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Hi Jason,
I'm runnin a 1" front and a 5/8" rear sway bar. Both have a spring end link on one end of the sway so that there is some wheel movement allowed before the sway bar kicks in. Both are in greased bushings so they are not binding.
I'd sure like to know what your bumper situation is.
W.
Flynhi I put heim jointed end links on my rear bar a few years back,and the freedom of movement afforded by the heim joints,actully softened the effect of the sway bar (more then I liked) switched to poly end links with springs and it stiffened it back up again. I am now going to try heim jointed end links on the front with a 1" bar.
Seems like heim joints would remove any binding but would immediately engage the sway bar without the compression of rubber or springs in the end links.....
Seems like heim joints would remove any binding but would immediately engage the sway bar without the compression of rubber or springs in the end links.....
Years ago before Poly was popular, Addco sold nylon bushings for end links. They were ***** with holes drilled in them, they had absolutely no give. Anyway with those bushings the car would feel like it had really huge sway bars on it. When you would inspect the end links they would be bent. I believe they were inducing localized bending in the sway bar making it feel like it was much larger then it was. Not a good thing, better to eliminate the binding and go with a larger sway bar if thats what you want. Any way I beleive that heim joints are the way to go here, I plan on a redesign of my rear bar to allow for wider tires with my offset trailing arms, and I will be using heim joints for the end links.
Hi Jimmy,
Sounds like your sway bar was binding in the bushings causing it to feel like a stiffer bar. This may hae contibuted to your bent end links. The heim joints are so much stronger than other end links that they would not allow the bushings to bind making your side feel softer.
Make sense to you?
I wonder if the F transverse spring was made to work w/rear? The rear is designed to work w/o sway bar. Would this make up for smaller bars?
Time for George and Norvall to chime in. JMHO
Taijutsu,
I have read that the composite springs do have some crosstalk. In other words, what happens on one wheel does affect the other.
I reduced the size of my front sway bar from 1 1/8 to 1" with my transverse front spring and it seems well balanced. I changed bar sizes in an effort to soften the ride, not to offset the effect of any front spring crosstalk.
The base engine, base suspension C3s were designed to drive well with no rear bar. Small block gymkhana suspension and big block had small rear sway bars.
Some on this forum have removed the rear bar when using VBP's dual mount rear composite spring with good results.
I have a single mount TRW rear composite spring and I use a 5'8" rear bar with good results. For docile street driving, I think it would be fine without a rear bar but for more aggressive driving, a small rear bar should be added.
Looked under the front of mine today to check out the bump stops. I didn't have time to get a clearance measurement, but here's some info. Rubber bumper is stock height and is contacting the frame at times; however, instead of cutting the bump stop down, I drilled a 5/8" hole thru it to soften it up a bit (I totally forgot about this .... old age is creaping up on me ).
Another interesting thing to note is that the bump stop is not in the stock location. I worked on setting this up all weekend, first I cut the stock bump stops down to 1/2" of rubber like V.I.P. suggests. This is way to short. With my custom nose, the tire comes into contact with the back of my headlights. So I mythodically cut the new one a little at a time and tested travel with the spring removed. finally got to 1-9/16" of rubber, and it was cut to much, I used a rubber body work sqeagee as a spacer. Also I'm going to try the springs on the stiffer settings to limit suspension travel. This combined with a small (1") sway-bar with heim joint end links I hope will work. Remember each wheel moves independently and sway bars effectively increase spring rate when not in a curve.
I would like to see someone w/QA1s shocks. The entry level shock has 12 adj. That would give some options for the adj spring. I'm thinking that way for myself. If I spend that much money, I want the big bang for the buck!
Just wanted to let everyone know, we will now be selling the QA1 single and double adjustable shocks. Our first order has been placed and on it's way shortly. We are working out the final pricing so I didn't formally announce it yet.
Give us about a week or so and I will let everyone know. If you have any questions, please shoot me an email or call.
According to Gary at VBP, you should have from 1.5 to 2" of clearance between the top of the rubber bumper on the lower control arm and the frame above. Cut down the bumper if necessary to achieve this.
This will provide enough wheel travel to allow the shock to rebound before the control arm hits the bumper.
I have done this and it improved my ride quality quite a bit......
I checked the travel on both sides of the car with the spring out, turning the wheels and adjusting the stops to where the tire hit inside the inner fender. I wound up with a stock size bumper on the drivers side and very small trim say 1/4" on the passenger side. I then checked suspension travel from ride height to the stop, and I got 2 1/2" of travel. Was at the Auto Show in NY and stopped to talk to Chuck Mallet. He is selling Solsitice's with LS2 's shoe horned in them, claims they out perform/handle the C5/6. Anyway I looked at the tire to inner fender clearance and it was only abot 1 1/2". I asked Chuck about our dillema,He had nothing but good things to say about VBP's set up and said 2 1/2" was plenty, he often has only 1 1/2" from ride height. Probobly depends on the spring setting.