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I've read a couple guys had trouble installing the steeroids kit with the hooker side headders, that they had to modify their headders to make it fit. Is this true as I am about to order a kit and want to get all the details.
I changed my headers to Dynomax to avoid the problem. From The Speed Direct website, here:http://www.speeddirect.com/index.aspx?nodeID=87 It looks like you will need to put a ding in one of the downpipes on the drivers side.
Do you have a small block or big block. I have a big block with the Hooker headers with Steeroids and it fit together without modification to the headers. It's close, but even with the engine rotating it still should not hit.
I have a 79 with small block. Chrome headers too! Not too sure what to do because my steering box is pissing out fluid and a new one is $400, I might as well go with the steeroids kit, but dont want any trouble along the way!!
Not many options then. Take a large socket, wrap it in a heavy cloth and beat the header with a large hammer until the dent clears the steering. You run the risk of cracking the chrome in which case you will just have to send it to Jet-hot and get it re-chromed. I have ceramic coating on my 454 hooker headers and I've heard from many members that using the above method did not damage their ceramic coating, not sure how it will treat the chrome though. If you want the roids steering then your headers have to change. If you don't want to change your headers then drink some beer, settle on spending the $400 for a new steering box and envy the Acura next door for its rack & pinion. $1,200 roids + $rechroming vs. $400 steering box.
The voice in my head would whip out my charge card and go with the roids and jet-hot...but thats just me. Its summer cruisin time!
Your other option is to do your own conversion as many people have. This will let you move the rack around until you find a position that either eliminates the need to modify the headers, or minimize it. You could also buy the kit and modify it if you don't want the hassle of putting your own system together.
That sucks, I just ordered my hooker super competition chrome headers yesterday (found them for $1299 w/ pipes) and I just got my steeroids kit delivered through the group purchase earlier this week. I really want chrome. Not sure what to do?
Don’t get discouraged yet. I have a 75 with hooker headers / sidepipes , a smallblock, Steeroids, and 550# front springs. I didn’t modify the headers because they are the Jet Hot coated. The problem was that the double U-joint is too close to one of the header tubes. I took the Drummel tool and trimmed the fat off the U-joint part that was close. After that it works fine.
i have this same set up on my 350... hooker sidemount headers and steeroids steering. there was contact between the shaft and the header, but a longer intermediate steering shaft (the splined one) by about an inch, was the perfect fix to the problem.
Hope you didn't trim too much off that U-joint. Thats what makes you go straight and make turns. Be careful...I'd personally rather mod the roids or headers then mess with the integrity of my steering. You'd be suprised at the stress making a hard turn can put on the most unsuspecting pieces of steering linkage. But if you can do it safely more power to ya.
Why don't you use the jeep steering box conversion? Half the cost of steeriods and gives great steering feel and response according to those who have made the swap. Some that have made the steriods swap said they didn't have as good a feel for the road with the steroids. Just a thought.
Bernie
I posted the problem i had with clearance on another thread. I bought my steeroids in 2003 and installed it then but havent got car running yet. Since it was so long ago i couldnt remember the exact problem and after going out and looking at it i remember now. I had it all cleared and then put in my set screws and those are the problem im having. Mine looks like yours except for one thing that appears to be different on mine. It looks like your set scews on the joint connenting to the shaft under the header are flush. Mine stick way out and have a jam nut on them and thats what is hitting my header. Am i seeing it correctly that the set screws are flush? (the 2 in the area that smaller diameter under the header) If so im thinking they revised the kit since i got mine. Thanks for the pic.
Local Hardware store and got some stainless ones a bit shorter or just grind the ones you have until they fit flush when tight.
Oh and lock tite when you abandon the jamb nuts.. I'm gonna take mine back apart an stick it in the lathe and put a grove on the joint and a slot on the screw and safety wire the bugger.
I did the slot trick in the lower set screws where they hit the motor mount. Not the solution I'd expect for that much money but the steering is SO much better I'll deal with the warts...
Last edited by 84rzv500r; Mar 30, 2006 at 08:08 PM.