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I need to get started on replacing all the bushings in the front end and I was curious if I had to worry about the coil spring. I haven't actually looked at the front suspension yet to get an idea of where to start, so I'm asking this in advance. I'm just unsure of how the a-arm bushings and ball joints are going to be installed with the spring on there.
My dad says if I just jack the car up on the frame, the spring won't be under any compression and I'll be free to dissamble. I find this hard to believe from some of the previous posts I've read on the front springs...I may just rent a spring compressor from Auto Zone today.
I have a small block '70 that I just replaced my springs (along with bushings etc) on and I didn't need to use a compressor. But if it concerns you, rent a compressor from Autozone, just for peace of mind.....
The spring can be removed with a compresser but putting a stock spring back in will require the compresser, A 460 or 550 pound spring can be installed by hand.
To remove the old stock spring you can put the car on jack stands.
Remove the tire, the shock and back the upper ball joint nut off about 1/2 way. Using a pickle fork and the spring as a helper the ball joint will pop apart easily.
I use a floor jack under the A arm, raise the A arm until you are starting to raise the car off the Jack stands, remove the ball joint nut completely and then carefully lower the jack. The spindle will come out so be ready to catch it, Forgot the caliper must be removed earlier and can be hung by a wire with the line still attached.
Lower the jack, catch the spindle, it is still attached at the bottom, lay it to one side and lower the jack all the way,
At this point the spring is still under light pressure. Use a bar and finish prying the A arm down and the spring will pop out.
Good luck, be careful and the spring will come out like this
I just replaced the springs and ball joints on my father in-laws 37 Nash with a Nova sub. You have to jack up under the A-arm, put a jack stand under the frame, then pop the ball joints, then lower the A-arm slowly, from that point most of the spring pressure is safely released but not fully. Pry the spring out from the lower arm, be prepared it will still jump a little.Re-assemble in the reverse order. DO NOT I Repeat DO NOT pop a ball joint unless you are supporting the way I described or you use a spring compressor you will get hurt or worse. Have fun and be prepared the first side will take most of a day, the other side tends to go quicker.
If you have a knowledge of knots then it is really easy to take a nylon tow strap while the spring is compressed and tie the spring lengthwise so that it will not expand. Then it is truly simple to put the spring in.
I just did this job, but I'm doing a frame-off restore and didn't have the weight of the engine and car body to help, so I had to use a compressor for both install and removal. I have a stock spring which requires a good deal of compression to get it to a size where the steering knuckle will meet up with the upper ball joint. Follow Norval and evalu8r's advice for removal, but for a stock spring I'd definitely get a compressor when it comes time to put it back together, frame-off or not.
One problem I ran into when using the compressor to re-install was that the close-together coils go up inside the shock tower on my '70, and the compressor's arms got pinched up there when the partially-compressed spring was installed...it was a real pain getting the compressor out like that. So, make sure you don't go too high up on the spring when you're mounting the compressor.
Last edited by rick1500; Mar 24, 2006 at 12:15 PM.
Reason: specified '70, I think other years springs are installed differently.
If you have a knowledge of knots then it is really easy to take a nylon tow strap while the spring is compressed and tie the spring lengthwise so that it will not expand. Then it is truly simple to put the spring in.
Hauq,
Have you done this before? I'm guessing you tie it while it's still in the car and you only tie a few of the bottom coils, or are you somehow able to weave the strap throught the shock tower and in between the control arms and spring top/bottom to get the whole thing? Seems like there would be a lot of slack in the strap/knot (especially the knot, no matter how tight you tied it) which would allow the spring to uncompress a good deal as soon as you pop that upper ball joint (aren't tow straps designed to stretch though?). I keep thinking of a square knot, but there must be a better one that I'm not aware of. You've got me curious now...
I did this without a compressor coming out or going in. If you are popping the ball joints anyway, I see no reason for a compressor. I would recommend getting Van Steels video tape on re-building a front end too. I took it apart as mentioned above with the floor jack under the a-arm. I think Lars has a good paper on this forum on re-building a front end too. It may be under the C2 section though (same suspension). When I put it back together, I used 460 lb springs from VBP. They're a little shorter, so I was easily able to get them in. However, if you use stock springs, they are a little longer, so a little more trouble to get in. Tom at Van Steel gave a tip to put the top in, raise the lower a-arm a little, stick a pry bar through the spring and bend the spring to get the bottom in, and then jack it up the remainder. If it's a small block, you should be able to do this. Heck, if I can do it, so can you.
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