I'm in the process of converting my 82 Cross Fire to TPI. I could never get the idle to clear up but it ran out pretty good. When I started to tear things down I noticed the heads and under the intake was just caked with sludge. It was like warm soft black dirt, not flaky and hard. I could run a plastic putty knife right through it.

The engine has 67K on it and the compression checked out on all cylinders. I was pulling the heads to consider either a swap but more importantly to evaluate how the cylinders on the passenger side were burning. In my opinion, and it's based solely on my work on motorcycles and what I read here, the head and valves look great. The reddish color is from the recent injector cleaner but overall I have to say everything looks good.

How concerned should I be with the sludge other then attempting to clean up as much as possible? I'm shop vacing out whatever I can to avoid as much as possible the stuff dropping through the oil channels. I believe I can clean it pretty good and change the oil prior to firing the engine and again after it runs for about 20 minutes. Any advice is appreciated. I hate to pull the engine just because of the sludge as I suspect the lower end is in much better shape.

The cylinder walls look pretty good but I noticed some carbon build up on the pistons but that doesn't look too bad either.

I can send ultra high quality photos to anyone that wants to look a little closer. Thanks in advance, always appreciate the input I get here.

Last thought - I received some input that I should consider swapping out my heads because the significantly smaller intake runner sizes. After pulling the heads, it appears the intake has the small ports but the heads are fine, almost 25% larger then on the intake portion of the heads. Would I gain anything by moving to an L98 head (iron) off a later model 350CID? I'm open for suggestions on reasonable ($800ish) heads if there's a decent gain in performance. I cannot afford the aluminum ones right now so that's just out of my ballpark.

 

Come on engine gurus- speak up...He even provided some pics...TTT

 

The vette heads have a small 58/64 cc, It looks like that would not work with your pistons. You are "so" close to just pulling that engine, you could get it hot tanked and honed for cheap then just reassemble with new rings and bearings. Check out Trick Flow heads, there good aluminum heads for the price, I've got them and will be going TPI soon

 

Strange timing, I was just reading an article on a comparsion of L98 heads to the trick flow 23...appears the L98s were pretty good until the upper RPM range and then the trick flows really shined.

 

Ttt

 

I recently change the intake gasket on a 97 Tahoe I had (bought used). The lifter valley looked just like yours. My opinion is that this is a result of short driving trips that fail to get the engine up to temp. My dad still has a 77 ford 150 (with oil bath breather so don't say dirt injestion), he drove 1 mile to work and shut it off til lunch, drove home and back then back home. The truck now has 120k miles, second engine at 100k, after replacing main bearings in the origional at about 60K. My point is, those short trips don't allow the oil to get hot and flow properly leaving contaminants in the top. Could be caused by faulty pcv system too. I used wd40 to scrub the tahoe, I don't think I did anything but make it look better.

On the heads, going to a 58cc chamber will up your compression significantly, which should translate to more power. I believe each cc lower in chamber size equals .1 in compression gain. By going AL you should be ok. Because of budget constraints I have to change my head plans; I am now considering rebuilding some used l98.

 

Well I've decided to go ahead and pull the block as well. After pulling almost everything else to check, clean and paint I basically have a block, two engine mounts and the transmission bolts.

I'll put a floor jack under the transmission for support and I’ve ordered a 2 ton engine hoist and a stand.

I would like advice on where to place the bolts for the chains. Most pull the engine with heads and intake but I'm literally down to the block.

I assume the header bolts would be the right choice but before taking that leap please chime in.

Additionally, what should I expect to pay to rebuild the motor assuming new pistons and rings, gaskets, etc. I've had the heads done at Jay's Machine Shop in Temple, Texas. They did a great job so I'm thinking of going back to them for the engine. If anyone in the central Texas area has a personal experience with a shop please let me know.

 

I think it was a smart move to pull the motor your already there,if the chain your using has big enough links you can use 2 small head bolts and pull it from those holes.If your going back to same guy who did the heads ask him to recommend a cam after you figure out what your putting back in the motor as far as compression etc....

 

You could pull the oil pan and clean it in the car, but you will never get all those little pieces of carbon out. At this point, I would pull it, tear it down, and have it cleaned. New rings and bearings, change cams/lifters and put it back together. Shouldn't be too expensive.

 

Ok, engine is out, really not that bad of deal to pull it.

I guess it's late to ask but should I have pulled the torque converter off first? I could have rotated the engine and removed the three bolts from the bottom? With the right tilt the whole thing came out and while it brushed against the top of the radiator shroud it was pretty easy going and I did it by myself. Just kept an eye on the transmission to ensure I had it supported and all went well.

I have a feeling putting it back will be a bit more of a chore alone. Maybe longer temp bell housing bolts just to get things close?


Engine stand $37.98

Scratched and open box 2 ton engine hoist for 40% off the sale price - $78.80

Pulling your first V8 – Priceless

 

Anyone? Suggestions on the best reinstall method.

 

I have no more room for large tools so I rented a puller with a adjustable strong back ($40.00 for 4 hours), I had it all set up with the engine tilted at the right angle over the engine bay, my wife operating the valve while I guided it in, took 20 minutes at the most. The torque converter should stay in the car, I wired it to the bell housing to keep it in place, you can damage your trans pump by takeing it out and not having it aligned properly while installing the engine. Oh by the way you will want a new oil pump and shaft (real cheap insurance), gaskets (check out the single oil pan gaskets, there cool), bearings, cam, rod and crank, rings, paint because you will also be detailing the engine compartment, motor mounts, ect.. You will have a great erge to make everthing look new and this can get expensive

 

Did I damage anything by pulling it with the torque converter? At what point did you pull the wiring that held the TC in place?

I kept the angle of the transmission and engine together until the very end and then the engine was titled way up in the front to remove it. The shaft on the transmission looks fine as does the torque converter. My factory service manual is not very helpful in this area.

 

I doubt that you did any damage to the converter itself,however I suggest you replace the front pump seal in the trans before you reinstall. Also reinstall the torque conv. to the trans first when you are ready to put eng. back in. and leave the flex plate on the eng. Make sure that the torque conv.is compleatly into the pump when you reinstall. Just hold the conv. by the center "****" in the front and rotate and jiggle the conv. till it slips into place. You'll know it's in when the conv. no longer protrudes past the front of the bell housing. It should not be too difficult. Also clean every part you can real good and with some fresh paint in the eng. comp. and on the eng. you will be very pleased with the results.
Later,
Sly

 

Thank you

Is the front seal a prevention issue because I have the engine out? If so, I'll get one on order.

 

Yes, you likely deformed the seal. You can get one at any auto parts store. Be sure to read up on putting the converter back. It must go in all the way or you will damage the front pump, this is any automatic, not just a 700R4. Basically you push the converter in while turning it. This will align the notches on the converter with the front pump.

 

Well since you pullled the torque convertor with it you could have damaged the seal,so put a new one in.Then put the convertor back on but make sure you get it back in place right.

 

Ok, went to order and there are a couple of brand and versions that have like a redi or quick sleeve option? Any particular brand I should be buying? and does redi or quick sleeve do anything for me?

 

Ttt

 

I can't really answer your question because I kept the trans with the converter to prevent any damage. Just remember to have the converter properly attached to the trans (tie it down to prevent it from moving forward and aft) and your fly wheel torque’d to the crank. When you connect the trans to the engine you will align the converter bolt holes with the fly wheel bolt holes and fasten the trans bell housing to the engine, then attach the 3 bolts common to the fly wheel and converter simply by rotating the engine to gain access on the bottom.