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The passenger side rear strut rod is obviously bent on my '73'. I talked to a guy that told me it is quit common for people to bend them intentionaly to correct the alignment, when they don't know how to correct it any other way.
My car tracks great, tires wear perfectly. If I replace it, how hard will it be for me to keep it in the proper alignment?? How do I achieve that? Any input would be very helpful, Thanks.
Get the Vette Brakes adjustable strut rods. They look ****. I couldn't stop staring at mine when I got them. Then I powder coated the strut rod bracket, installed them, and I still can't stop staring. Not only that, but they are MUCH better for alignment, and they hold alignment better. Get rid of that bent crappy rod, and get them. They are worth the $100.
The bent strut rod should be replaced along with the bolt and eccentric used to adjust the rear end. These parts are available and relatively easy to install.
The strut rod controls the camber. If you want to replace one measure with a level on the tire the amount of camber. Install the new rod and adjust the inner cambered bolt until the reading on the level is the same as before.
Crude but works
Norval
A bent strut rod can be happen because of some unknown factor like hitting something or more likely some "bubba" mechanic decided to adjust the camber by bending the rod with a hand sledge. This is a common problem. You don't necessarily have to replace them. My 66 had two strut rods with very large curves in them. I took them out, had the shop straighten them and install new bushings. The whole affair cost around $50 if memory serves me right.
Gary
IF you use the vette brakies adjustable strut rods, you should take them apart first, and coat the threaded rods with RTV silicone seal, so line the threads against rust...the water will work it way into the center part and sieze the threads....making readjustment hard to impossible....
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Re: Bent Strut Rod- Help (a1parrothead)
Replace, or straighten that rod, but beware! The fact that it is bent may well indicate that someone was unable to adjust it, because it has seized. So, you replacement job may be difficult! If it's a DIY job you'll need to obtain a shock mount removing tool to get the shock mount out (outside end) and you'll need to have the bushings replaced in the rod. I also suggest a new inner cam adjusting kit (beware who you buy from here to ensure an "as original" specification... mine from MAD were hopeless!). Adjustment is actually the easy part, use a spirit level to get the wheel virtually upright with a hint of negative camber, and then off to an alignment shop. Finally, if you're going to do one side, best to do both! Bushes at least anyway....
If your car handles fine as it is and if the tire wear is good, leave the bent rod under there until alignment time arrives. It's not doing any harm at the present. Come alignment time, order a new rod, bushings, and cam bolt kit and replace the bent rod at that time.
All good points made in the above posts. One thing not mentioned is that alignment shops very often bent the struts because the cam adjustment could not bring the bottom of the spindle support back in far enough to compensate for the tips of the differential side yokes being worn off. So... jack the car up, grab hold of the top and bottom of the tire and forcefully move the diff yoke in and out. Look carefully at the point where the yoke goes into the differential... if it's more than 1/8", then there may be a problem inside.
Replace them at alignment time. The original strut rods suck compared to the poly-adjustable ones offered by VB. I agree they look GREAT as compared to stock equipment. Plus it made the rear of my car feel tighter. When cornering with the stockers they will flex and you don't want that. I would leave it alone untill it needs the alignment though. I thought it was odd to bend these for the adjustment :eek: but thats how they did it.