When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have been reading the threads dealing with the Jeep steering box installs. I am in the process of installing a 2004 Cherokee box in my 72. I am using the same method as Corvette Steering. I have a small web page showing how I made the parts necessary to do this installation if anyone is interested.
You did a fantastic job of documenting it for others but I feel with the motor out and your fabricating skills wouldn't it have been easier and better to just cut a piece out of the frame and insert a piece of 3/8th steel plate with the proper 4 holes drilled and taped to mount an unmodified box???
Last edited by norvalwilhelm; Mar 30, 2006 at 08:38 AM.
How did you get around the input shaft of the jeep box. A stock jeep box has a .650 double D flat while a flaming river double D universal is only .625??? The 1 inch by 48 spline steering shaft is not a problem but you either open up the double D or reduce the size of the shafts on the box
How did you get around the input shaft of the jeep box. A stock jeep box has a .650 double D flat while a flaming river double D universal is only .625??? The 1 inch by 48 spline steering shaft is not a problem but you either open up the double D or reduce the size of the shafts on the box
Norval,
I will do as you did and enlarge the double D side of the universal. I really considered cutting the frame but decided to try it this way first. If I don't like it after things are back together and I drive it I'll cut the frame.
Norval,
I will do as you did and enlarge the double D side of the universal. I really considered cutting the frame but decided to try it this way first. If I don't like it after things are back together and I drive it I'll cut the frame.
The Double dee just needs a small cut, even file it to make it fit the stock box. The kits reduce the flats on the input shaft but I prefered to open up the universal.
The flaming river universal comes apart easily for working on
Maybe I'm a chicken, but I'd be very afraid of a welded pitman arm.
If I wasn't comfortable with my welding ability then I too would not weld on the pitman arm. I welded mine with a stick welder. I knife edged it as Norval explained in a previous post, and cleaned and ground away every trace of slag before making another pass. After it was completely built up I turned it over, ground out the root, or bottom, pass and finished the buildup. I will guarentee there are no voids or slag in the area I welded. If you take a look at at the steering assembly the pitman arm, especially the Jeep arm, is not the weak link. I am sure the pitman arm (even welded) will withstand much more abuse than tie rod ends, idler arm, ect.
If I wasn't comfortable with my welding ability then I too would not weld on the pitman arm. I welded mine with a stick welder. I knife edged it as Norval explained in a previous post, and cleaned and ground away every trace of slag before making another pass. After it was completely built up I turned it over, ground out the root, or bottom, pass and finished the buildup. I will guarentee there are no voids or slag in the area I welded. If you take a look at at the steering assembly the pitman arm, especially the Jeep arm, is not the weak link. I am sure the pitman arm (even welded) will withstand much more abuse than tie rod ends, idler arm, ect.
spongebob46 you did it exactly as recommended for a void free weld. It will not break. Welding if done properly is as strong or stronger then the parent material.
The offroad guys weld up parts all the time and with the big 44 inch tires really subject them to abuse.
Roger my Cascar builder welds suspension parts all the time and then abuses them without a problem.
No I don't agree that it will be a problem. Like spongebob46 said the tie rod ends are far far weaker then the massive Jeep pitman arm'
Good job spongebob46
Norval, thanks for the vote of confidence. I guess everyone must assess there own skill and comfort level when doing any repairs or modifications. I have worked in the maintenance field my entire life and have repaired everything from cardiac and surgical equipment to large industrial chillers (BIG air conditioners) and agricultural equipment. For me there was never any doubt about welding a pitman arm.
Norval, thanks for the vote of confidence. I guess everyone must assess there own skill and comfort level when doing any repairs or modifications. I have worked in the maintenance field my entire life and have repaired everything from cardiac and surgical equipment to large industrial chillers (BIG air conditioners) and agricultural equipment. For me there was never any doubt about welding a pitman arm.
Your skills brings me right back to my originial question? Why didn't you just insert a plate in the frame? With your skills it would be simple and solve all problems of mounting the box.
You have ths skills required to do anything. Use them
Norval,
When you did your install you had the advantage of having the actual steering column to locate the jeep box. I put together a retractabe jig to locate the jeep box off the the location of the stock steering box. My jig would slide down over the input shaft. This gave me a left to right location and the angle for the input shaft. Not having the actual steering column to locate off of was the deciding factor in not cutting the frame. I felt the Corvette Steering method gave me a little more "wiggle room" if I need to adjust the alignment of the box when I put the body back on.
I didn't quite understand why this pitman arm had to be modified.
You said it would only line up in 90 degree increments? Is this lining
up with the steering linkage, or lining up with the jeep box?
Boy it would be nice to not have to modify the pitman arm to make this
changeover...
Seems the other parts of the job are much simpler...
Adam,
The pitman will only fit the output shaft on box in four locations. With the box at the center of it's travel and the steering linkage centered, the pitman is not even close to lining up with the stud on the relay rod. If memory serves me correctly, I think the end of the pitman was about 2" to the right of the relay rod stud. To make them line up I cut a wedge out of the left side of the pitman arm in the thick part near the steering box. I did not cut completely through the arm. I left a thick enough section holding it together that I had to heat it to bend it. After I bent the arm and was satisfied with the alignment I cut the knife edge and preped the cut for welding.
You know that old saying " A picture is worth 1000 words"
The one on the left is the stock jeep and the one on the right the vet. With any kits the box comes with a remachined pitman output so the stock pitman arm is used