Brake booster removal?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 936
Likes: 0
From: Tulsa OK
Brake booster removal?
I'm cleaning up under the hood and that nappy looking brake booster is really starting to bug me. Especially after painting the master cylinder. So what I'm wondering is if a) it is going to be a royal PITA to take off the booster so it can be cleaned up and painted and b) can it be done without removing the lines from the MC so I don't have to bleed the brakes again (like maybe slided the MC forward with the lines still attached to allow me to then remove the booster. I know it's probably wishful thinking, but thought I'd ask.)
I've already cleaned up and painted the headlight canisters, so I'm hoping to do the booster next. Plus that'd let me get in closer to the firewall on that side too.
I've already cleaned up and painted the headlight canisters, so I'm hoping to do the booster next. Plus that'd let me get in closer to the firewall on that side too.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,545
Likes: 3
From: 406ci SB, AFR 180 Heads - 490 HP @5,600 RPM 529 lb-ft @ 4,100 RPM
you wish, the master will have to come off, or you'll bend your brake lines trying. Don't forget you have to move the booster forward towards the front of the car some distance. Remember you ask
Pro
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 741
Likes: 47
From: Indianapolis IN
When I took my brake booster out of my 75, I was taking the master cylinder off anyway, but I think the master cylinder will have to come off - those brake lines aren't that flexible.
Once the master cylinder is off, it's not too bad taking off the brake booster, assuming you're flexible enough to get your hands up under the dash. The only snag that I ran into was that my booster had been a replacement one, and so it had metric nuts holding it in. Since none of the other fasteners on my car were metric, I was trying to use english sockets, and couldn't get those to work. After way too long of time, I was finally exasperated enough to try metric sockets, and the booster was out shortly thereafter.
Once the master cylinder is off, it's not too bad taking off the brake booster, assuming you're flexible enough to get your hands up under the dash. The only snag that I ran into was that my booster had been a replacement one, and so it had metric nuts holding it in. Since none of the other fasteners on my car were metric, I was trying to use english sockets, and couldn't get those to work. After way too long of time, I was finally exasperated enough to try metric sockets, and the booster was out shortly thereafter.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 936
Likes: 0
From: Tulsa OK
Originally Posted by Glass Act
you wish, the master will have to come off, or you'll bend your brake lines trying. Don't forget you have to move the booster forward towards the front of the car some distance. Remember you ask 
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 24,160
Likes: 78
There is very little play in those steel lines. You won't move the booster/MC assembly more than an inch or so without pulling them loose. And have fun getting the booster out! That top left nut is a beotch! I was barely able to get it using a combination of 2 extensions, a joint, and a wobble socket. 
That top left nut is a beotch! I was barely able to get it using a combination of 2 extensions, a joint, and a wobble socket.
Last edited by wcsinx; Apr 3, 2006 at 02:26 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 2,675
Likes: 13
From: Sudbury MA
I would rather pu;; the engine and transmission than to pull the booster again.
I removed mine in the process of my total restoration and I can honestly say it was one of the worst jobs of the whole 10 year long resto. Getting at the top left nut with the dash in the car was a nightmare and I have a garage full of tools and used every conceivable combination. My wife never knew that I knew so many swear words as when i did that job. I had to have mine rebuilt so it had to come out. Never again.
Kurt
I removed mine in the process of my total restoration and I can honestly say it was one of the worst jobs of the whole 10 year long resto. Getting at the top left nut with the dash in the car was a nightmare and I have a garage full of tools and used every conceivable combination. My wife never knew that I knew so many swear words as when i did that job. I had to have mine rebuilt so it had to come out. Never again.
Kurt
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 24,160
Likes: 78
Oh come on, Kurt, it ain't that bad.
What I did was to reach up there and first just stick the socket on the nut then from the socket assemble piece by piece the series of extensions/joints until I had enough throw on the wrench. It's all by feel. You might as well blindfold yourself.
I think automatic tranny cars might be slightly easier. I know on my car the main thing in my way is the clutch pedal stuff.
What I did was to reach up there and first just stick the socket on the nut then from the socket assemble piece by piece the series of extensions/joints until I had enough throw on the wrench. It's all by feel. You might as well blindfold yourself.
I think automatic tranny cars might be slightly easier. I know on my car the main thing in my way is the clutch pedal stuff.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,545
Likes: 3
From: 406ci SB, AFR 180 Heads - 490 HP @5,600 RPM 529 lb-ft @ 4,100 RPM
Originally Posted by Xakk
Welcome to my little fantasy land, where headlights and washer doors always work and trailing arm bolts always slide right out on the first try!