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i bought an Eagle Cast Steel Crankshaft and when i opened the box it has a tag that says NOTICE trial fit complete rotating assembly before balancing crankshaft! i thought taht they were balanced before they were shipped. TIA
I think they are only balanced if you buy the balancing option. Nontheless, you should always have the balance checked by your engine builder or machine shop. Mistakes can happen and it is your final responsability to verify correctness.
I think I saw somewhere on their website that only the forged cranks and rotating assembly is internally balanced. I think the cast ones have to be balanced.
Call them and ask if it has been balanced to a bob weight of a specific gram, usually they are and the cast is usually to about 1850 grams or so. In which case you just need to balance the rest of the parts (rod/piston assy) to the bob weight.
That's a stock stroke replacement-type crank for 350 ... if all you're doing is a rebuild ... then just put it together & don't worry about balancing ... it'll be darn close.
Originally Posted by LIQUIDDRAGON
i bought an Eagle Cast Steel Crankshaft and when i opened the box it has a tag that says NOTICE trial fit complete rotating assembly before balancing crankshaft! i thought taht they were balanced before they were shipped. TIA
I think I saw somewhere on their website that only the forged cranks and rotating assembly is internally balanced. I think the cast ones have to be balanced.
Internally balanced vrs External relates to the crank type and of course the version of flywheel that you will require. This has nothing todo with 'balancing'. To have an engine balanced typically means that the entire assembly...crank, pistons, rods, etc are balanced such as how a tire/rim is balanced. I recall Eagle offers this as an option, however it is not a good idea to buy a fully balanced rotating assembly if you are going to clearance some of the parts(such as required when building a 383). It is likely better to let your engine builder/machine shop balance the assembly after initial fit-up. IMO.
Do you have to get it balanced? Not likely for stock, but recomended. I think it only cost me $200 to have the full rototating assembly balanced.
Trial fitting means just that, making sure the rotating assembly physically fits inside the crankcase. I bought a stroker crankshaft with counter weights that interfered with the sidewalls of the crankcase, and not by a small amount that could be rectified by a little clearancing with a die grinder, the counter weights needed to be fly cut.
I bought a set of pistons that were supposed to be for a stroker application, and they were, just not for the rod length I was using. I took the rotating assembly along with the block to the machinist for boring and balancing. When I got everything back, upon assembly found the pistons protruded 1/8” above the deck, wrong pistons for the rod/stroke combination. Had to return the pistons for the correct ones and have the rotating assembly rebalanced a second time.
Point being is never assume anything when building an engine. Never assume the machinist machined your parts to the proper dimensions, never assume the bearings you bought are the correct ones for your application, never assume the piston clearance is correct for your engine, etc. There’s a lot of work in checking clearances when putting an engine together, but ultimately it will be up to you to do the verifications.