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I've installed my rebuilt trailing arms from Van Steel (BTW:Great service from those guys).
My plan was to replace the shims with new Stainless steel shims. I figured I'd put the same number on each side of the TA as I pulled out. I'm finding that I can't get the last thin shim in on each side, they only bend if I try to tap them in. I'm hoping it's because maybe the new bushing is wider than the old?
How tight must you get those shims in? I've tapped in as many as I can with a hammer. Is there a trick to get the last shim in? or is this not a big deal.? As I looked through the research, there doesn't appear to be an exact number of shims from the factory, rather it appears that each vette was shimmed until tight??? How tight is tight enough?
The shims are alignment shims. Every car is slightly different so there is not a right way to do this. Just try to get them back as close to what you had and take the car to an alignment shop. Take the shims with you as they probably don't have any there. The ywill put it on an alignment machine and shim it as needed. It is like a front end alignment for the rear arms.
The shims are alignment shims. Every car is slightly different so there is not a right way to do this. Just try to get them back as close to what you had and take the car to an alignment shop. Take the shims with you as they probably don't have any there. The ywill put it on an alignment machine and shim it as needed. It is like a front end alignment for the rear arms.
When the nut and bolt is tightened, it will snug the shims up fine.
I had the same situation but found it not a problem, I striped, treated and coated POR15 on the insides of my cross member t/a housings, I also installed Van Steels double off-set t/a's with poly bushings (real nice stuff), I took out 1 thick, 1 medium and 1 thin shim from each side of my original t/a's, when I installed the new assembly's I couldn't get the last thin shim in, I figured that with the paint and poly bushings I would have lost some shim room, I left the 2 (1 on each side) inner thin shims out and took it to a alignment shop, my rear alignment was dead on other than a few twist on the smart struts
I used the same technique as shimming the carrier. Put the thin shims between thick ones and tap them in together, if that is possible in your arrangment.
Would you mind telling us what you paid for the rebuilt arm? I went with the gentlemen in WI and am in process of getting it shipped backed. Cost me $300/ea for the rebuild with new bearings/SS P-Brake brains/etc...
I used the same technique as shimming the carrier. Put the thin shims between thick ones and tap them in together, if that is possible in your arrangment.
"Same process as shimming the carrier"...I'm confused
What shims for the carrier? The only shims I've found are for the trailing arms, and on my rear Spring (1978 FE7). Are you talking about the differential carrier? I didn't find any shims.
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As far as the TA's, I had them completely redone with new rotors, SS Parking brake, bearings, powder coat, etc. Looks brand new, from Van Steel. Priced at $380, but then they threw in the Forum discoount.
Van Steel did both Trailing Arms, Rebuilt the Differential, and threw in French locks, and strut/shock mount brackets and hardened trailing arm bolts. I'm happy with the deal I got (approx $1300). But I really didn't shop around all that much. Based on their phone conversations and Private emails, they are just so dang helpful and easy to work with.
I had to send something back that was mixed up, and they turned it in a matter of days. No Hassle, Just Great service. I absolutely recommend Van Steel if you want good product and customer service!
I've installed my rebuilt trailing arms from Van Steel (BTW:Great service from those guys).
My plan was to replace the shims with new Stainless steel shims. I figured I'd put the same number on each side of the TA as I pulled out. I'm finding that I can't get the last thin shim in on each side, they only bend if I try to tap them in. I'm hoping it's because maybe the new bushing is wider than the old?
How tight must you get those shims in? I've tapped in as many as I can with a hammer. Is there a trick to get the last shim in? or is this not a big deal.? As I looked through the research, there doesn't appear to be an exact number of shims from the factory, rather it appears that each vette was shimmed until tight??? How tight is tight enough?
Thanks
Swede
Did you purchase the Van Steel Suspension Video? Money well spent.
The video shows a rough alignment procedure for the trailing arms.
It is pretty straight forward - why not give them a call. Their Suspension Video is great.
I'm sorry......The differential carrier is shimmed on both sides, and also uses multiple shims similar to the trailing arm shimming arrangement. Instead of try to tap in a thin shim, sandwich the thin shim in between two thicker shims and tap that in. The thicker shims on each side of the thin shim helps support the thin shim so that it does not bend during installation.
I only used the carrier shimming as a reference. A small minority of board members have probably had the "opportunity" to shim in a differential carrier.......so that was probably not the best reference I could have used. My apology for not being more specific.