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Recommendations for radiator install?

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Old Mar 21, 2006 | 02:07 PM
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Default Recommendations for radiator install?

Just got my original radiator back with a new core, looks great! It wasn't too bad coming out, but expecting the re-install will be a different story. I will basically reverse the removal procedure (have done plenty of mechanical work myself), but looking for any words of wisdom from those with experience doing it. Thanks!
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Old Mar 21, 2006 | 02:32 PM
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Put the shroud in place first then slide the rad. in; shouldn't be too bad at all. Be sure to install new seals around the rad and shroud area.
Bernie
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Old Mar 21, 2006 | 02:35 PM
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I removed my old copper/brass radiator myself, but when putting in a new Dewitt radiator I decided not to chance it, I had my 14 yr old brother help me lower it down. Not too bad at all, less than one minute to lower it in, and a few more minutes to get the hold-down clamps bolted in. I highly recommend cleaning everything up front while it is out if you have not already done so; there is so much more room to work with.
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Old Mar 22, 2006 | 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by BerniesVette
Put the shroud in place first then slide the rad. in; shouldn't be too bad at all. Be sure to install new seals around the rad and shroud area.
Bernie
Thanks, that was my tentative plan since the shroud can be pulled towards the engine. And there will definitely be some clean-up, painting, etc. I never miss the opportunity for those steps when something is apart or off the car.
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Old Mar 22, 2006 | 12:17 PM
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I'm not familliar with your 72 but on my 75 (with A/C) the way to do it is to install them as a unit, shroud and radiator. Remove the top bolt only on the top rad. support and push it forward as far as it will go, have a friend hold one side of the radiator/shroud assembly while you hold the other while installing it. I cut some thin cardboard and taped it temporarily to the radiator on front and back to protect the fins, after it's installed you can easily remove it.

You may also need to close the windows in the garage so the neighbors don't hear you swearing and call the cops!!

Good luck!
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Old Mar 22, 2006 | 11:45 PM
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as a unit, replace the shroud / rad support seals, if not sealed, the air will pass around the radiator rather than through it. with out air going through it. the best parts in the world wont keep it running cool.
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Old Mar 23, 2006 | 12:15 AM
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You guys take the hood off for the r&r ?
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Old Mar 23, 2006 | 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by C3Racing
You guys take the hood off for the r&r ?
Yes, with the hood removed.

I just put mine in last night with a friend, here's generally the way it went in:

I did remove the two rubber seals on the right and left sides to get more room.

With the front rad support as far forward as it would go, insert the shroud alone so it's just past the upper "A" arm bolts. There's a couple of indents in the shroud that these fit into. Then while holding the shroud up a little preventing it from going in all the way, install the rad. tipping it so the drivers side bottom is down and get it as far to the drivers side lower corner as you can. Then work it around so the bottom right water snout gets past the upper right "A" arm bolt. Once you get the snout under the bolt, then the rad. shroud assembly can be slid into place. Then I re-installed the rubber seals on the sides. They're available from Doc Rebuild if you need them.

After it's in place remove the cardboard protecting the fins from the top.

You would think the right side should go in first to get the snout past the upper "A" arm but it doesn't. The key is to get the shroud down past the "A" arm obstructions but not down all the way before the rad is inserted.
There may be other ways to do this but this worked out for me pretty good and I didn't break anything.

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Old Mar 23, 2006 | 10:23 AM
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I managed to remove and replace the radiator with the hood on, and without doing anything to the radiator support, but I cut the shroud in pieces to remove and didn't need to replace it since I have the dual spals. It may be different if you intend on using the shroud and stock mechanical fan.
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Old Mar 23, 2006 | 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by C3Racing
You guys take the hood off for the r&r ?
No, I left the hood on for removal and will be leaving it on for the install. It's not necessary but can help.

Last edited by SharkAttack; Mar 24, 2006 at 09:33 AM.
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Old Mar 23, 2006 | 10:54 PM
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I dont need to do a rad yet but i see no reason why you have to take the hood off to r&r a rad..But i was allways told to take the hood off.
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Old Mar 24, 2006 | 07:09 AM
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The hood doesn't need to be removed. It wasn't in my way at all.
Bernie
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 01:22 PM
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Default UPDATE: Radiator install complete

This is the only way I could get the radiator back into the car, so I'm documenting it for fellow Forum members. This all assumes the fan & fan clutch assembly, fan mounting studs on the water pump, and other items generally in the way are removed. I was able to leave the alternator and belts installed. This was done on a 72 LT-1 with no A/C or P/S.

1. Assuming not already done while removing the radiator, remove the top four bolts of radiator support and loosen bottom two bolts. These are accessible through fender openings for the front tires.
2. Gently and carefully push the radiator support forward (towards front of car) as far as possible.
3. Insert the fan shroud to where the bottom rests on the lower radiator supports but the top leans on the engine (angled towards rear of car). This should provide ample room for the radiator to begin sliding down.
4. Install the right (passenger) side first to work the lower radiator hose bib around/under the A-arm. At a certain point, the hose bib will bind against the fan shroud and prevent the radiator from lowering any further. Work the shroud slightly up and towards the driver side and it will clear.
5. As the radiator lowers, pull the bottom of the shroud towards the engine (back of car) so the radiator lands on the lower supports.

I fought with what felt like every other possible install procedure, but all of them posed significant clearance issues that would result in something being broken. Hope this helps!
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