I thought I was paying close attention while doing the frame off resto of my 69 for the past two years. Low and behold, I forgot to put the brake light switch and bracket in. Another problem is that I went from manual to power brakes and had to move the rod from the top hole to the bottom and the two switch brackets don't line up.
Has anyone else faced this situation with not only the bracket alignment but the brackets themselves being left out. The only solution I see is to remove the dash, steering column, and pedal housing (again) in order to fabricate and install.
Any helpfull suggestions would be appreciated.

 

I just went through this on a 68. My 4 speed 68 has power brakes and the 68 only brake switch that does not use the switch bracket that the 69 up use. However, when I took the pedal assembly out I noticed the clevis that went to the booster was in the bottom hole (on the brake pedal).

So, I rebuilt my pedal ***'y and put it back in. Once again I looked at my AIM manual and the clevis was mounted in the lower hole. I found out my bake switch was broken and a new 68 only switch was $100. Then I get the bright idea to use the 69-up switch brackets and buy a switch at NAPA for $10. This is a picture from the ad that I put in the Forum parts needed section (brackets highlighted in yellow):



Now the problem is, the brackets attach to the pedal in the same lower hole as the clevis for the rod that goes to the booster! You may be able to see that from the picture.

So then I buy a 4 speed 71 pedal assembly with the switch and brackets mounted in the bottom hole just like it left the factory and the clevis still attached also in the top hole. So I rebuild this assembly thinking the clevis must be attached in a different place on a 68 and I just went through a lot of trouble for nothing. Here is a side view of the 71 pedal assembly after restoration:



To make a long story longer (with pix), now I find out the 71 assembly I have is for a non power brake car. The mounting to the firewall is different. I wish I knew the answer to your question. I've been through AIM manuals of just about every year and all show the switch bracket mounted in the lower hole and the clevis in the upper (except for a 68). I think I posted a question about this on this forum and got no response but that is typical for the questions I ask! Maybe you will do better, I hope so.

 

The problem is that I have no room to work or reach up to put the brackets on. It is very difficult to fabricate with little to no room laying upside down.

It sucks because after two years and countles hours of working to restore all I want to do is drive it. Now it looks like I'm going to spend all weekend pulling the dash, steering column, and pedal assembly out.

 

I am doing a manual to power swap on my 71 also. I did notice you have to use the lower holes and redrill for the firewall for the booster to line up. what extra brackets do I need. my body is off and the dash is out also. sorry I can't help, but pulling my dash only took about a hour. one thing I learned in my 30 years as a tech is, it is it faster and easier in the long run to get things out of your way so you have room to work. don't fight it it will take longer an just make you more fustrated. good luck

 

BDVT69 I don't think you need to pull the dash and the other stuff to add the two brackets and switch. They are easily accessed from below and are made to be adjustable from below. Also, the switch is commonly replaced from under the dash. I don't think I made it clear in my post above, there is a difference in a power brake pedal assy and a non power. The power brake assy will have 4 slotted through holes to accommodate the booster and the manual will have two lower weld nuts and two upper through holes.


The big question here is in yours and gator79's question. Which hole is the one that a power brake clevis goes in?????????????? I think someone on this forum knows the answer.