put a letter in the box that reads "Thank you for buying this fine product....and now prepare for motor armageddon." You can thank a cooporate lawyer for scaring the crap out of you. I am sure this letter was introduced due to some of the XE failures that happened. I wonder how many successful XE stories are out there compared to the the failures? Usually, you only hear stuff when bad things happen.

For what it is worth, I put a CC 268H with CC lifters in my '80 and have had no issues with it. I broke the cam in with the their supplied 'red goop' and Quakerstate 30w in the crankcase.

Take a deep breath and move forward.
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 11:49 AM
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Absolutly
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 01:23 PM
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If you buy their springs, check them on an accurate, calibrated spring tester. The last set I bought were more than 10% below the minimum on 31 of 32 measurements (16 open, 16 closed). I called and had them pull a set off the shelf & test them before they sent me a replacement set..... same thing .... off the shelf out of spec.

Buyer beware.

I have a RIMAC professional spring tester and CompCams calibration spring made specifically for the RIMAC.

No way to philosophize out of this one.
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 01:55 PM
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go to page 3 it will make you feel better

http://www.holley.com/data/Products/...al/INST150.pdf
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 02:25 PM
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I will follow their procedures to the tee.....the heads are being completed again today (for the thrid time). Maybe I can get her running next week and the feelings of mental dispair and many $$ down the toilet will go away.
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 04:18 PM
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Wouldnt worry about it, any cam with an agressive ramp will have a shorter life. Put it in and drive the pee out of it, just make sure the valvesprings are set up correctly . Its my opinion that most failures are due to improper installation/setup. Had no problems with an XE 284 that I abused regularly. .
OR,
Put a 30 ear old grind in with gentle ramps and drive it 100k
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
Its my opinion that most failures are due to improper installation/setup.
then why did mine blow at 1400 miles after being installed by a race engine builder, then broken in on the dyno..
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Corz
then why did mine blow at 1400 miles after being installed by a race engine builder, then broken in on the dyno..
You just answered your own question.....
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Brettmc
You just answered your own question.....
how?
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 08:01 PM
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Cause YOU were drving it Corz!!



Just kiddin mang.


What kind of oil did they use? Any additives?

Brett
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Brettmc
Cause YOU were drving it Corz!!
I dont doubt that at all


Originally Posted by Brettmc
What kind of oil did they use? Any additives?

Brett
Im pretty sure just regular dino oil on start up.. hes been doing it for years so i know he didnt screw up
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Hvymtlc5
Just venting cause I can see how they're not going to cover the cam if it fails
As mentioned here on the forum in numerous threads, use a good brand-name oil, GM EOS, and plenty of lube on the lobes. Make sure it fires quickly and you know about the revs. After break-in, drain the oil and refill with a high zinc content oil. Then, enjoy your new lumpiness!

Did you get the laser-hole lifters like I suggested??


Brett
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