I'm about to get my 383 back from the builder. He has already installed the Vic Jr. and dropped in the HEI with the timing set in the ballpark. I intend to bolt up the Muncie and install it all as a unit. When I pulled the engine, I already had the heads off and used one of those tilting jobs. I used the four corner head bolt holes in the block and it was slicker than snot on a doorknob pulling the block/transmission out. The tilter worked great and I pulled it by myself in just a few minutes.

Now, with the intake and HEI already on, I'm not really seeing a way to use the tilter since the HEI will be right in the way. I could pull it out, but I'd still be stuck using the corner intake bolts and I'm not real fond of scratching up the new Vic. I've thought about using a carb pad lifting plate but have concerns about the weight of the complete engine/transmission assembly on the aluminum threads and raised runners of the intake. Plus with the carb plate....no neat tilter assistance.

I'm hoping some of you who do this more often than me (first time in probably 20 years) will have some tricks for me to use. I don't believe I ever tried to put one in with the dist installed, and I hate to undo work already done by my builder. I know he's got the timing a lot closer than I would if I pulled it and then dropped it in again after install.

 

If you don't have the radiator, A/C condensor and radiator support out, mark the distributor very well, both to the intake manifold and the rotor position, then remove the distributor and do the install.

You got the timing numbers from the builder...Right ???

 

use the bolt holes on the front and back of the heads, this is where the factory lift eyes were placed for lifting and they will hold both the engine and tranny up no problem with your tilter and will clear the HEI if you chains are long enough.

 

Going to get the timing spec when I pick it up on Tuesday but we've been talking 34-36 total to start . Once I get a few miles on it, we're going to put it on a chassis dyno and fine tune things anyway. I'm putting an O2 bung just past the collector so we can dial the carb in.

I've got the radiator out (original was leaking so I've got a Dewits replacement with fan kit coming on Tuesday too) but not the support. Don't have A/C so that's no problem...no PB so no booster, no PS so no hoses....pretty basic in there. I'd thought about just breaking out the sharpie and making a few marks on the dist and pulling it...that's probably what I'll do.

If I use a good sized washer on the intake bolts, I can probably get by without making any marks. I actually thought I might do something creative to save the soft aluminum by seeing if I could use bellhousing bolts on the back and find two on the front (water pump maybe?) I'm comfortable the bellhousing bolts would be fine, but not so sure about the water pump bolts. Plus I have an aluminum Weiand pump on the front so I'd have to pull it off too....so there I go pulling more parts off!

Anyway, any thoughts about the weight on the carb lift plate? I don't really know how much a SBC with manual trans would weigh, but it seems like quite a load for a few bolts run into an aluminum manifold.

 

I wouldn't use the carb plate or intake. How about the acc holes on the heads?

 

Chains are plenty long, but I really don't recall any holes at all in my heads where yours are located. I don't have accessory holes and the alternator mounts to the rams horns (keep forgetting to order the bracket for the header install...dayum old age sux!). I'll look when I pick it up. If there's holes in the heads, that will be wonderful.

 

By the way....say a little prayer for my baby. We already had KB Hypers installed before MSVETTEMAN had his fiasco. I'm as nervous as a cat in a room full of rockin' chairs right now. Hope I don't make any puddin' with my new stroker!!!!

 

The carb. plates are plenty strong. Use flat washers and grade 8 bolts. The carb. plate I use has 3 holes on the chain flange. Use the foward hole for installs with the trans. attached. I put the mounts on the frame, with the thru bolt installed. This allows easier installs, not having to worry about the frame mounts. Pull the cap and leave the distributor in, just watch the wiper motor! A floor jack under the trans. will allow the proper angle thru the x-member.