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What do I do about my Hooker headers hitting my frame?

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Old Mar 31, 2006 | 01:16 PM
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Default What do I do about my Hooker headers hitting my frame?

Below is a photo. My chrome Hooker Headers are hitting my frame. I don't want to ding the headers in fear of cracking the chrome. I don't wan't to leave them because I know they'll rattle against the frame. What have others done? The engine is a big block. Thanks

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Old Mar 31, 2006 | 01:31 PM
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My Hooker headers are on a SB and I didn’t have the problem. You may be able to get a different set from where you got them from. I expect there are slight variations in every set. Do you have Poly engine mounts? I think they will raise the engine a fraction of an inch, and that may be all you need.
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Old Mar 31, 2006 | 02:21 PM
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I was going to suggest new or poly mounts also.
Frank
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Old Mar 31, 2006 | 04:01 PM
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I've got brand new poly mounts already installed. Thanks for the replies. Anyone else?
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Old Mar 31, 2006 | 05:02 PM
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This really concerns me also as I am getting my car out of the shop in April and had plan to instantly buy a set of SB Hooker Super Comp's and totally redo the exhaust system. I have seen numerous posts recently about them hitting the frame so now I am possibly looking to buy another brand. Sounds like maybe somehow this batch of headers is different from prior year batches. Maybe bubba sat on the jig and bent the damn thing causing all these problems.
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Old Mar 31, 2006 | 06:22 PM
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Mine didn't hit but I marked the tube with a grease pencil... took the header back off and used a block of wood, a rag and a hamer and put a SLIGHT Flat Spot in the tube to give 1/8 - 3/16 clearnace.... just so it wouldn't hit and rattle. I have Jet Hot Flat Black coating... BBC and new poly mount.

the bigger problem I had was the O2 sensor in the #8 header tube

Sorry for the poor Pic quality...

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Old Mar 31, 2006 | 08:40 PM
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I installed a set of Hooker Headers (sidepipes) in 1973 (?). I had a lot of problems. This was for a 1969 C3. I called up Hooker and they said if their headers didn't fit, it was because my car had probably a frame that was bent. I had bought this 69 in 70. Anyhow, the mechanic I hired to install the engine, using a little bit of an impact hammer to dimple the headers, got the headers to fit. It certainly appears, that now in the year 2006, Hooker headers are still not fitting that well.

I can appreciate the problem. I think that with a BB and headers, there's really very little clearance with the steering box.

It's absolutely astounding to me to read that problems I had 30 years ago are still in happening today.

I plan to put headers on my 1970. I have a spare frame, and I'm going to mount the engine (BB) on the frame and mount the headers very early in the rebuild process to make sure the headers will fit. I'd like to know if there are other vendors than Hooker than manufacture these sidepipes....duhhh that fit.
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Old Mar 31, 2006 | 08:53 PM
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I had to "message" mine with a board covered with a cloth.God forbid you use a head that has a raised exhaust port.
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 12:02 AM
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Maybe a solid mount on one side to keep the engine from torqueing over?
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 12:33 AM
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dent the frame ????
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 09:24 AM
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What does the other side look like diminsionally? Do you think the engine can be moved a bit?
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 03:59 PM
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maybe solid mounts. the interior noise won't be too bad since the body is mounted to the frame with rubber biscuit isolaters.

If it still don't fit with solid mounts, maybe you can modify the solid mounts to move the engine over 1/8". I modified my Moroso solid mounts to lower the engine slightly. I cut off the mounting ears from the engine-block mounting plate, and re-welded them on to suit my needs.

You might not need to do that since the holes for the mount/frame long bolt are a little oversize to allow some adjustment to start with. Loosen the mount/frame bolt, and use your engine hoist to take the engine-weight load off of the mounts, and a pry-bar to move the engine over, and then lower the engine while maintaining leverage with the pry-bar.

To get even more wiggle room, you can try loosening the 3 bolts that attach the mount to the block, just so the mount can be wiggled a little, at the same time you got the load off.

make sure you don't end up with the LH header then contacting the steering box on the other side.
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 10:46 PM
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This may cause some of you to hate me but my car was Holley's (Hooker's) test mule for the sidepipe headers for the big blocks. Of course this only has an effect if you bought your headers within the last year. I just went out and checked my car and there is plenty of room there on my car (matching numbers big blocks car), Are most of the fitment problems with BB swaps?


Pat Kunz
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 03:06 AM
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I have a 71 BB with hedman headers and had to ding them at the steering gear and also for the passenger frame. not much room for headers on a big block.
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by 73 LS-4
This may cause some of you to hate me but my car was Holley's (Hooker's) test mule for the sidepipe headers for the big blocks. Of course this only has an effect if you bought your headers within the last year. I just went out and checked my car and there is plenty of room there on my car (matching numbers big blocks car), Are most of the fitment problems with BB swaps?


Pat Kunz
...and I have Pat's old ceramic super comps to run through my Dynomax mufflers and factory rear-exit system. Left side is done, no clearance problems. Right side is in progress as I get free time (maybe next weekend).
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 12:09 PM
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kinda weird how we all line up just a little different. My headers just barely cleared the steering box on the drivers side, but hit the idler arm on the pass side. Fortunately they didn't contact the frame and I was able to move the idler arm - it only took a small fraction of an inch.
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